Hello Everyone,
I have a 95' Honda Accord EX (F22B1 w/ VTEC) which I've been trying to rebuild over the past year. I had to pull the motor a month or so ago due to electrical problems in the engine bay. That made it the 3rd time that I've had to pull the engine, so I decided that I'm not putting it back in until it's turboed. I plan on getting the block re-sleeved (Darton, Golden Eagle, or AEBS) and bored out to 87-89mm, from the stock 85mm. Do think it would be beneficial to do so? More displacement = more torque, I believe that's how it goes. The f22's came with cast iron sleeves already in them, so if boring the engine out a few mm's isn't going to do much, I'd rather save the money and put it toward other stuff to be done to the engine. If I do bore the block out to 87-89mm, what needs to be done to the head in order to have it match the bore size of the block (since the head was designed for an 85mm bore)? Thank you for taking time to read this ... any help / advice / suggestions is greatly appreciated.

John

 

so you're getting it re-sleeved or you're boring out the stock sleeves? not sure from your post.

anyhow you shouldn't have to do anything to the head, however you'll need a bigger bore head gasket and I'm not sure if anyone makes them for our lowly F-series.

if you're getting it re-sleeved, stick with stock bore IMO. then in case anything happens you can just bore it out 0.5-1mm and re-use the sleeves. the extra mm or 2 won't gain much in performance and you'll just make the cylinder walls thinner. just up the boost 1-2 lbs to get the same effect.

 

Just re-sleeve same size

 

Definitely go stock size. Boring over just becomes a pain when none of the stuff you find will work. Especially on the F which doesn't have nearly enough support.

 

what are you goals? i would just run stock sleeves and use that money on an h23 or f23 intake manifold and a port job. theres quite a few people in the FI forum making great poewr with stock sleeves. IMO if you dont plan on making over 400whp stock sleeves are fine.

 

my goals are to roughly hit between 350-400whp, more if possible and have it reliable. I was going to do an H22 swap then boost it, but that's def out of my price range. Plus I like how the F's usually get there power in the lower rpm ranges compared to the H22's. I'm not sure if I'm going to sleeve the block or not. Depends on how the cylinder walls look when I remove the head. I might just get the stock ones honed and cleaned up a bit, then install a block guard. Also, I plan on replacing the crank and rods. I think I'm going to use Golden Eagle H22 Rods and a H22 crank to give me a better rod / stroke ratio and get then get custom pistons. If the h23 intake manifold fits the f22b1, would I be able to use this one and have the head port patched to it? Sorry that the picture is so large.

 

I don't think you really want that. You said reliable and from what I understand you can trust the welds on OBX stuff to be poorly done and crack.

 

Alright, I'll look into a different option for my IM then (stock H23 IM, port matched). What should I do about getting a camshaft regrind? Should I get one done for turbo or just use an adjustable cam(so I can advance / retard my timing if needed)? I already have an adjustable cam. I talked to Delta Camshaft (wanted a 272 delta regrid) and they don't do it for my engine (only the f22b2 non-vtec), but I haven't spoke with Web Camshafts yet, but it's $350 for a custom regrind. I'm going to get a timing kit for my engine(since it has 110,000 miles and I'm not sure if the kid that had the car before me replaced it or not, probably not knowing him). If I switch the internals of my block to H22 rods, H22a crank (50mm), and custom pistons, that won't affect the parts that I need to rebuild my timing, right?

 

The F22 doesn't really have an agressive cam profile so as long as your tuning is good the stock cam should be fine, VTEC and all. As far as the manifold goes I would look into on OEM Honda manifold port matched. Since you are running boost it doesn't really matter as much as if you were running N/A. Internal questions I'm not too sure of so I'll let someone else answer that.

 

the h23 manifold will not fit the f22b1 head.The h23 ports are shaped like 0-0-0-0 were the f22b1 ports are like this 0-00-0.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabig1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the h23 manifold will not fit the f22b1 head.The h23 ports are shaped like 0-0-0-0 were the f22b1 ports are like this 0-00-0.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh INTAKE MANIFOLD. that picture isnt even close to looking like a header or turbo mani

 

it fits(portwise)... a friend of mine put one on his f22b1 in his EG hatch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceACCORDingly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

uh INTAKE MANIFOLD. that picture isnt even close to looking like a header or turbo mani</TD></TR></TABLE>

myt bad ******, i thought they were both different

 

I decided not to go the route of boosting the F22 ... JDM H22a swap in progress now ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95AccordVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I decided not to go the route of boosting the F22 ... JDM H22a swap in progress now ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

flake J/K good luck with the swap

 

what are your plans for the h22? it would be a shame if you left it stock instead of boosting the f.

 

The H22 is going to stay stock this summer, then build it up and boost it next summer. Plus I don't really know enough about boosting my car safely and the way I want to. It'll give me more time to research, learn about turbos, ect. As much as I want to boost the F, I'm going to shy away from it. I want to get a Suzuki GSX-R 600 or 750 and a jetski this summer too. So no boosting of F = H22a swap, bike, and jetski ... I'd rather have 3 toys instead of just 1 lol


Modified by 95AccordVtec at 4:26 PM 11/7/2005