Running very rich when i give half trottle or more and in vtech i am a dully
I bougth my 98 prelude about 6 months ago. It was leaving my bumper black. I toke it to a friend of mine that is a mechanic at a honda dealership here in Miami and told me that we had to rebuild the engine. We did, and put oem honda parts. pistons, rods, bored over 20mm valves etc. I got the car back and drove it about 200 miles and the check engine light came on. I stoped and checked the oil and the dip stick was almost dry. I toke it to a friend of my dad that is a ase teacher. He saw that the fuel pressure was at 51 psi instead of 31 because of a bad fuel pressure regulator and changed the first o2 censor just in case. The car ran a little better but the problem of running rich and buring 1 Quart of oil every 150 miles stayed. Also on the master tech computer it shows that my car goes into open loop at 65% engine load .Is that normal?
Modified by david1686 at 2:44 PM 11/7/2005
Modified by david1686 at 2:45 PM 11/7/2005
Modified by david1686 at 2:44 PM 11/7/2005
Modified by david1686 at 2:45 PM 11/7/2005
Was your spell check broken or something when you wrote that post?
edit... its VTEC. im going to assume thats a typo and not that you thought is was spelled that way even though it say VTEC on your valve cover(which is kindof hard to miss if you are working on your car).
Modified by CliffBurton at 3:10 PM 11/5/2005
edit... its VTEC. im going to assume thats a typo and not that you thought is was spelled that way even though it say VTEC on your valve cover(which is kindof hard to miss if you are working on your car).
Modified by CliffBurton at 3:10 PM 11/5/2005
first - all preludes have smoke coming from the exhaust because they run rich, which usually builds up on the bumper. i had this problem, so i bought a VAFC to try and decrease the fuel levels, and it worked to some degree. but i have not cured the problem fully.
second - if you are going through oil that fast, you probably have a bad/leaking gasket. look everywhere on your motor for signs of leaking oil. the motor should be clean, since you just rebuilt it, so any oil should stand out. find the bad gasket and replace it. tell us what you find.
third - if you "toke it to a friend that is a mechanic at a honda dealership here in Miami" and he said you had to rebuild the engine because of the black smoke, he's dumb. don't go back to him...ever.
second - if you are going through oil that fast, you probably have a bad/leaking gasket. look everywhere on your motor for signs of leaking oil. the motor should be clean, since you just rebuilt it, so any oil should stand out. find the bad gasket and replace it. tell us what you find.
third - if you "toke it to a friend that is a mechanic at a honda dealership here in Miami" and he said you had to rebuild the engine because of the black smoke, he's dumb. don't go back to him...ever.
where can i prove that .. the car smokes alot more then other preludes. and the oil seems to be mixing with my gas or something because the rings never properly sealed because the car ran so rich
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by david1686 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i mean is where can i get some hard info on the 51 psi thing.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
go buy a helms for your car if you want proof. 31 psi is too low for any h22 lude though. the 4th gens used a diff type of injector (345 cc), and require 40-45 psi. The 5th gens have smaller injectors and no resistor box, and run about 5-10 psi higher fuel pressure.
go buy a helms for your car if you want proof. 31 psi is too low for any h22 lude though. the 4th gens used a diff type of injector (345 cc), and require 40-45 psi. The 5th gens have smaller injectors and no resistor box, and run about 5-10 psi higher fuel pressure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigz187 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've never heard of the piston rings not seating correctly b/c of the car running too rich.....anyone else
????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
never heard of it either. what seems crazy to me is that he claims to burn a quart of oil in 150 miles. I would be a hell of a lot more worried about oil consumption than fuel consumption right now.
????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>never heard of it either. what seems crazy to me is that he claims to burn a quart of oil in 150 miles. I would be a hell of a lot more worried about oil consumption than fuel consumption right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would be a hell of a lot more worried about oil consumption than fuel consumption right now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
me too! i'm tellin you, CHECK YOUR GASKETS! i think that a gasket didn't seal right or something, causing to to leak oil into your cylinders, causing a **** load of smoke. after you fix the oil burning, get a helms and look up the correct psi. did your friend actually change the regulator and the psi?
me too! i'm tellin you, CHECK YOUR GASKETS! i think that a gasket didn't seal right or something, causing to to leak oil into your cylinders, causing a **** load of smoke. after you fix the oil burning, get a helms and look up the correct psi. did your friend actually change the regulator and the psi?
what i ment was that the excess fuel is diluting the oil and buring it with the gas somehow ... what gaskets can it be? could it be the valve seals? or no because it doesnt smoke at idle at all ..
How Is Everyone Doing Tonight I Am New To This Site
I Own A 1998 Honda Prelude 5spd H22A4 VTEC Recently I Put In Crower Stage II Street /Strip Cams, Dual Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers, Cam Gears, And All New Belts And A Water Pump And Tensioner. It's Been An Awesome Upgrade However Recently I Have Been Encountering The Same Problems As The Guy Above, I Had Burned About A Quart In about 450 Miles. I Could Feel How Rich The Car Was Running It Just Was Not As Snappy As Before. I Am The Process Of Installing My RMF Header And Custom Exhaust But Fear It May Run Even Richer. My Dilema Is... The Car Has 110,000 Miles On It, Its A Daily Driver(as Well As The Solo Driver) I Hit VTEC Quite A Lot, So I Need A New Clutch It's Been Running Rich For A While Now So I Fear The Piston Rings May Have Been Washed One Too Many Times And Started To Crach I,ve Taken The Car To 150 Before So It Probablly Needs New Bearings, However Now Were Looking At About $5000 And At Least 2 Weeks Down Time But Once You Do Anything To The Bottom End It's All Labor Unless You Have All The Partts Already Which Is$$$. Is There Anything I Can Do Besides Tuning Before And After Or Spending A **** Load Of $$$ At Once.
