i need custom leingth ss braded brake lines i am shaving my engine bay and am going to ru all ss lines to help run everything where i want. aney ideas?

 

hit up flamenco t he can make you cusom ss lines

 

full braided lines are heavy, exensive and it will make your brakes mushy.... if you buy the proper tools you can run hard lines MUCH neater looking than braided soft line all over the place

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i need custom leingth ss braded brake lines i am shaving my engine bay and am going to ru all ss lines to help run everything where i want. aney ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Talk to PandaHatch about bending your own lines, he did it for his engine bay shaving.

 

mushey is no good im just scared about running hard lines into the inside of my car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mushey is no good im just scared about running hard lines into the inside of my car </TD></TR></TABLE>

why

 

If you use the RIGHT braided lines you won't have a mushy pedal.

 

where can i get them?

 

I wouldnt run braided hoses from the front. I'd put solid lines and use braided hoses only to connect the lines to the rotors.

 

i would probaly change from braded to solid under the car to go the rear brakes

 

bending the hard lines is actually pretty easy. I would just do that and run braided stainless flex lines where the stock flex lines are. No big deal.

 

Why would you want to trade off from a hard line that will barely expand under pressure to a softer material that will expand (relative) to the hard line, and also is much more $$$

 

no lines are running in the stock location i am running the perportioning valve under tha dash and i was thinking with all ss braded lines it would be easier to run everything

 

sure it would be easier but thats the stupidest way.

i could see from you point of view that it might look "cool" but the fact of the matter is, steel braided hoses aren't good after a foot or so. it is much better to get new hard lines because of the mushy brake pedal effect. they're only good to replace your stock front and rear rubber brake lines and maybe to your master cylinder but thats it.

earls has hardlines in x amount of feet @ 5 dollars a foot. i replaced all my hardlines using earls because for one, they're stainless steel and wont crack on you and two, they're better than the stock ones cause if you over tighten them, they will crack and they're already pre-bent which means if you bend them another way, it weakens the cheap stock harlines. and finally, the hardlines are cheaper. cheaper and better? come on.

also, if you're looking to replace all your lines like i, fittings and an to metric adapters w/ the firewall 180 degree fittings, it all roughly totals up to 6-7 hundred. thats including flaring the hardlines and all the labor. have fun

 

Craig, here is another slam on the idea.

Stainless braided line will swell (everything will in limited amounts) and if you run that much, your making a mistake (my opinion).

I'd recommend you just make up mild steel hardlines and call it a day if you are installing it in an area where it will not be seen (or you don't care).

If you want to be trick and impress your friends, then make up stainless hardlines. Keep in mind that due to the hardness of stainless tube, you have to buy the really good (pricy) tools to bend and flair it!! I buy tube in 8 foot lengths from a local distributor.

I think that stainless hardlines, if done correctly, show a certain amount of workmanship.

Due to not living in NY, I can't recommend a place to buy hardline and shipping it would rule it out. I'd recommend that you find out who the factory authorized dealers are near you that handle Earls, Goodrich, and Aeroquip.

Wes

 

Good thread, might be running new lines in my hatch.

 

im going to be running stainless harrdlines il post picsup i gota get the welding griding and body work done in my engine bay first then the engine goes for modification to the engine harness and mock up then removal and paint