I just put in a new clutch and I have no clutch pedal preasure. I read the honda manual, which was pretty limited on info, and followed the instructions. I have pumped the clutch about 400 times and no bubbles or fluid coming out of bleeder valve. I made sure that there is fluid in the resevior. Anyone have any tips?

 

I had to use a vaccum bleeder kit to start it. and then bleed it like car brakes but I had to lift the pedal off the floor. everyone does something different and everyone has different luck with it.

wait if you dont have anything coming out your bleed pull it out and make sure it isnt clogged. also if you have time maybe leave the bleeder out and left gravity do its work?

like I said I used a combination of the vaccum bleeder and the manual way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreed2300 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just put in a new clutch and I have no clutch pedal preasure. I read the honda manual, which was pretty limited on info, and followed the instructions. I have pumped the clutch about 400 times and no bubbles or fluid coming out of bleeder valve. I made sure that there is fluid in the resevior. Anyone have any tips?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, when i was bleeding my clutch after my swap i had the same problem, i tried everything and it still wouldnt work. i found out that the bleeder screw thing had a slow leak. luckily, i had an extra slave cylinder and took the bleeder screw out of that and tried it again and it worked perfect. try changing your bleeder screw.

 

open your bleeder screw at the slave. put a vacuun tube over the top of it and let it hang down into a bottle of brake fluid make sure the other end is submerged in the fluid fill up your resevoir and pump away you have to pump it with your hand and keep an eye on the resevoir if it goes too low you will get air in the master don't want that. when you open the bleeder at the slave just give it about a 1/4 turn till its loose thats enough otherwise air will leak in through the treads. If you still can't get it this way make sure that all line is not open somewhere make sure all other bolts are tight.

 

im about to take my motor out and have the clutch replaced, and also some other stuff. em going to have to do this also?

 

if he you disconnect your hydraulic clutch line from your slave. yes you will have to bleed it.

 

I am having the same problem.. I have now replaced the slave cylinder and it still won't engage all of the way enough to put it in gear...I just did the auto to manual conversion and the tranny never left the engine and the pedals haven't changed either... I am really fed up with this ...Any one have any other suggestions..

 

vaccum bleeder. a friend. some time. thats all you need keep pumping.

 

what car did you do the conversion on and how much did it cost?i have a 98 s i want to convert to 5spd.i live in NW arkansas.

Thanks

 

Your bleeder screw may have a little bit of a leak which is why you can't bleed it. Get some teflon tape, the stuff used for plumbing. Wrap it around the threads of the bleeder screw and screw it back in. Now no air will get passed the bleeder screw.

Oh and a vaccum bleeder kit will make the job a lot easier, faster and cleaner.

 

the threads have nothing to do with sealing the bleeder screw, its a tapered end that seats and seals it

 

when i bled my clutch it took a LONG time to build pressure. make sure there are no leaks, but also keep in mind that it takes a while.

 

I didn't bleed mine when I replaced my clutch and flywheel.

Its perfect. I have to replace my slave cylinder boot though - it ripped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i bled my clutch it took a LONG time to build pressure. make sure there are no leaks, but also keep in mind that it takes a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yeah like he said, it takes forever if you have air in there, i was about to give up pumping the first time i did my 5spd swap, till it finally came,

also you can leave the bleeder open and just go inside and pump till ur arm gets sore, then close up the bleeder when your done. no need to pump pump hold, open bleeder then close.

 

wrong wrong wrong, its like an old ford truck, take the slave off the motor, with a friends help, (keep an eye on the fluid) bend the line up enough to were the slave is around the same level as the master, make sure the bleeder is pointed straight up in the air, have a friend pump it a few times hold the pedal down while you bleed it, do it slow at first and you will begin to get pedal, ***!! you have to hold the end of the slave all the way in, it will start moving in and out, once it does bleed it until it seems like you cant keep the end in the slave anymore, put it back on the engine, and bleed one more time and your good to go, ive done it 4 times now and it works great for me, takes 10 mins tops-