Right now my car has an AEM CAI
Thinking about buying the T1R power cat back exhaust with the T1R Response Header 4-2-1....
Do I need to get the car tuned after?
What is needed to tune the car?
What type of Cat can i go with this setup?
Sorry for the all question but hey this is the Tech Forum Can't wait to hear and feel the difference.

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trellis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do I need to get the car tuned after? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really. But you can, and it may be a very worthwhile investment to get all the power out of your setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trellis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What is needed to tune the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can do a piggyback, like VAFC. Cheap, pretty effective, smoggable.

Or, you can do an OBD-1 conversion and "Chip" it. Hondata ($), Uberdata, Chrome, Neptune, etc. Find out what a tuner in your area likes to use. Careful if you care about emissions, make sure you can get your stock ECU back in.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trellis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What type of Cat can i go with this setup? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on how much you care about the environment, how much you care about passing emissions, and the length of your header/catback. If they're not ITR specific you may need a GSR cat or something. Otherwise you can have any exhaust shop fab up a custom high-flow cat setup.

 

Get a 2.5" high-flow cat from Dave @ SMSP.

You'll want cam gears, an adjustable FPR, and some sort of tuning device like a V-AFC 2 or Hondata.

Tuning isn't a necessity, but you'll save your cat (since you won't be dumping unspent fuel into the header and having it detonate on the cat brick) and make even more power. Those who properly tune are the ones who have the truly fast cars.

 

Tuning is worth it. Even for minor bolt ons. I am running a very simple setup and tuning was the best money I ever spent. Knowing that the motor is running a perfect a/f ratio and making smoothe power throughout feel like nothing else.

 

Don't Rs run really rich with I/H/E and no tuning?

 

Mine sure did after bolting on a Mugen intake and Hytech header/exhaust. Was running very rich up top, like 10-12:1 in VTEC. Engine made another 13whp peak with tuning, and even more midrange after adjusting the VTEC engagement so tuning is clearly worth it IMHO. This was done with a VAFC 2 btw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't Rs run really rich with I/H/E and no tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think R's run rich no matter what.

 

I have a aem CAI, spoon header, maga flow hi flow cat i think, and a apexi N1 exhaust on my R.. After reading some post i think i might look into tuning it if i can get 13 whp out of it. thanks guys

 

I highly recommend you look into a set of camgears & a chipped obd1 ecu solution so you can have your car tuned to its full potential.

I have tuned several jdm & usdm type-r motors & they usually produce a good amount of midrange & some top end power from tuning.

Here are 2 dyno sheets. As you can see the first itr motor was running a stock intake & header with a horrible exhaust setup.

 

Josh on Team-Integra got his I/H/C/E setup tuned and gained something ridiculous like 25whp. The pricey Hytech headers really mess with the A/F ratio so tuning is a must. Those headers are also designed to move your powerband to a different location so things like your VTEC crossover might need to be tweaked as well. Austin's ITR has VTEC crossover set at like 3500rpm or something like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stein &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't Rs run really rich with I/H/E and no tuning?</TD></TR></TABLE>

shoud be the other way around, you're not adding fuel by allowing more air to move through, if anything, you're be running more on the lean side. before/after tuning on I/H/E will bring no significant changes to show for, adding I/H/E to our cars doesn't really make a signifiant difference, unless you consider 10-12hp a significant gain on already underpowered motor.

 

10-12hp across the entire RPM range is significant (proof of a good power package). 10-12hp at redline (peak HP) doesn't make the car significantly faster. Tuning increases the area under the curve. More area under curve = faster car (yay for calculus).

 

why would you buy these bolts on if you did not intend to pull the max power outta them? I would tune it and you will be ALOT happier!
I am using a Hondata S200 set up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheGSRGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10-12hp across the entire RPM range is significant (proof of a good power package). 10-12hp at redline (peak HP) doesn't make the car significantly faster. Tuning increases the area under the curve. More area under curve = faster car (yay for calculus).</TD></TR></TABLE>

i guess, i've had 10-12hp gain, i could notice difference, but thats about it, car isn't goign to be faster with just 10-12hp gain across the band or redline.. very little difference in performance. why i stopped dropping money into minimal gains and went turbo, now thats a noticable gain that doesn't just feel faster but is a whole lot faster.