Air in coolant lines? Bleeder screw?
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 468
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From: Batavia, IL, United States
Air in coolant lines? Bleeder screw?
The idle on my car is fucked up...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1406343
...and my buddy suggested removing the radiator cap, starting the car, turning on the heater, and then loosening the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing until coolant runs steady out of it, then tighten the screw down, and then top off the coolant.
Is the bleeder screw a 12mm with a little nipple-thing on top? ...because I loosened that screw and massive amounts of air started bubbling out of the top of the radiator and coolant was getting everywhere. No coolant was running out from that screw like my friend said, and there was so much air coming out from the radiator that I just tightened the screw back up and topped off the coolant.
I'm not sure if I even loosened the right screw, and if I did, how come the air never stopped coming out of the radiator. I was under the impression that if there was air in the system, it would've just been a little bit and the bubbles would've stopped coming out at some point. Does the car need to be hot? Cold? Does the fan need to kick on at some point when the radiator cap is off in order for me to fill the system properly?
Also, should I tighten my idle screw all the way? It's opened a fair amount. And what's this I hear about resetting an idle to +/- 750 RPM's?
I know some of these questions are noobish, so don't go flaming me. I'm just trying to get some help because this is my daily driver, and I can't be having problems like this!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1406343
...and my buddy suggested removing the radiator cap, starting the car, turning on the heater, and then loosening the bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing until coolant runs steady out of it, then tighten the screw down, and then top off the coolant.
Is the bleeder screw a 12mm with a little nipple-thing on top? ...because I loosened that screw and massive amounts of air started bubbling out of the top of the radiator and coolant was getting everywhere. No coolant was running out from that screw like my friend said, and there was so much air coming out from the radiator that I just tightened the screw back up and topped off the coolant.
I'm not sure if I even loosened the right screw, and if I did, how come the air never stopped coming out of the radiator. I was under the impression that if there was air in the system, it would've just been a little bit and the bubbles would've stopped coming out at some point. Does the car need to be hot? Cold? Does the fan need to kick on at some point when the radiator cap is off in order for me to fill the system properly?
Also, should I tighten my idle screw all the way? It's opened a fair amount. And what's this I hear about resetting an idle to +/- 750 RPM's?
I know some of these questions are noobish, so don't go flaming me. I'm just trying to get some help because this is my daily driver, and I can't be having problems like this!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: westchester or philly, ny
Re: Air in coolant lines? Bleeder screw? (JDM H23A)
your supposed to fill the rad with fluid then put the cap back on. then open the bleeder. dont open the bleeder with the cap off.
the problem with the idle sounds like a vaccum issue. a leak.
the problem with not starting kinda sounds like a main relay but it could be alot of things.
the problem with the idle sounds like a vaccum issue. a leak.
the problem with not starting kinda sounds like a main relay but it could be alot of things.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 468
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From: Batavia, IL, United States
Re: Air in coolant lines? Bleeder screw? (kulrevon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your supposed to fill the rad with fluid then put the cap back on. then open the bleeder. dont open the bleeder with the cap off.
the problem with the idle sounds like a vaccum issue. a leak.
the problem with not starting kinda sounds like a main relay but it could be alot of things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So the screw that I loosened was in fact the bleeder screw? Should the car be hot or cold when I open up the bleeder screw? Is there any "good way" to check for vaccum leaks? And I already replaced the main relay a few months ago, but that didn't solve the problem
By the way, I still haven't installed those shifter cables yet kulrevon...but I did install my Forbidden short shifter! The cables are next
the problem with the idle sounds like a vaccum issue. a leak.
the problem with not starting kinda sounds like a main relay but it could be alot of things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So the screw that I loosened was in fact the bleeder screw? Should the car be hot or cold when I open up the bleeder screw? Is there any "good way" to check for vaccum leaks? And I already replaced the main relay a few months ago, but that didn't solve the problem
By the way, I still haven't installed those shifter cables yet kulrevon...but I did install my Forbidden short shifter! The cables are next
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 878
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From: Collierville, TN, USA
Re: Air in coolant lines? Bleeder screw? (JDM H23A)
If your idle screw has been messed with, you need to reset base idle. Unplug the IAC and set the idle to 500 to 600 RPM. Plug it back in and clear your codes. Idle should return to 750 and be steady if this was the problem that was causing your IAC to hunt. Get a vacuum guage/pump to check for leaks. Large leaks can be heard by running your hand around lines, inlets, and gasket surfaces and listening for a change in pitch. Small leaks and leaks in valves and diaphrams will require a pump. Their about $30 and invaluable for diagnosing problems. Your car should idle around 21 or 22 in. Hg.
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