Easiest way to wire in some gauges without hacking up the dash? Want dimmer function as well.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
I'm installing a set of Defi gauges into a gauge cluster bezel (the one that replaces the stock gauge bezel).
Since I'm already removing the gauge cluster bezel would it be easiest to go ahead and pull out the actual gauge cluster and use it to wire into? I'd also like to be able to dim the gauges as well so if anyone knows of an easy wire to get to that comes off the dimmer switch I would appreciate it. That's another reason I think wiring into the stock gauge cluster might be best since it runs the gauge lights off the dimmer switch.
Any input on the best way to do this before I start tearing stuff up under the dash to find wires would be appreciated.
I wired my guages to the front fog light/city lights switch . I don`t know if USDM has that switch . It`s that round switch near the ignition key . It was pretty easy because you don`t have to take out many stuff.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marlon88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wired my guages to the front fog light/city lights switch . I don`t know if USDM has that switch . It`s that round switch near the ignition key . It was pretty easy because you don`t have to take out many stuff.
Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like where the USDM dimmer control is.
Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like where the USDM dimmer control is.
This is quite simple to do. First get in the car and pop off the dial that controls the dimmer to the gauges in the car already. Take your time getting these pieces off because they will break if you man-handle them. Once you have them off you will see that there are three wires. The black is your return and there are two colored wires. Refer to your helms to tell you which one does which. I cannot remember which.
You don't need to run power from a 12v source since these wires (though on a dimmer control) have 12v already going through them. Use trial and error until you properly splice the correct 12v supply that will dim your gauges the same way your dash lights will dim. If you connect to the wrong wire, you will see that when you dim your dash lights, your gauges will get brighter. Simple, just swap for the other colored wire.
Use something easy to work with like 14 gauge or 16 gauge stranded wire. The distance is short, from the power to the gauge so there will not be any loss in voltage drop.
Put everything back together and Presto, your gauges are on the factory dimmer.
You don't need to run power from a 12v source since these wires (though on a dimmer control) have 12v already going through them. Use trial and error until you properly splice the correct 12v supply that will dim your gauges the same way your dash lights will dim. If you connect to the wrong wire, you will see that when you dim your dash lights, your gauges will get brighter. Simple, just swap for the other colored wire.
Use something easy to work with like 14 gauge or 16 gauge stranded wire. The distance is short, from the power to the gauge so there will not be any loss in voltage drop.
Put everything back together and Presto, your gauges are on the factory dimmer.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is quite simple to do. First get in the car and pop off the dial that controls the dimmer to the gauges in the car already. Take your time getting these pieces off because they will break if you man-handle them. Once you have them off you will see that there are three wires. The black is your return and there are two colored wires. Refer to your helms to tell you which one does which. I cannot remember which.
You don't need to run power from a 12v source since these wires (though on a dimmer control) have 12v already going through them. Use trial and error until you properly splice the correct 12v supply that will dim your gauges the same way your dash lights will dim. If you connect to the wrong wire, you will see that when you dim your dash lights, your gauges will get brighter. Simple, just swap for the other colored wire.
Use something easy to work with like 14 gauge or 16 gauge stranded wire. The distance is short, from the power to the gauge so there will not be any loss in voltage drop.
Put everything back together and Presto, your gauges are on the factory dimmer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks a ton. I was wondering why the Defi gauges have a 4 wire hook up. One for a 12v ignition wire, one for a 12v battery wire, and another for the gauge light (the other is of course the ground). Why would you want one running off a 12v battery wire? It's not like an oil pressure gauge is going to be of any use when the car isn't running.
You don't need to run power from a 12v source since these wires (though on a dimmer control) have 12v already going through them. Use trial and error until you properly splice the correct 12v supply that will dim your gauges the same way your dash lights will dim. If you connect to the wrong wire, you will see that when you dim your dash lights, your gauges will get brighter. Simple, just swap for the other colored wire.
Use something easy to work with like 14 gauge or 16 gauge stranded wire. The distance is short, from the power to the gauge so there will not be any loss in voltage drop.
Put everything back together and Presto, your gauges are on the factory dimmer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks a ton. I was wondering why the Defi gauges have a 4 wire hook up. One for a 12v ignition wire, one for a 12v battery wire, and another for the gauge light (the other is of course the ground). Why would you want one running off a 12v battery wire? It's not like an oil pressure gauge is going to be of any use when the car isn't running.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks a ton. I was wondering why the Defi gauges have a 4 wire hook up. One for a 12v ignition wire, one for a 12v battery wire, and another for the gauge light (the other is of course the ground). Why would you want one running off a 12v battery wire? It's not like an oil pressure gauge is going to be of any use when the car isn't running. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm. That changes things a bit. I was unaware that there were three wires involved. I checked the website http://www.defi-shop.com but came up with nothing. This is what I figured from what you said:
12V ignition wire needs to go to the 12V ignition source
12V battery were needs to go to the + on the battery
12V light wire goes to the dimmer that I was talking about above
Ground wire, splice it into a negative wire. It is better than simply grounding it to the chasis. This ensures a complete circuit has been made and leaves little room for problems down the road.
Let me know how it worked.
Thanks a ton. I was wondering why the Defi gauges have a 4 wire hook up. One for a 12v ignition wire, one for a 12v battery wire, and another for the gauge light (the other is of course the ground). Why would you want one running off a 12v battery wire? It's not like an oil pressure gauge is going to be of any use when the car isn't running. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm. That changes things a bit. I was unaware that there were three wires involved. I checked the website http://www.defi-shop.com but came up with nothing. This is what I figured from what you said:
12V ignition wire needs to go to the 12V ignition source
12V battery were needs to go to the + on the battery
12V light wire goes to the dimmer that I was talking about above
Ground wire, splice it into a negative wire. It is better than simply grounding it to the chasis. This ensures a complete circuit has been made and leaves little room for problems down the road.
Let me know how it worked.
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm. That changes things a bit. I was unaware that there were three wires involved. I checked the website http://www.defi-shop.com but came up with nothing. This is what I figured from what you said:
12V ignition wire needs to go to the 12V ignition source
12V battery were needs to go to the + on the battery
12V light wire goes to the dimmer that I was talking about above
Ground wire, splice it into a negative wire. It is better than simply grounding it to the chasis. This ensures a complete circuit has been made and leaves little room for problems down the road.
Let me know how it worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.defi-shop.com/produ....html
I still don't get why it needs to be hooked into the battery if it will already be getting a 12v power source. Oh well.
12V ignition wire needs to go to the 12V ignition source
12V battery were needs to go to the + on the battery
12V light wire goes to the dimmer that I was talking about above
Ground wire, splice it into a negative wire. It is better than simply grounding it to the chasis. This ensures a complete circuit has been made and leaves little room for problems down the road.
Let me know how it worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.defi-shop.com/produ....html
I still don't get why it needs to be hooked into the battery if it will already be getting a 12v power source. Oh well.
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Calibration is the reason it may need a constant power supply.
Look on page 2 in the thread below.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=801990
It mentions the power concerns you are interested in as well as the dimmer functionality you want to use with the Defi gauges.
Please post a how-to if you get a chance.
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