Camshafts wearing/noisy valvetrain
The setup: My valvetrain has always been pretty noisy. Setup is B16 head .5mm oversized ferrera valves, skunk2 valvetrain with over 40k miles. LMA are all working fine. Right now im using stock b16a cams.
The Problem:I went to do a valve adjustment and noticed the cams are wearing on the lobes pretty significantly, valve lash was somewhat tighter than it should be so I adjusted using the larger spec .007" .008" seemed to quiet it a little. (Used .006" .007" before on the looser side, also used the "coathanger" method and tightened my timing belt) Any ideas why my cams are wearing? My only guess is worn valvesprings, or I had the valvelash too tight, what do you guys think? Will my oversized valves or a port/polish increase injector clicking noise , or other valvetrain noise?
The Problem:I went to do a valve adjustment and noticed the cams are wearing on the lobes pretty significantly, valve lash was somewhat tighter than it should be so I adjusted using the larger spec .007" .008" seemed to quiet it a little. (Used .006" .007" before on the looser side, also used the "coathanger" method and tightened my timing belt) Any ideas why my cams are wearing? My only guess is worn valvesprings, or I had the valvelash too tight, what do you guys think? Will my oversized valves or a port/polish increase injector clicking noise , or other valvetrain noise?
I put on a old tensioner I had and the belt seems pretty loose now, but at least It shouldnt wear anymore. Can anyone tell me if this head is ruined or what?
possibly oil not getting to the camshafts.
how tight is tight on the valve lash because thats more than likly the problem.
one other thing that i have never seen but have heard of in internet land. is that the valve springs have to high of a spring rate for the stock cam and can damage the lobes.
how tight is tight on the valve lash because thats more than likly the problem.
one other thing that i have never seen but have heard of in internet land. is that the valve springs have to high of a spring rate for the stock cam and can damage the lobes.
Im pretty sure im getting oil unless my oil line is clogged. Would you recommend running the motor for like 5 secs with the braided line disconnected to see if oil is getting through?
Its hard to describe how tight the valve lash was set. When using the .006-.007" feeler gauges some of them were tighter than a "slight drag". When doing a correct valve adjustment you want to just barely feel drag on the feeler gauge correct?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chuji »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its hard to describe how tight the valve lash was set. When using the .006-.007" feeler gauges some of them were tighter than a "slight drag". When doing a correct valve adjustment you want to just barely feel drag on the feeler gauge correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, only a slight drag should be felt. If too tight, the clearance is .001 tighter than you measured.
Yes, only a slight drag should be felt. If too tight, the clearance is .001 tighter than you measured.
Got the valves adjusted correctly for sure this time, still ticking. The head is definately getting oil. The cam wear is not as bad as I thought and is only on 2-3 lobes not all of them. The ticking is still very loud 1-3k rpms, but at idle its fine. Could this be worn valvesprings?
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mr_magoo
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Aug 23, 2008 12:41 AM




