K20 swap Overall Height question.
Hello all!
I'm in the process of a B16a swap in to my 1973 Austin Mini. I built the custom front subframe around my B16a mock up motor (an old blown/demo'd B16), and am very interested in the K20 motor swap. I understand there are custom mounts etc available. But my issue is height. The B16a just barely fits under the bonnet/fenders. Does anyone know if the overall height of the K20, in for example, a civic, is taller then the B16a? Just eye balling the K20 it looks much taller.
Help!
I'm in the process of a B16a swap in to my 1973 Austin Mini. I built the custom front subframe around my B16a mock up motor (an old blown/demo'd B16), and am very interested in the K20 motor swap. I understand there are custom mounts etc available. But my issue is height. The B16a just barely fits under the bonnet/fenders. Does anyone know if the overall height of the K20, in for example, a civic, is taller then the B16a? Just eye balling the K20 it looks much taller.
Help!
Madman,
As for a height comparison between the k20 and the b16 I'm not sure. Below are pics of the k24 which is supposedly a little taller than the k20 but has a shorter oil pan. Hasport mounts are used and this is in an EG civic:





I know it's hard to tell but it's exactly 4'' clearance from the oil pan.
Now, since you're making your mounts I really dont' think you'll have clearance issues. Meaning, if you can fit a b16 in there fine, you'll be able to fit a k20/24 in there.
The other, more important factor you need to consider, especially since your mini's bay is smaller than an EG bay, is the placement of the motors.
For example, this is how a B swap sits in an EG:
Stock for a baseline:

A B swap:

And a K swap:

You can see that the K motor sits on the other side of the bay and is a few inches farther back towards the firewall.
(Interested in seeing your progress)
As for a height comparison between the k20 and the b16 I'm not sure. Below are pics of the k24 which is supposedly a little taller than the k20 but has a shorter oil pan. Hasport mounts are used and this is in an EG civic:





I know it's hard to tell but it's exactly 4'' clearance from the oil pan.
Now, since you're making your mounts I really dont' think you'll have clearance issues. Meaning, if you can fit a b16 in there fine, you'll be able to fit a k20/24 in there.
The other, more important factor you need to consider, especially since your mini's bay is smaller than an EG bay, is the placement of the motors.
For example, this is how a B swap sits in an EG:
Stock for a baseline:

A B swap:

And a K swap:

You can see that the K motor sits on the other side of the bay and is a few inches farther back towards the firewall.
(Interested in seeing your progress)
the k20 is definately taller. In a crx you are not able to shut the hood and you have to cut out material. just a heads up. check how much clearance you have with a b16. If you have less then say 2 inches you may run into some problems
thanks for the help gents. The mounts can be changed, but I don't really feel like modding the already powdercoated subframe
The placement may be even better for this project, the B16 means I have to use the larger right hand mounted brake booster/resevoir(thus having to making the car right hand drive, and yes it's just that easy to swap over the steering
) The left hand sitting K20 will give me loads of room to mount the booster/resevoir on the left side(thus making it LHD and easier to drive in Canada) Looks like I'll have to find someone with the swap already finished and do some measuring. Any other thoughts on problems I may encounter?
The placement may be even better for this project, the B16 means I have to use the larger right hand mounted brake booster/resevoir(thus having to making the car right hand drive, and yes it's just that easy to swap over the steering
) The left hand sitting K20 will give me loads of room to mount the booster/resevoir on the left side(thus making it LHD and easier to drive in Canada) Looks like I'll have to find someone with the swap already finished and do some measuring. Any other thoughts on problems I may encounter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mini madman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help gents. The mounts can be changed, but I don't really feel like modding the already powdercoated subframe
The placement may be even better for this project, the B16 means I have to use the larger right hand mounted brake booster/resevoir(thus having to making the car right hand drive, and yes it's just that easy to swap over the steering
) The left hand sitting K20 will give me loads of room to mount the booster/resevoir on the left side(thus making it LHD and easier to drive in Canada) Looks like I'll have to find someone with the swap already finished and do some measuring. Any other thoughts on problems I may encounter?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you need measurements, I'm your man.
Another problem would be your axle angle. Obviously you'll need custom length axles but just getting your height problem straightened out might make an axle angle problem. I dunno. Measurements first.
The placement may be even better for this project, the B16 means I have to use the larger right hand mounted brake booster/resevoir(thus having to making the car right hand drive, and yes it's just that easy to swap over the steering
) The left hand sitting K20 will give me loads of room to mount the booster/resevoir on the left side(thus making it LHD and easier to drive in Canada) Looks like I'll have to find someone with the swap already finished and do some measuring. Any other thoughts on problems I may encounter?</TD></TR></TABLE>If you need measurements, I'm your man.
Another problem would be your axle angle. Obviously you'll need custom length axles but just getting your height problem straightened out might make an axle angle problem. I dunno. Measurements first.
thanks for the offer Andy, I'll stay in touch. I already have to have some custom axles made to go from the honda tranny to the mini hubs, so length won't be an issue, but the angles may cause some serious stress on the hubs and U joints.I'm going to crawl under the next RSX I see
btw They call me mad man for a reason. If I can get this to work, I won't bother with a bonnet/ hood at all.....
btw They call me mad man for a reason. If I can get this to work, I won't bother with a bonnet/ hood at all.....
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mini madman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I can get this to work, I won't bother with a bonnet/ hood at all.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bad-*** if I do say-so myself.
I like your style madman, keep us up to date on your progress.
Oh and welcome to H-T.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Bad-*** if I do say-so myself.
I like your style madman, keep us up to date on your progress.
Oh and welcome to H-T.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mini madman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw They call me mad man for a reason. If I can get this to work, I won't bother with a bonnet/ hood at all.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, nice. Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, nice. Good luck
lo, thanks. I just priced out the K20 Type S. $4k for the motor, tranny, ECU and harness. I like the sounds of that! The engine distributer said it's only an inch and a half taller, but now I'm worried about the ground clearance since it sits so low! It may require a custom oil pan :S
Looks like I'm at my newbie post limit for the day, thanks for the help folks!
Looks like I'm at my newbie post limit for the day, thanks for the help folks!
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