egt guage wiring (electrical)
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do you have a probe at all ?
for example, I have a greddy EGT gauge. On the #3 cylinder runner of my turbo manifold, i have a 1/8 NPT hold drilled and tapped, where the greddy probe unit will screw in. Then i have the sensor connected to my gauge.
for example, I have a greddy EGT gauge. On the #3 cylinder runner of my turbo manifold, i have a 1/8 NPT hold drilled and tapped, where the greddy probe unit will screw in. Then i have the sensor connected to my gauge.
I guess you just bought the gauge and didn't buy the sensor probe, Autometer has a complete set with gauge and probe, now all you need is to buy the sensor probe, but they have different version, street, race, professional.....something like that, street version is the cheapest
first things first... I don't know anything about the temp module but I do know a bit about thermalcouples. There are pretty much 2 types of thermalcouples that are widely used. Each one has different characteristics on how the resistance of wire changes with heat. The 2 common types are type J, and type K. You need to see if there is one specific type of themalcouple that the meter will read.
Next with the way they work... There are to connections at the module. Basically the way it was taught to me is that the wires are made of two seperate materials (metals). And at the point of where the 2 materials meet.. (soldered connection) is where the signal (resistance) is generated. This resistance is typically higher at lower temperatures and as the connection is heated, the resistance starts to drop. Thus showing a higher temp on a gauge.
So my guess would be to first find out if you can just buy a thermalcouple from the company who designed the module. This would cause less confusion on connections and such but may cost more money. Or is you are looking to save money just find out which type of thermalcouple you need and go from there. I think you may be able to buy thermalcouple at a Radio Shack or some electronics store, but not sure.
But basically you hook up one wire to each connection on the module... then at the exhaust end, solder the two materials together, and attach them to a solid metal stock or some sort. The basis is to have the thermalcoulpe attached to a piece of metal which is drilled into the exhaust port. The exhaust will flow across the metal and then the heat will transfer to the thermalcouple. Just make sure that the thermalcouple is attached securely to the metal which is installed in the exhaust stream. Also make sure that no air can cool the thermalcouple from outside the exhaust. If this happens, you could get false temp readings.
Then the module will interpret the resistance reading and convert the resistance to an actual temp reading on a gauge.
sorry so long but hopefully it make sense and is helpful.
Also as for which cylinder to install the sensor. I would say #3 just from the standpoint of that would be the hottest cylinder under normal conditions.
Hope that helps out.
[Modified by Shft@9GSR, 6:32 PM 3/7/2002]
Next with the way they work... There are to connections at the module. Basically the way it was taught to me is that the wires are made of two seperate materials (metals). And at the point of where the 2 materials meet.. (soldered connection) is where the signal (resistance) is generated. This resistance is typically higher at lower temperatures and as the connection is heated, the resistance starts to drop. Thus showing a higher temp on a gauge.
So my guess would be to first find out if you can just buy a thermalcouple from the company who designed the module. This would cause less confusion on connections and such but may cost more money. Or is you are looking to save money just find out which type of thermalcouple you need and go from there. I think you may be able to buy thermalcouple at a Radio Shack or some electronics store, but not sure.
But basically you hook up one wire to each connection on the module... then at the exhaust end, solder the two materials together, and attach them to a solid metal stock or some sort. The basis is to have the thermalcoulpe attached to a piece of metal which is drilled into the exhaust port. The exhaust will flow across the metal and then the heat will transfer to the thermalcouple. Just make sure that the thermalcouple is attached securely to the metal which is installed in the exhaust stream. Also make sure that no air can cool the thermalcouple from outside the exhaust. If this happens, you could get false temp readings.
Then the module will interpret the resistance reading and convert the resistance to an actual temp reading on a gauge.
sorry so long but hopefully it make sense and is helpful.
Also as for which cylinder to install the sensor. I would say #3 just from the standpoint of that would be the hottest cylinder under normal conditions.
Hope that helps out.
[Modified by Shft@9GSR, 6:32 PM 3/7/2002]
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