which Rod bearinds for LS Vtec?
which bearings would be best for LS vtec, i am already getting ARP rod bolts and was thinking about getting ACL bearings
there are standard and race bearings, which ones would be best?
and should i get the ones with the .001" expanded oil clearance? or just get the normal ones
lemme know because i know spinning a bearing is a major pain and costly
there are standard and race bearings, which ones would be best?
and should i get the ones with the .001" expanded oil clearance? or just get the normal ones
lemme know because i know spinning a bearing is a major pain and costly
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From: Formally known as stock93cx Norcal and Vegas
normal ones are good enought just measure them and make sure everything is in spec
read this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197621 its about the acl race bearings
read this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197621 its about the acl race bearings
i have my ls rods re notched (tanged) so they can run the narrower gsr/itr rod bearing with the cotiing on them. i sugest anyone that is building a ls block to do this. i even do these to my eagle rods so they can run gsr/itr rod bearings
stick with oem bearings with the proper clearance, do not use ls rodbearings, use a b16a bearing, or have the rods re tangd to run gsr/itr bearings
Just so you know the info in the thread about the ACL race bearings is bogus. The std. race bearing (the H) is the same or .0001 looser. The (HX) is .0008 looser on the rod bearings and .001 on the mains. The mains also have an extended groove cut part way into the lower shell providing better oiling to the rods.I have only sold about 50 sets of these to people like Jason Hunt, Jdogg, Jim Justice, etc. and ther are no complaints. Just get the clearances right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know the info in the thread about the ACL race bearings is bogus. The std. race bearing (the H) is the same or .0001 looser. The (HX) is .0008 looser on the rod bearings and .001 on the mains. The mains also have an extended groove cut part way into the lower shell providing better oiling to the rods.I have only sold about 50 sets of these to people like Jason Hunt, Jdogg, Jim Justice, etc. and ther are no complaints. Just get the clearances right. </TD></TR></TABLE>
so does this mean that they are **** bearings? or good ones, i think ill stick with the ones without rhe expanded oil clearance if i do use them
so does this mean that they are **** bearings? or good ones, i think ill stick with the ones without rhe expanded oil clearance if i do use them
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Reading is an specialty, that requires at least a GED. Go OEM if you do not have one. Actually trying to compare the A's, B's, C's etc. to the 1's 2's, etc. could be a challenge.
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
when you guys have these rods "retanged" is the notch being made wider or is it being recut on the other side of the saddle so the bearings are flipped around?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you guys have these rods "retanged" is the notch being made wider or is it being recut on the other side of the saddle so the bearings are flipped around? </TD></TR></TABLE>
re cut on the other side of the saddle, then assemble so the tangs are facing the exhaust side of the motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reading is an specialty, that requires at least a GED. Go OEM if you do not have one. Actually trying to compare the A's, B's, C's etc. to the 1's 2's, etc. could be a challenge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
re cut on the other side of the saddle, then assemble so the tangs are facing the exhaust side of the motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reading is an specialty, that requires at least a GED. Go OEM if you do not have one. Actually trying to compare the A's, B's, C's etc. to the 1's 2's, etc. could be a challenge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURPLETERROR aka BIGMATT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
re cut on the other side of the saddle, then assemble so the tangs are facing the exhaust side of the motor
</TD></TR></TABLE>
re cut on the other side of the saddle, then assemble so the tangs are facing the exhaust side of the motor
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Actually trying to compare the A's, B's, C's etc. to the 1's 2's, etc. could be a challenge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cue Jackson5!
Cue Jackson5!
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From: Formally known as stock93cx Norcal and Vegas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18_racer805 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have heard clevite bearings are pretty good... is that true or false.. i do know that the acl bearing are good</TD></TR></TABLE>
true
ndc and itm are also good... as long as they are in spec they are good
Modified by G U E C O at 11:09 AM 10/24/2005
true
ndc and itm are also good... as long as they are in spec they are good
Modified by G U E C O at 11:09 AM 10/24/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reading a micrometer and bore guage takes some skill though. I think Don will agree to that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I still have to get out my instructions just to remember how to read them, lol.
I still have to get out my instructions just to remember how to read them, lol.
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