I am trying to replace a burnt valve on my d16a6. I've got the cam out and I am ready to pull the valves and seals.

What valve spring compressor should I get? Are these rentable (in San Diego)?

Do I need a tool to remove the seals? My Helm's shows special tools, but do I really need them? If I do, are they expensive and/or rentable?

Thanks!

-S

 

I have asked alot of people on this, and even though we do alot of engine work, they still said take it to a shop and just pony up the $40 or whatever it costs and bring them the head to get it done, evidently because it was a total pain in the ***.

 

So, I would just bring the head and new valves / seals to a machine shop, and they'll do it? Seems like 40 bucks is cheap, what would I get done for that?

Anyone know a good machine shop near Pacific Beach, San Diego?

 

I have a Snap On vavle remover. It is very nice but its very expansive. I am also here in San Diego. So if you cant figure it out let me know. Glad to help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shbrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, I would just bring the head and new valves / seals to a machine shop, and they'll do it? Seems like 40 bucks is cheap, what would I get done for that?

Anyone know a good machine shop near Pacific Beach, San Diego?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't quote me for prices, because I'm not exactly sure, but ask the shop themselves. I believe $40 gets 1 valve. Not too sure.

 

To remove valve from head:

Get a 12 or 14 mm socket and an extension. Place the socket with the extension over the retainer an give it a good hit with a hammer. Get the keepers and put them in a ziploc bag and DON"T LOSE THEM. They are like $2.60 each from honda. The valve should now slide out as well as the spring.

To remove valve seal:

your going to need some pliers...and some needel nose pliers. Get a good grip on the valve seal with the pliers and try to break the seal by moving it up and down, left and right, clockwise and counterclockwise. Takes a bit of mucsel but they will come off.

To install valve seal:

get some ultra grey. Put a bit of ultra grey inside the valve seal and place it over the valve guide. I used a big flat head screw driver I had lying around. It had a soft plastic handle that seemed to fit just fine in the deminsions of the head. Use the plastic handle side and place it on the valve seal. On the other end of the screw driver, get a hammer and GENTLY tap the seal into place. You will know when it is on all the way. Make sure it goes on straight. Take your time doing this cause if u mess up you gotta pull the head off again....unless ur a baller and got the snap on vavle spring compressor.

To instal valve springs: ThE sUpEr GhETtO wAy!!!!

Tools:
old rag or Tshirt
vasaline
A deep 19mm, or 20mm or 21mm (whatever one fits around the retainer but is not bigger than the retainer)
a bunch of paper towles

Ok guys this will work all the way up to Type R dual valve springs....maybe after market stuff if your strong enough.

1) first place the head on a soft towle as it would sit on the motor.

2) put the valve in position in the head, and place the valvespring and retainer in position as well.

3) Ball up the old tshirt or rag and place it underneath the valve in the combustion chamber. Make sure it is balled up tight enough so that the vavle won't fall when pressure is applied to it.

4) Put some vasaline in the center of the retainer (this is to keep the keepers in place while you work)

5) Put the keepers in their spot inside the retainer.

6) Get one sheet of the paper towles and place it between the retianer and the deep socket 19mm ur about to use. (the reason you do this is so when you push down on the assymbaly the vavle comes up through the retainer and actually punctures the paper towle allowing the vavle to go through but pushing the keepers into place, the vasiline helps the keepers stay inplace while all this is going on).

7) Get the 19mm and a big *** handfull of papertowles. Ball up the paper towles and use them as a cushion for your hand, then press down with the 19mm hard and see if you can feel the keepers fall into place. It takes a few tries to get it down just right, but it works. Sometimes only one keeper will catch and sometimes they just dont' seem to wanna fall in place...but keep at it and you will succed. And dont' be mister macho and not use the paper towles cause after 16 valves ur gonna be crying.

And thats the ghetto vavle spring removal/installation method

 

Thanks Whiteness. I pulled off the burnt valve using your hints. I am amazed it worked! Now to order a new valve and see if I can get it back in...

 

I am looking at buy that snap on tool... is it the one with the bar and the braces for leverage? It is like $130 new right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CustomVW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking at buy that snap on tool... is it the one with the bar and the braces for leverage? It is like $130 new right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

got mine off the snap on truck for $60 cash you just gotta KNOW them. every 2 weeks he comes around.

 

I basically did the same thing.
The socket to remove the keepers works very well.
Just make sure the head is not on the car or the keepers can fall down the oil passage.
I guess you already have the head off since you are removing the valves.
I used a socket and extension to put the keepers back in as well.
That was a little harder. Most times I was only able to get one keeper in and then I would line the second one up and compress the spring with the extension.
At the same time I would push on the keeper with my finger until it dropped in place.
Then I pushed lightly with the socket to make sure they were seated.

Not that hard and free. Good luck

 

i am going to be doing the valve seals with the head still on the car....
so i want to buy the right tools to make simple as i will be doing this on 2 crxs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hughesl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I basically did the same thing.
The socket to remove the keepers works very well.
Just make sure the head is not on the car or the keepers can fall down the oil passage.
I guess you already have the head off since you are removing the valves.
I used a socket and extension to put the keepers back in as well.
That was a little harder. Most times I was only able to get one keeper in and then I would line the second one up and compress the spring with the extension.
At the same time I would push on the keeper with my finger until it dropped in place.
Then I pushed lightly with the socket to make sure they were seated.

Not that hard and free. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CustomVW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To instal valve springs: ThE sUpEr GhETtO wAy!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
got buy the tool
this is what it looks like and heres the way we did it

 

I got all the valves out... Now for the stem seals, these seem to be a bitch. Any advice? I tried to pull them out, but ripped a couple trying.

 

There is a barb on the head.
Most likely they will all tear.
Just make sure you clean the pieces off before you put the new ones on.

 

im gonna be trying this tool out

http://www.toyotool.com/