Valves or something else.
There is a recent "valve tickin" thread created, but it's not pertinent. Then general concensus there was a valve adjustment.
I'm racking my brain on this one... I've got a horindous noise from the head.
I've done the valve adjust several times, but no avail.
Results of the compression test shows consistent pressure through out.
I've change the weights of the oil around, but doesn't seem to effect the sound significantly.
I did the timing belt about a month ago, thought that had something to do with it (though the noise was there before hand). Well, thinking I made a mistake, I pulled off the timing belt and double checked. Basically re-doing the timing belt job.
I have no lose of performance. Nothing I can tell, that is. The noise is a little quieter, but still noise when the engine is warm.
With the stethoscope, I pinpoint the noise to the No. 1 exhaust valve area. I'm going to run the car without the PS belt just to cross that possibility out. Though steering hasn't been a problem.
Any suggestions? The noise sounds lick something is rattling loose, and not so much a clicking/ticking sound.
Thanks.
Edit:
Details on the car...
98 RS w/ 90K miles
turboed, obd I converted, Uberdata. If that is pertinent.
Modified by scartail at 8:33 PM 4/9/2007
I'm racking my brain on this one... I've got a horindous noise from the head.
I've done the valve adjust several times, but no avail.
Results of the compression test shows consistent pressure through out.
I've change the weights of the oil around, but doesn't seem to effect the sound significantly.
I did the timing belt about a month ago, thought that had something to do with it (though the noise was there before hand). Well, thinking I made a mistake, I pulled off the timing belt and double checked. Basically re-doing the timing belt job.
I have no lose of performance. Nothing I can tell, that is. The noise is a little quieter, but still noise when the engine is warm.
With the stethoscope, I pinpoint the noise to the No. 1 exhaust valve area. I'm going to run the car without the PS belt just to cross that possibility out. Though steering hasn't been a problem.
Any suggestions? The noise sounds lick something is rattling loose, and not so much a clicking/ticking sound.
Thanks.
Edit:
Details on the car...
98 RS w/ 90K miles
turboed, obd I converted, Uberdata. If that is pertinent.
Modified by scartail at 8:33 PM 4/9/2007
Bump for you
I have a 98 RS too and having the same type of ticking noise. Although mine is really loud when warming up and tends to go away when the engine is fully warmed up. Just got my valves adjusted and timing belt done. So im clueless to why it's ticking so damn loud... .
I have a 98 RS too and having the same type of ticking noise. Although mine is really loud when warming up and tends to go away when the engine is fully warmed up. Just got my valves adjusted and timing belt done. So im clueless to why it's ticking so damn loud... .
My 97 LS (180K) has what I think to be a permenate tick from the valve train. I have tried adjusting a few times as well. And it will just tick after a few hours. I believe I may have a bent valve since it has been a problem for so long.

I thought honda valve trains were loud, but my car sounds like a tractor.
I just took of the ps belt... Same thing...
Should I run looser valve clearances??? The noise is purely mechanical... I was thinking maybe the t-belt was slapping the cover... but there is no noise there...
What did you guys get for compression??? I got 130ish cold through out.
I'm pretty sure it's not the injectors. I have to check the side to side play. What would it mean if I have excessive play? Valve guides/seats?
I don't recall when the noise started. But it has been progressively getting worst. And everytime I do a valve adjustment, it seems to get worst.. haha or maybe I am paying attention to it more.
It's like a clanking sound. And sometimes it sound like a loose washer spinning on a shaft. I'll see if I can get an audio of it.
Again, I marvel how well the engine feels... I get smooth acceleration... and good power, from what I can fee that is.
I don't recall when the noise started. But it has been progressively getting worst. And everytime I do a valve adjustment, it seems to get worst.. haha or maybe I am paying attention to it more.
It's like a clanking sound. And sometimes it sound like a loose washer spinning on a shaft. I'll see if I can get an audio of it.
Again, I marvel how well the engine feels... I get smooth acceleration... and good power, from what I can fee that is.
i would recheck everything that is around or bolted around that area, since ur boosted check the exhaust sys bolts and nuts from the exh mani back to the "b" pipe. have you tried a leak down test?
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No I have done the leak down test yet... I misplaced the tool for it..
Will do it when I find it...
I check the manifold bolts and stuff... With the stethoscope, I pinpoint the majority of the noise to come from the No. 1 exhaust valve area...
Will do it when I find it...I check the manifold bolts and stuff... With the stethoscope, I pinpoint the majority of the noise to come from the No. 1 exhaust valve area...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure it's not the injectors. I have to check the side to side play. What would it mean if I have excessive play? Valve guides/seats?
I don't recall when the noise started. But it has been progressively getting worst. And everytime I do a valve adjustment, it seems to get worst.. haha or maybe I am paying attention to it more.
It's like a clanking sound. And sometimes it sound like a loose washer spinning on a shaft. I'll see if I can get an audio of it.
