GC spring rates, my setup, will this work?
I've got a stripped out 93 cx. It's pretty light, has dash and most daily driver functions still but sound deadening, rear interior, and any little parts are now gone.
The car has a 6 point weld in cage.
The engine is going to be k24a2 with 6 speed transmission. I'm hoping to be under 2050lbs with the k series engine.
I plan on running ground control coils with koni yellows.
I have a chance to pick up some brand new ground controls with 800front, 650 rear rates.
Considering the k24 only weighs 10-15lbs more than your average b series swap, do you guys think that those spring rates would be ideal?
The car will be used for road racing, and occasional auto-x with falken azenis tires, not slicks or race compound at this time
The car has a 6 point weld in cage.
The engine is going to be k24a2 with 6 speed transmission. I'm hoping to be under 2050lbs with the k series engine.
I plan on running ground control coils with koni yellows.
I have a chance to pick up some brand new ground controls with 800front, 650 rear rates.
Considering the k24 only weighs 10-15lbs more than your average b series swap, do you guys think that those spring rates would be ideal?
The car will be used for road racing, and occasional auto-x with falken azenis tires, not slicks or race compound at this time
if the motor weight difference is so negligable why go with such high front spring rates? the 2 best handlnig hondas i know run heavier rear springs to keep the undetsteer at bay. on my DA with your average b series ill be running 600front 650rear. little oversteer heavy but great for my autoX
I was thinking they might be a little stiff as well. Just want your opinions. I can get a killer deal on them so thats why I asked. If its not the right rates I won't get them and just buy new ones with the correct rates.
the car is somewhat daily driven in summer, but parked winter months
Modified by bambbrose at 7:35 AM 11/1/2005
the car is somewhat daily driven in summer, but parked winter months
Modified by bambbrose at 7:35 AM 11/1/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffhaut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the motor weight difference is so negligable why go with such high front spring rates? the 2 best handlnig hondas i know run heavier rear springs to keep the undetsteer at bay</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spring rate isnt everything in setup
Spring rate isnt everything in setup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambbrose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking they might be a little stiff as well. Just want your opinions. I can get a killer deal on them so thats why I asked. If its not the right rates I won't get them and just buy new ones with the correct rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could always buy them, sell the 800's and buy some lower rates. If the deal is that good it could be worth it. I don't think you'd have too much trouble getting rid of the 800's
you could always buy them, sell the 800's and buy some lower rates. If the deal is that good it could be worth it. I don't think you'd have too much trouble getting rid of the 800's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Spring rate isnt everything in setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are a few VERY FAST guys running heavier front rates than rear rates. Get a heavy rear sway bar and dial out some rear camber and you will be very happy with the balance.
Spring rate isnt everything in setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are a few VERY FAST guys running heavier front rates than rear rates. Get a heavy rear sway bar and dial out some rear camber and you will be very happy with the balance.
awesome thanks for the replys guys. I think I might go ahead an pick them up.
They are designed specifically for the koni shocks.
I was wondering, do I need custom valved konis with the stiffer springs?
They are designed specifically for the koni shocks.
I was wondering, do I need custom valved konis with the stiffer springs?
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I wonder if you are going to exceed the capacity of the OTC Konis with those spring rates. CRX Lee could comment on that. At least that is why I went with 450 fr. and 550 rear. It sounds like you are going to "track" the car. Saying you are going to "road race" when you are going to track your car in a untimed, "non-competitve" event is not correct. Just a suggestion.
I would want to make sure you are not going to blow out your shocks prematurely with those spring rates because if you do then that purschase will no longer be a "bargain". I would buy what you need and not base it on the cheapest set up. Good handling is worth a lot.
Barry H.
I would want to make sure you are not going to blow out your shocks prematurely with those spring rates because if you do then that purschase will no longer be a "bargain". I would buy what you need and not base it on the cheapest set up. Good handling is worth a lot.
Barry H.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by apexinghonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if you are going to exceed the capacity of the OTC Konis with those spring rates. CRX Lee could comment on that. At least that is why I went with 450 fr. and 550 rear. It sounds like you are going to "track" the car. Saying you are going to "road race" when you are going to track your car in a untimed, "non-competitve" event is not correct. Just a suggestion.
I would want to make sure you are not going to blow out your shocks prematurely with those spring rates because if you do then that purschase will no longer be a "bargain". I would buy what you need and not base it on the cheapest set up. Good handling is worth a lot.
Barry H. </TD></TR></TABLE>
very good point. Thanks for your input.
The car will be tracked as you say. I guess I shouldn't say road race as I won't be doing anything wheel to wheel at this time.
It will be primarily used on our Wendover 1.2mile track, and the new Utah 4.2mile full race course.
I would want to make sure you are not going to blow out your shocks prematurely with those spring rates because if you do then that purschase will no longer be a "bargain". I would buy what you need and not base it on the cheapest set up. Good handling is worth a lot.
Barry H. </TD></TR></TABLE>
very good point. Thanks for your input.
The car will be tracked as you say. I guess I shouldn't say road race as I won't be doing anything wheel to wheel at this time.
It will be primarily used on our Wendover 1.2mile track, and the new Utah 4.2mile full race course.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GChambers »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There are a few VERY FAST guys running heavier front rates than rear rates. Get a heavy rear sway bar and dial out some rear camber and you will be very happy with the balance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not sure that I'm a fast guy, but that's what I'm running..
There are a few VERY FAST guys running heavier front rates than rear rates. Get a heavy rear sway bar and dial out some rear camber and you will be very happy with the balance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not sure that I'm a fast guy, but that's what I'm running..
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