Thanks,
Sleeping98
I Own A 1998 Honda Prelude 5spd H22A4 VTEC Recently I Put In Crower Stage II Street /Strip Cams, Dual Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers, Cam Gears, And All New Belts And A Water Pump And Tensioner. It's Been An Awesome Upgrade However Recently I Have Been Encountering The Same Problems As The Guy Above, I Had Burned About A Quart In about 450 Miles. I Could Feel How Rich The Car Was Running It Just Was Not As Snappy As Before. I Am The Process Of Installing My RMF Header And Custom Exhaust But Fear It May Run Even Richer. My Dilema Is... The Car Has 110,000 Miles On It, Its A Daily Driver(as Well As The Solo Driver) I Hit VTEC Quite A Lot, So I Need A New Clutch It's Been Running Rich For A While Now So I Fear The Piston Rings May Have Been Washed One Too Many Times And Started To Crach I,ve Taken The Car To 150 Before So It Probablly Needs New Bearings, However Now Were Looking At About $5000 And At Least 2 Weeks Down Time But Once You Do Anything To The Bottom End It's All Labor Unless You Have All The Partts Already Which Is$$$. Is There Anything I Can Do Besides Tuning Before And After Or Spending A **** Load Of $$$ At Once.
Thanks,
Sleeping98
How Is Everyone Doing Tonight I Am New To This Site
I Own A 1998 Honda Prelude 5spd H22A4 VTEC Recently I Put In Crower Stage II Street /Strip Cams, Dual Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers, Cam Gears, And All New Belts And A Water Pump And Tensioner. It's Been An Awesome Upgrade However Recently I Have Been Encountering The Same Problems As The Guy Above, I Had Burned About A Quart In about 450 Miles. I Could Feel How Rich The Car Was Running It Just Was Not As Snappy As Before. I Am The Process Of Installing My RMF Header And Custom Exhaust But Fear It May Run Even Richer With More Air Flow. The Computer Is Already Drastically Overcompensating And Dumping Fuel In My Dilema Is... The Car Has 110kmi. On It, Its A Daily Driver(as Well As The Solo Driver) I Hit VTEC Quite A Lot, So I Need A New Clutch It's Been Running Rich For A While Now So I Fear The Piston Rings May Have Been Washed by Now And Started To Crack, I Probablly Need New Bearings And Rods & While I'm Down There, But Then Why Not Light Weight? However Now Were Looking At About $5000 With Lightining And Rebalancing The Crank And At Least 2 Weeks Down Time. But Once You Do Anything To The Bottom End It's All Labor Unless You Do It All And I Can't Settle For Less Than Perfect Which Is$$$. Is There Anything I Can Do Besides A Lot Of Tuning Before And After And During The Process, Or Spending A **** Load Of $$$ All At Once.
Thanks,
Sleeping98
I Own A 1998 Honda Prelude 5spd H22A4 VTEC Recently I Put In Crower Stage II Street /Strip Cams, Dual Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers, Cam Gears, And All New Belts And A Water Pump And Tensioner. It's Been An Awesome Upgrade However Recently I Have Been Encountering The Same Problems As The Guy Above, I Had Burned About A Quart In about 450 Miles. I Could Feel How Rich The Car Was Running It Just Was Not As Snappy As Before. I Am The Process Of Installing My RMF Header And Custom Exhaust But Fear It May Run Even Richer With More Air Flow. The Computer Is Already Drastically Overcompensating And Dumping Fuel In My Dilema Is... The Car Has 110kmi. On It, Its A Daily Driver(as Well As The Solo Driver) I Hit VTEC Quite A Lot, So I Need A New Clutch It's Been Running Rich For A While Now So I Fear The Piston Rings May Have Been Washed by Now And Started To Crack, I Probablly Need New Bearings And Rods & While I'm Down There, But Then Why Not Light Weight? However Now Were Looking At About $5000 With Lightining And Rebalancing The Crank And At Least 2 Weeks Down Time. But Once You Do Anything To The Bottom End It's All Labor Unless You Do It All And I Can't Settle For Less Than Perfect Which Is$$$. Is There Anything I Can Do Besides A Lot Of Tuning Before And After And During The Process, Or Spending A **** Load Of $$$ All At Once.
Thanks,
Sleeping98
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigz187 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've never heard of the piston rings not seating correctly b/c of the car running too rich.....anyone else
????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is called washing the rings out.if it was running overly rich during break in the rings may never seat right.
to the original poster:
do a compression test, if the results are low you may have to re-ring.
????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>that is called washing the rings out.if it was running overly rich during break in the rings may never seat right.
to the original poster:
do a compression test, if the results are low you may have to re-ring.
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