I have a 1992 prelude with a DOHC VTEC in it. I am wanting to put a full exhaust on it. I was hoping to get the Tanabe Super Medallion exhaust but they don't have one for a VTEC. Could anyone tell me a good exhaust for my car? take it eazy

 

apexi N1 is a pretty good quality product.

If you're going for a deeper cleaner sound I'd go with
the apexi WS (world sport) exhaust.

welcome to H-T

At the top of the forum you will see a thread called the Essential Prelude Links.

Check it out. There's a lot of info in there to keep you busy for a while.

 

In the event that your a quick reader here some more stuff to get you started:


http://www.accordinglydone.com...pp=20
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1174760&page=1
http://www.prospeedpower.com/

The right cams & valvetrain will go a long way to building torque higher in the powerband. The stock cam profiles are kind of bizarre in that the high-rpm profile seems to peak right at the VTEC crossover . . . . moving that peak on the hot cam up 1,000 rpms or so makes for a very enjoyable torque curve, as well as some extra room on top of the redline that lets you upgrade the gearing without having to shift too often.

Brands of camshafts for the H22 include Crower, Skunk2, & JUN. They tend to organize their cams in "stages" - some of which are roughly comparable to other manufacturer's stages (crower & JUN). Others are not (skunk2). Look to spend at least $800 for cams & valvetrain upgrades.

Cam selection is complicated on VTEC engines, because you have 2 separate profiles to play with at once - some manufacturers choose to leave the low-rpm cam stock while hopping up the big one, which if not tuned properly will leave an unfortunate hole in the middle of the powerband. A frustrating engine to drive.

And once you move into the realm of upgrading cams, you will need some sort of programmable fuel & ignition tuning to realize their benefits. Piggy-back tuners like the Apex'i V-AFC are okay at adjusting fuel curves for bolt-ons, but ignition tuning becomes a lot more critical when playing with cams.

On cams with more overlap than stock, increasing the compression ratio will also be necessary for them to make their power. 11:1 at a minimum, but 12:1 or even 12.5:1 would be better. With good ignition tuning, forged pistons, & aggressive cams, 12:1 static CR will be no problem on pump gas. With competent headwork & combustion chamber reshaping, a 13:1 is even feasible. Just don't expect to ever get away with putting 87 octane in . . . . .

For pistons & resleeving, labor costs become your biggest enemy. Even for an avid & capable DIY'er, the tools necessary to do that sort of work become more expensive than just sending it out. And machining obviously can't/shouldn't be done by a shadetree mechanic. The trick is finding someone you trust to do it.

Getting the block resleeved by someone like Golden Eagle is a fairly reasonable $850-900 expense - but you have to add in pulling the engine, stripping it down, & shipping it across the country. But they'll also do lower-end assembly, which is nice. So you can send out your bare block & whatever pistons & rods you choose, and a little while later get your entire bottom end back ready to put back in the car. And you can be assured that the hone procedure was done correctly, bearings were properly spec'd, etc.

As for boring it out, the absolute limit on the H22 is 91mm (up from 87mm), which brings the total displacement to 2,360 cc's. However, you won't find anyone who will recommend taking that much out of an engine with any designs of streetability - the cylinder wall thickness is so small head-gasket sealing becomes a serious issue. Even at 90mm people have had problems. So given an 89mm bore, we're looking at 2,257 cc's - just about .1 liters bigger than stock.

To reach a goal of 2.4 liters with a streetable bore, you'd need to look into a stroker - the H23 crank & rods would get you there (95mm vs. 90.7mm on the H22). But increasing the stroke isn't going to do anything in the way of improving revability or reliability. You'll have faster piston speeds, less dwell time at TDC, more side-loading on the cylinder walls, & you'll have to eliminate the oil squirters on the underside of the pistons to fit the bigger crank. The extra displacement sure is tempting, but I'm not a big fan of increasing the stroke on the H22, it's long enough as is.

Of course, once you bore out the engine, you're looking at more headwork . . . . With larger cylinders & their desire for more air, suddenly your head is no longer going to be able to keep up at the higher rpms. Big(ger) cams are a good first step. But intake manifold porting & headwork will see good benefits on a stock motor - so if the bore has been increased at all, the need will be even more. At a minimum, it's a good idea to port match the intake manifold & head, as well as deshrouding your combustion chambers (since they're now 2mm small than the block). For more serious headwork & valve jobs, I really like the Alaniz approach - http://www.alaniztechnologies.com. Other options with a good reputation are Portflow & DPR. Look to spend $1,000 to start, more if you're going for lightweight valves or anything like that.

Without a doubt, good headwork & cam selection will be the best thing you can do to build/maintain torque once you get past 6,000 rpms. Just be sure to complement the change in the powerband with more aggressive gearing, or all those horsepower gains are pointless.

there are also cam seals/vtec solenoid seal/valve cover gasket that oil can leak through on the back and burn up on the head or drip down the block and onto the header, cam seals suck....

Rear main seal

cam plug

once again check you cam seal its behind the distributor on the rear of the head....also i forgot it could be your distributor o-ring, same concept as the cam seal except it is an o-ring the goes around the cam to keep oil out from the distributors side...and the vtec spool assembly like others said. Changing all those will cost you about $20-25 and about 1hr - 1.5hr depending on how mechanically your inclined etc....good luck w/ the fix

balancing shaft seals.