Again, I marvel how well the engine feels... I get smooth acceleration... and good power, from what I can fee that is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Excess play could simply indicate a bad rocker or rocker rail. When you adjust the valves, do the #1 exhaust valves typically need to be adjested more than the other valves?
I don't recall when the noise started. But it has been progressively getting worst. And everytime I do a valve adjustment, it seems to get worst.. haha or maybe I am paying attention to it more.
It's like a clanking sound. And sometimes it sound like a loose washer spinning on a shaft. I'll see if I can get an audio of it.
Again, I marvel how well the engine feels... I get smooth acceleration... and good power, from what I can fee that is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Excess play could simply indicate a bad rocker or rocker rail. When you adjust the valves, do the #1 exhaust valves typically need to be adjested more than the other valves?
Dogginator... No... I don't have to readjust the clearances for No. 1. Heck, I don't recall having to readjust any of them after the initial adjustment.
I'll check the time with a light tonight..
I had a co-worker listen to the sound a minute ago (ford guy, though... I won't hold it against him)... He is thinking it is the water pump... I replace the pump when I did my timing belt... What are the chances of this? New OEM water pump. Swapped it out with the t-belt.
Modified by scartail at 4:22 PM 4/10/2007
I had a co-worker listen to the sound a minute ago (ford guy, though... I won't hold it against him)... He is thinking it is the water pump... I replace the pump when I did my timing belt... What are the chances of this? New OEM water pump. Swapped it out with the t-belt.
Modified by scartail at 4:22 PM 4/10/2007
What about a bad LMA (lost motion assembly) causing your vtec lobe to slap against the LMA.
Try and drive the car up to vtec and listen for the sound. It may be hard but if you can check it out.
The only reason we have LMA's is to keep the middle rocker quiet during non-vtec driving. If it is noisy I would try this. the thing that sucks is you will have to pull the rocker cam out. The LMA won't come out unless the rockers are out as well.
I tried putting the LMA in after I put in the rocker arm and had to take it back out.
This is the direction I would lean to.
Try and drive the car up to vtec and listen for the sound. It may be hard but if you can check it out.
The only reason we have LMA's is to keep the middle rocker quiet during non-vtec driving. If it is noisy I would try this. the thing that sucks is you will have to pull the rocker cam out. The LMA won't come out unless the rockers are out as well.
I tried putting the LMA in after I put in the rocker arm and had to take it back out.
This is the direction I would lean to.
the ticking is just the lifters clicking against the valve springs...my civic sohc non vtec did it my friends stock civic does it my integra gsr does it...its just how they were designed...if you cant hear it from the car it should be ok when you open the hood and hear it its normal...if its loud and annoying lol it might be a bigger problem...if there is no power loss then thould be fine and the reason why it does away when the engine warms up is because the oil gets thinner therfore causeing it to flow better in the tight spaces...its a hard call when you cant hear it for yourself...speaking for me and other people offering advice...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the response... but NO vtec here... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point. without vtec you might as well buy a nissan though.
No clue what you are hearing. valve springs weak. Maybe pull the head and check the valves?
Good luck.
Good point. without vtec you might as well buy a nissan though.
No clue what you are hearing. valve springs weak. Maybe pull the head and check the valves?
Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good point. without vtec you might as well buy a nissan though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just cold... Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MajorPayne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes an oil pump thats old will cause this bc it isnt providing enough pressure to get enough oil to the head
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oil pressure seems to be the same... I've got the gauge off the back of the block... How can I tell for sure?
Good point. without vtec you might as well buy a nissan though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just cold... Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MajorPayne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes an oil pump thats old will cause this bc it isnt providing enough pressure to get enough oil to the head
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oil pressure seems to be the same... I've got the gauge off the back of the block... How can I tell for sure?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oil pressure seems to be the same... I've got the gauge off the back of the block... How can I tell for sure?</TD></TR></TABLE>
there should be a port in the head
plug the one in the block and put the gauge in the head and see if it is close to the previous reading
Oil pressure seems to be the same... I've got the gauge off the back of the block... How can I tell for sure?</TD></TR></TABLE>
there should be a port in the head
plug the one in the block and put the gauge in the head and see if it is close to the previous reading
Took off the a/c belt, p/s belt, t/b cover... AND ran it... (valve cover on, of course...
)
How is the belts supposed to look running???? I see it floping around like ****... but... Installed it twice.. the way I interpreted the instructions..
Any help???
)How is the belts supposed to look running???? I see it floping around like ****... but... Installed it twice.. the way I interpreted the instructions..
Any help???
Yes.. helms...
line up the cam gears, and used drill bits at TDC... and the crank gear with the marking...
Push the belt on.. and then rotated the gear 3 teeth...
Should I pull on the tensioner to get more tension?
line up the cam gears, and used drill bits at TDC... and the crank gear with the marking...
Push the belt on.. and then rotated the gear 3 teeth...
Should I pull on the tensioner to get more tension?


