OBD2 H22A4 motor into OBD1 H23 wiring harness.
I have been researching all day and can find anything good.
Right now im my car i have a h23 OBD1
going to be swaping in a OBD2 h22A4
what parts do i need to make it work with the h23 wiring harness.
I already know im going to have to use my h23 dizzy and that im going to have to wire vtec.
Right now im my car i have a h23 OBD1
going to be swaping in a OBD2 h22A4
what parts do i need to make it work with the h23 wiring harness.
I already know im going to have to use my h23 dizzy and that im going to have to wire vtec.
Its a pretty easy swap. The h23 dizzy is a good start. You will also need:
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syntax420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a pretty easy swap. The h23 dizzy is a good start. You will also need:
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks alot
so mostly just taking things from the h23 and putting it on the h22a4 besides the ecu and injectors.
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks alotso mostly just taking things from the h23 and putting it on the h22a4 besides the ecu and injectors.
I am doing the same thing (real soon thanks to my car taking a crap....) and have heard the same things mentioned.....only other issue I heard was crank pulley can be H22A4, but belt has to be for the H23 if you want to keep the same accessories.
Sorry for jackin your thread....let me know how things go.
But i have heard it is pretty straightforward.
Sorry for jackin your thread....let me know how things go.
But i have heard it is pretty straightforward.
Yeah, i knew i was forgetting something. The p/s belt wont line up right if you use the h22a4 pulley. I ended up using one off a h23.
You also need to reuse the h23 fuel rail because the fitting is on the opposite side.
Speaking of H-series crank pulleys, whats up with them chipping so easy? I have had two h23's and a h22a4 and ALL of them have had chipped pulleys. Am i rough or are they just fragile. . . .
You also need to reuse the h23 fuel rail because the fitting is on the opposite side.
Speaking of H-series crank pulleys, whats up with them chipping so easy? I have had two h23's and a h22a4 and ALL of them have had chipped pulleys. Am i rough or are they just fragile. . . .
I have an H22A4 P/S pump that I was hoping to use as a replacement for my stock OEM unit....that should still work with the H23 pulley right, even though the H23 pulley has 5 grooves and the H22A4 has 6?....not sure.
Yeah the pulleys seem to be real thin at the edge....have one that chipped somehow just by being in the bed of a station wagon.....and no I was not flying around corners with an engine in the back...
Yeah the pulleys seem to be real thin at the edge....have one that chipped somehow just by being in the bed of a station wagon.....and no I was not flying around corners with an engine in the back...
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Would the H23A P/S pump work just with an aftermarket pulley made for H22 ? (and same for alternator) ? this way one can keep H23 accessories and use the H22A4 belt ? (this way, the AEM pulley kit could be a solution)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesus_FR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would the H23A P/S pump work just with an aftermarket pulley made for H22 ? (and same for alternator) ? this way one can keep H23 accessories and use the H22A4 belt ? (this way, the AEM pulley kit could be a solution)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, if the belt for the AEM pulleys match the crank pulley.
Yes, if the belt for the AEM pulleys match the crank pulley.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syntax420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a pretty easy swap. The h23 dizzy is a good start. You will also need:
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what about the h23 resistor box? will that work on the h22 345cc obd1 injectors
-P13 ecu
-345cc obd1 injectors from a 4th gen obd1 vtec prelude
-you need to swap the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the block, and reuse the temp sender from the h23
-reuse the h23 alternator bracket, but you have to grind a "tab" thats on the back of it so it fits tight up against the h22a4 block
-i also used the h23 throttle body because the different map sensor location, but the h22a4 one might work
Thats all i can remember right now. good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>what about the h23 resistor box? will that work on the h22 345cc obd1 injectors
Yes on the resister box it will work, You can't use the H22A4 PS pump b/c of the PS line. You also will have to switch the knock sensor from the H22A4 with the one on the H23 cause the plugs are different. Oh and you can use the H22A4 alternator. Yes the ribs are a diffenent number but i havn't had a problem with it.
So if I wanted to use the H22A4 P/S pump with the H23 wiring harness I would have to use the H22A4 P/S line?....or I can't use the pump at all because I can't use the line at all?
i think the reason y you cant use the h22a4 p/s line is because it dose go to the vss like the one in the h23 dose
i amd going to use all h23 accesories so im going to have to get a h23 crank pully.
im still looking for obd1 h22 injectors and a p13
i amd going to use all h23 accesories so im going to have to get a h23 crank pully.
im still looking for obd1 h22 injectors and a p13
Ok, so now it looks like I have a P/S pump to sell
Thanks for the info. though!! I am glad to be finding this stuff out now instead of when I am in the middle of my swap.
Luckily I have my H23 in my car still, so will re-use that crank pulley and all my current accessories (in the car) and swap my old H23 P/S pump and hope it lasts until I can get the $$ for a new H23 pump.
Thanks for the info. though!! I am glad to be finding this stuff out now instead of when I am in the middle of my swap.
Luckily I have my H23 in my car still, so will re-use that crank pulley and all my current accessories (in the car) and swap my old H23 P/S pump and hope it lasts until I can get the $$ for a new H23 pump.
You can use the H23 PS pump just fine. But you'll run into the problem with the H23 bracket with the H22 head. When you take off the h23 PS bracket you'll see some metal thats on the back of the h32 PS bracket. You'll have to cut that off so that the bracket can fit against the h22 head. You'll know what you have to cut off when you try and bolt the H23 bracket to the H22 head. Its not really that hard to spot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pretty sure they are the same....</TD></TR></TABLE>
okay thanks
okay thanks
Resurrecting a post from the dead. If I want to put a 97 H22A4 in my 93 Si, I need to use a P13 ECU, Vtec Injectors, Front rad hose elbow, and use the bracket and pulleys and P/s pump from the H23 and I am good? Can I leave the balance shaft pulley and ckp sensor on oil pump and such that have obd2 timing marks in the engine and it wont have any issues? Also if I have the vtec wiring in from the factory, do I just need to wire the engine sensors, or do I need to add pins to plug into the ECU also? Just want to make sure I have everything I can done before my motor gets here, so if I have to pull out the ECU to add pins on the connector as opposed to just plugging the new one in place of the old one I can.
OBD2 engine harnesses do not have the same car-side connectors as the OBD1s do....so you have to use the obd1 harness
that would require changing out the distributor and using the obd1 distributor....it is up to you if you want to take the crap out down by the oil pump or not.....
that would require changing out the distributor and using the obd1 distributor....it is up to you if you want to take the crap out down by the oil pump or not.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also if I have the vtec wiring in from the factory, do I just need to wire the engine sensors, or do I need to add pins to plug into the ECU also? Just want to make sure I have everything I can done before my motor gets here, so if I have to pull out the ECU to add pins on the connector as opposed to just plugging the new one in place of the old one I can.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't remember replying to this thread back in Oct '05?!
But from what I remember from my a4 swap, most Ludes have the VTEC solenoid switch wired in. Check by the passenger strut tower for an empty connector that isn't connected to anything. Should be a single green wire. You might have to run a new VTEC oil pressure wire though. Double check the pins on the ecu harness if they are present.
Also, I left the CKP sensor by the a4's oil pump. Just secure it to something so it's not dangling around.
I don't remember replying to this thread back in Oct '05?!
But from what I remember from my a4 swap, most Ludes have the VTEC solenoid switch wired in. Check by the passenger strut tower for an empty connector that isn't connected to anything. Should be a single green wire. You might have to run a new VTEC oil pressure wire though. Double check the pins on the ecu harness if they are present.
Also, I left the CKP sensor by the a4's oil pump. Just secure it to something so it's not dangling around.
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