Go to Kragen and ask them for a valve cover gasket replacement kit. That comes with all the washers....or simply ask them if you just can get the washers by them selves it shouldn't be that much..I think I paid around $20 when I replaced my Valve cover

balancer shaft seal.

Prostreetonline coupon code HT5D

im not sure about 5th gen, but its prolly the same as 4th gen. There are 2 rubber ***** on the inside of my trunk lid that can b screwed and unscrewed to given a certain amount of clearance between the weatherstripping and lid. When i had a leak in my trunk..all i did was screw these all the way in and it minimized the clearance and stopped the water. hope that helps...cause if not its your weatherstripping

taillight gaskets

well, I think I fixed it. The tube ends are found in the trunk right next to the tire wells. I had to take the lining of my trunk out. The tube ends are clamped to a naros opening which doesn't let dirt out so it plugs up. I trimed them to there was a bigger opening so if anymore dirt goes down it'll dump it. Thanks, JG, for the idea.

http://attackforums.com/showpo...unt=1

http://www.blacktrax.net

http://sms-products.com/Contact.html

http://www.kteller.com/store/

http://www.car-sound.com/catal....aspx

http://www.kteller.com/store/p...d/226

http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com/

http://www.sportcompactcarweb....viceg/

http://www.importpowerhouse.com

http://www.sparkracing.com/

http://importnut.net/STRseal.htm

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/

https://honda-tech.com

http://www.wdcr-scca.org/

http://solo.wdcr-scca.org/

http://www.carismaautotec.com

http://www.bandtmotorsports.com/

http://www.vapog.com/forums/

http://www.inlinefour.com/specials.html

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/s...10026

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1386450

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1046336

 

oh a lot of that text is off the attack forum

 

2.5" custom catback with high-flow cat.

 

got the same thing as 94...
if you don't want to custom do it though i'd go with the apexi ws2.

 

Guys, I think he is looking for a VTEC model exhaust since he has a 92 Si with an H22 in it.

If what I think you are saying is true, just because you have an H22 in your 92 Si, that does not mean you need to get a "VTEC" exhaust. You need to get one for an Si.

 

yes the apex n1 is a very good choice, but for mine i have a greddy exhaust. *two thumbs up*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If what I think you are saying is true, just because you have an H22 in your 92 Si, that does not mean you need to get a "VTEC" exhaust. You need to get one for an Si. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Um... no...? You would still want an Exhaust for a H22 VTec not the H23 Si...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLBZ521 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Um... no...? You would still want an Exhaust for a H22 VTec not the H23 Si...</TD></TR></TABLE>

What? Explain your reasoning.

This is going to be good. LOL

 

i disagree, since when does the cars type (S, SI, VTEC) change what performance parts you put on it. Isnt that when u look under the hood and see the type of engine you have? It dont make sense to have a h22 and get a h23 exhaust

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaVTEC1993 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i disagree, since when does the cars type (S, SI, VTEC) change what performance parts you put on it. Isnt that when u look under the hood and see the type of engine you have? It dont make sense to have a h22 and get a h23 exhaust</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love when people have no clue chime in with their $0.02.

If you knew what you were talking about, you would know that the cat. on the VTEC Prelude is longer than the Si. The ONLY difference between the cat-backs is the VTEC model is a little shorter in length to accomodate the longer cat. You would also know that the H22 and H23 headers are the same length. So, unless the creator of this thread got a VTEC length cat, he must be using the Si cat.....so that means he needs to get an Si cat-back to make everything fit properly.

How do I know this......because I swapped an H22 into my Si....and I did the SAME EXACT thing.

 

HA YOU'RE WRONG, he wouldnt want to put an H23 exhaust on it, because IF YOU KNEW what you were talking about then you would have read that hes looking for a FULL exhaust. He should get an H22 specific exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n8dogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HA YOU'RE WRONG, he wouldnt want to put an H23 exhaust on it, because IF YOU KNEW what you were talking about then you would have read that hes looking for a FULL exhaust. He should get an H22 specific exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
full exhuast? as in a header-back? do people make those? he should get an h23 exhuast unless he swapped an h22 cat on. or he can just go to a muffler shop and tell them to give him a 2.25" exhuast.

 

Ha Your all wrong, he just needs a Folgers can!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SteveoBA8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ha Your all wrong, he just needs a Folgers can!</TD></TR></TABLE>

best answer so far haha

 

Um... Ok, yeah AndyD, that does make sense.. But if I was going to get an aftermarket exhaust for a H22 then I would get a VTec H22 Exhaust, not a Si H23 exhaust. Now if he was rigging something up to just work for the time being, yeah, that would work.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ckyskater733 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
full exhuast? as in a header-back? do people make those? he should get an h23 exhuast unless he swapped an h22 cat on. or he can just go to a muffler shop and tell them to give him a 2.25" exhuast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I don't think they make those.. Looks like to me he wants a Cat Back Exhaust or something like that.


To give him a good answer we need more information on what he has.. What kind of header and what cat and exhaust he is using..
Once we know that we can give a better answer...

 

buy my 5zigen cat back. Basically the same as an N1.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1420397

 

i have a '93 VTEC and have 5Zigen cat-back and dc sports header. the cat-back is awesome. sounds deep and throaty, and badass in VTEC. i felt a nice gain. couldnt say as much about the header.