Help --- sheared off the lower strut bolt (rear) on my '91.
One side came off relatively easily. But for the other side of the car, instead of the bolt loosening it sheared right near the head. The broken bolt is entirely still in the nut and strut. Yes, I used good penetrating fluid first.
The nut is welded to the strut, so there's no punching the broken bolt through with a punch 'n' hammer.
Any ideas? Drill the other end of the bolt through the nut and hope it can be punched through? Try to destroy the welded-on nut with a nut splitter?
The nut is welded to the strut, so there's no punching the broken bolt through with a punch 'n' hammer.
Any ideas? Drill the other end of the bolt through the nut and hope it can be punched through? Try to destroy the welded-on nut with a nut splitter?
I've seen a problem similar to yours.
So, here's the idea: you can go to either a body shop, a mechanic shop or a muffler shop... or any place where "welding" takes place.... ...they will need to weld a piece of metal there... and after the process is done... remove the bolt (or whatever was left of it..) and .... that means... you wouldn't be able to use the same bolt....
So, here's the idea: you can go to either a body shop, a mechanic shop or a muffler shop... or any place where "welding" takes place.... ...they will need to weld a piece of metal there... and after the process is done... remove the bolt (or whatever was left of it..) and .... that means... you wouldn't be able to use the same bolt....
Well, I'm not worried about using the same bolt again. I can't --- as I said, I sheared off the head with my super-human brutish strength somehow.
The bolt is sheared right level with the strut flange; I doubt there's any way to weld a new piece of metal or whatever to it because it isn't sticking out beyond the strut flange.
The bolt is sheared right level with the strut flange; I doubt there's any way to weld a new piece of metal or whatever to it because it isn't sticking out beyond the strut flange.
would you happen to be changing out the struts too?
if so, just chop off the nut however way you can and pound her out. hopefully its not seized in the LCA bushing.
if you are going to reuse the strut, you can carefully cut off the nut with an angle grinder or something, so that it leaves a relatively smooth surface, then just replace it with a new bolt and a nut with the same thread pitch.
if so, just chop off the nut however way you can and pound her out. hopefully its not seized in the LCA bushing.
if you are going to reuse the strut, you can carefully cut off the nut with an angle grinder or something, so that it leaves a relatively smooth surface, then just replace it with a new bolt and a nut with the same thread pitch.
Yes --- changing out struts 'n' springs.
Hmm, chop off the nut. Whoo boy wish I knew how to best to do it. The bolt was rusted where it broke so perhaps the LCA bushing is the problem ... it's common on CB7s.
I hadn't thought about trying an angle grinder to cut off the nut. That may be a good way even while on the car. Another tool to buy ... and if the bolt it seized inside the bushing I'll have to find one of those and ... yuck. Tomorrow, more Blaster to spray on it first.
Hmm, chop off the nut. Whoo boy wish I knew how to best to do it. The bolt was rusted where it broke so perhaps the LCA bushing is the problem ... it's common on CB7s.
I hadn't thought about trying an angle grinder to cut off the nut. That may be a good way even while on the car. Another tool to buy ... and if the bolt it seized inside the bushing I'll have to find one of those and ... yuck. Tomorrow, more Blaster to spray on it first.
Oh man, the Yamada bird just flew over your head and took a dump. Don't feel lonesome or pregnant though....been there too. LOL
I drilled out the old rubber till I could get a hacksaw blade thru the inside of the bushing, then sawed thru the bushing case.
The sucker came right out then. Then get a new bushing, freeze it for a few hours, spray it down with silicone, then use a couple big sockets and a long bolt and nut to drive it into the lower control arm.
Edit....I wasted 5 hours trying to drill it out and get the old bolt loose
I drilled out the old rubber till I could get a hacksaw blade thru the inside of the bushing, then sawed thru the bushing case.
The sucker came right out then. Then get a new bushing, freeze it for a few hours, spray it down with silicone, then use a couple big sockets and a long bolt and nut to drive it into the lower control arm.Edit....I wasted 5 hours trying to drill it out and get the old bolt loose
Well, I'n not even there yet --- I still need to break the nut off. I bought a nice angle grinder but discovered that my friggin' glasses fog up after 30 seconds of donning protective eyewear. Need to spray them with some anti-fog I guess. I touched the grinder to the nut for a second and a spark hit my face and I chickened out ...
Currently trying to cut the nut off with a nut splitter. Tomorrow I go and buy a B.A.P (Big *** Pipe) for leverage on my breaker bar.
Hey! I like this idea:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... then use a couple big sockets and a long bolt and nut to drive it into the lower control arm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically use one or more sockets to squeeze in the new bushing by tightening a bolt and nut. I'll have to try that ... once I get that far.
Seems there should also be a way to use a C-clamp or similar to do this kind of thing while on the car too? Doesn't anyone make a dedicated tool for this? Do they think everyone will be in a situation where they have the various control arms, etc. off the car to press in bushings?
Currently trying to cut the nut off with a nut splitter. Tomorrow I go and buy a B.A.P (Big *** Pipe) for leverage on my breaker bar.
Hey! I like this idea:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ... then use a couple big sockets and a long bolt and nut to drive it into the lower control arm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically use one or more sockets to squeeze in the new bushing by tightening a bolt and nut. I'll have to try that ... once I get that far.
Seems there should also be a way to use a C-clamp or similar to do this kind of thing while on the car too? Doesn't anyone make a dedicated tool for this? Do they think everyone will be in a situation where they have the various control arms, etc. off the car to press in bushings?
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you can check http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and look it up for the prices and stuff. Other than that if you want an easy time putting it in just go buy you some dry ice and sit the bushing and the dry ice in a cooler for like an hour and then it will be really cold but with some gloves it should go right in the LCA no problem.
One of those thin cutting blades works faster than a regular grinding blade. But you need a face shield. Don't want one of those sparks going in your eye. Be careful.
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Si_chRis
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 27, 2007 09:05 AM




