Hate to sound like a n00b at engine building but (well I am) I figured I'd ask this before I finished all the hard work on my D16A6 (I know, nothing special, I just want a nice daily driver) to have it break due to skimping out on some things. Now, I already have a new water pump, timing belt tensioner, and belt and all that good stuff.

Here's my question, I checked the clearences as best I could from the Haynes manual (i know, it's not helms) and they seemed alright and then it told me to pack the oil pump cavity with petroleum jelly. What exactly do they mean by that?

Also I've been wondering if I should go ahead and get a new oil pump altogether, or is it not worth it? I found this one on Summit for 80 or so dollars is it any good?

Two more small questions and that's it:

What engine assembly lubricant should I use? I've done a search and found most people either recommended the Clevite 77 BearingGuard or Redline, but the opinions were so mixed. Would it really matter either way?

And lastly, for all the places where some sort of liquid gasket/sealer is needed, what should I use? AutoZone and such places sell Red RTV silicone high temp stuff, would it be that or something special?

 

When you pack the oil pump on a Honda you have to remove the cover plate from the back and fill the gear with as much petroleum jelly as you can. When you reassemble it you have to torque the screws on too.

While the pump's rear cover is off you should inspect the pump's gears. Personally I've never seen a Honda oil pump gear wear out, but there are springs and such in there that can alter the oil pressure if they weaken. Anyway, you inspect the oil pump with feeler gauges... it's outlined in the Helm but I'm not sure about the Haynes. At any rate, do yourself a favor and get the Helm. They're cheap on Amazon.

For the RTV, USE HONDABOND. Get it from a Honda stealer. It's not cheap at around 11 bucks for a small tube, but boy it is good stuff. Think about it this way: 11 bucks now, or four bucks now for the cheap stuff plus 11 bucks later when you have to pull things back apart to chase an oil leak.

If for some reason you need to use generic RTV in a pinch, use the gray type. Each color of RTV is meant for a specific application, and Honda engines use many bolts on each flange for high clamping pressure, and gray RTV is well suited for high clamping pressure. Paper thin coats!!

 

Thanks for the informative answer. I will definately go to the Honda stealer and get some hondabond then. Where's a good place to get the Clevite BearingGuard stuff or the Redline?

 

In my opinion you dont need to prime the oil pump with anything. As soon as the engine starts it will prime itself. Besides opening up the oil pump is just another area to screw up.

 

Ok, got another question. I have no clue how to set the block at TDC. The shop that pulled the engine didn't leave me the crank pulley and I just got a new one off ebay (stock, not one of the lightened pieces of crap) so I have no clue how to set it at TDC. The crank pulley I just got looks odd to me, maybe it's cause i've never actually seen the one that goes with the engine, but the two "gears" look to be fairly close in diameter and there's no rubber (for some reason I swear that rubber inserts had something to do with the harmonic dampening effect of stock crank pulleys). Is there supposed to be rubber on it or is it just metal?

 

Im not sure about your crank pulley but the easiest way to set a block to TDC is to rotate the crank until #1 piston is "Top dead center" (at its highest position).

 

Well I know how to move the piston, the question is, what exactly is top dead center? How far should it go up? I got an email from someone on here who couldn't post at the time (due to being a trial member) and it was very informative. I looked closely at my crank pulley that I got and it looks like the marks have faded slightly, is there any other way to make absolutely certain?

 

There is a TDC mark on your crank pulley, it's apart from the close 3 marks for your ignition.

For my oil pump I just measured the clearances, and didn't put **** in it to prime it.

 

This is the problem I'm running into. When I got my D16A6 back, I didn't get it back with the crank pulley. I had to order one from someone else. How can I tell it's even for a D16A6? the guy said it was, but I have no clue? And I see at least four barely distinguishable white marks. All on the larger "gear". Three of them seem to be fairly evenly spaced then at one of those three, there is one mark slightly to the left of and below the first of those three fairly evenly spaced marks but as I said, they're all faded