DART 2.1L talldeck update (11.01.2005)
It came back from Jim Justice and Don Flores is continuing the build.
Here's a pic of the new giRdle (thanks to VtecKiDD for snapping the pic):

Now I just need to buy a head for the 84.5 monster.....
If you're wondering wtf is going on, here are the pertinent threads:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1292880
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1282274
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1331163
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1359014
Here's a pic of the new giRdle (thanks to VtecKiDD for snapping the pic):

Now I just need to buy a head for the 84.5 monster.....
If you're wondering wtf is going on, here are the pertinent threads:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1292880
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1282274
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1331163
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1359014
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a little heads up...a friend of mine recently ruined his DART block setup by revving too high while the motor was still cold. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm assuming he had forged pistons? That could've been partly responsible.
I'm assuming he had forged pistons? That could've been partly responsible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming he had forged pistons? That could've been partly responsible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please explain why.
And just for the record, "most" people know you're not supposed to "beat" on a cold motor.
Please explain why.
And just for the record, "most" people know you're not supposed to "beat" on a cold motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And just for the record, "most" people know you're not supposed to "beat" on a cold motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really... i thought it would warm up quicker that way
<---very much kidding!
And just for the record, "most" people know you're not supposed to "beat" on a cold motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Really... i thought it would warm up quicker that way
<---very much kidding!
Excess piston slap = excessive cylinder wall wear? I know cold forged pistons can cause problems, but I sure don't know enough about them to know the details of what exactly those problems are beyond excessive wear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really... i thought it would warm up quicker that way
<---very much kidding!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had this girl in my science class who claimed that during winter when she hopped in her car (chicago winter), she would start it, leave it in park, and keep the gas floored until her heat started to warm up the car... you'd be amazed by the stupidity of some people.
sweet setup by the way
<---very much kidding!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had this girl in my science class who claimed that during winter when she hopped in her car (chicago winter), she would start it, leave it in park, and keep the gas floored until her heat started to warm up the car... you'd be amazed by the stupidity of some people.
sweet setup by the way
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Listen to a engine with forged pistons on cold startup.
Now compare the sound once it is warmed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All that I hear is loud *** exhaust with extremely loud valve ticking. Does it warm and cold.
Now compare the sound once it is warmed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All that I hear is loud *** exhaust with extremely loud valve ticking. Does it warm and cold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All that I hear is loud *** exhaust with extremely loud valve ticking. Does it warm and cold.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take those cams out and put a stock manifold back on, then try again.
All that I hear is loud *** exhaust with extremely loud valve ticking. Does it warm and cold.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Take those cams out and put a stock manifold back on, then try again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please explain why.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The clearances are looser on forged pistons. Something about silicon content and how much they expand compared to cast pistons.
So, with higher silicon content they expand more with heat.... which means some (my) motor was built on the loose end of tolerance to keep the piston from seizing in the cylinder when it's hot.
Pistons go slap, cylinder walls go ouch.
BUT besides that--- maybe back to Ed's original question-- what actually happened to that block when revving it cold?
-Chris
The clearances are looser on forged pistons. Something about silicon content and how much they expand compared to cast pistons.
So, with higher silicon content they expand more with heat.... which means some (my) motor was built on the loose end of tolerance to keep the piston from seizing in the cylinder when it's hot.
Pistons go slap, cylinder walls go ouch.
BUT besides that--- maybe back to Ed's original question-- what actually happened to that block when revving it cold?
-Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really... i thought it would warm up quicker that way
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Especially in the winter! That's how I warm up the duRango... 7 year 70K mile warranty.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Especially in the winter! That's how I warm up the duRango... 7 year 70K mile warranty.
I'm not positive, but I would think no. I purposefully disconnected my oil cooler for the winter, because it was taking a long time for the oil to get up to temp after it started getting colder outside. I'd imagine the same principle would be the case for the stock oil cooler thingy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The water by a long shot, and I have a ginormous radiator.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, we've gone a long way OT.....!
On a side note - a friend of mine had a fluidyne radiator and a low temp thermostat... his car would rarely get up to temp as it stayed too cool... it could get sort of warm idling, but then when he got on the hwy, the temp would dip back down to C from the air blowing over the radiator... So he got a piece of cardboard and kept it covering 1/2 of his radiator during the winter to reduce the cooling effects.....
RTW, your friend's issue could've been the fact that the DART blocks seem to never be right... They always need a lot of cleanup and prep work - hell this one had the sleeves drop!
And I suspect that some of the issues that dropspeed experienced were due to the mains not being in alignment from the mfr initially.....
wow, we've gone a long way OT.....!
On a side note - a friend of mine had a fluidyne radiator and a low temp thermostat... his car would rarely get up to temp as it stayed too cool... it could get sort of warm idling, but then when he got on the hwy, the temp would dip back down to C from the air blowing over the radiator... So he got a piece of cardboard and kept it covering 1/2 of his radiator during the winter to reduce the cooling effects.....
RTW, your friend's issue could've been the fact that the DART blocks seem to never be right... They always need a lot of cleanup and prep work - hell this one had the sleeves drop!
And I suspect that some of the issues that dropspeed experienced were due to the mains not being in alignment from the mfr initially.....




