like the title says. engine is surging to try and get it out

 

take the cap off the radiator, wrap some paper towel around the mouth, start the car and let it idle for a few mins
This will "burp" the system

 

i did that for a while but it just kept burping. my is a jdm swap so im guessing there was no coolant anywhere in the engine so maybe it will take a while.

 

there are two tools i use.....



and

a venturi coolant vacuum fill tool, pulls vacuum on the coolant system and then fills it no air bubbles, i use it every day i can't find a picture of the one i have right now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the cap off the radiator, wrap some paper towel around the mouth, start the car and let it idle for a few mins
This will "burp" the system</TD></TR></TABLE>

I shake the car aswell when the cap is off.

 

ok this is my way:

Make sure car is cold.
Start it up and open the bleed valve. (by distributor)
As soon as the coolant starts circulating, you will see bubles. After you see actual flow of coolant (not just bubles) close it.
You're done.

This is with heater closed of course. You could open it up also. My guess is that it would take slightly longer for coolant to start flowing...

 

i do the above mentioned and turn the heat full blast so itll go all the way thorugh the system including the heater core.

 

thanks guys

 

No one mentioned the thermostat having to open, maybe i missed it. Once the car reaches operating temp, the stat will open and the bubble will drop the coolant level a good amount, that bleeder screw is not the only way to get the air out, it wont get all the air out.

 

one more thing, stated in the helms manual, let the (coolant)fan turn on twice before finishing off your coolant bleeding process, that is how you know the car is at operating tepmerature

 

Jack the front of the car up put it on jack stands. Making the radiator the higest point on the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap. Start the car wait till the cooling fan comes on twice (may take some time). Clean out the car while you wait. If it is like mine it could use the cleaning. Just after the cooling fan goes off the second time be sure to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Fill the over flow tank to the proper "hot" level. Keep an eye on the tank for the next week it may pull some more air out as it temperature cycles. If it keeps surging set the base idle it may be off.

 

I fill the radiator up and then crank it and let it idle for a few minutes, then fill it up again. I fill it up every day until the day comes when I take the cap off and it's full. I've never had any problems doing it this way. Honda's seem to do well enough with large amounts of air in the system anyway.

 

put cap on 1/2 way after topping off the rad.....let engine run till the fan cycles twice......

"That what the manual sez, I swear........."
Donny Baker

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fill the radiator up and then crank it and let it idle for a few minutes, then fill it up again. I fill it up every day until the day comes when I take the cap off and it's full. I've never had any problems doing it this way. Honda's seem to do well enough with large amounts of air in the system anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I open the rad when the engine is cold, I should expect to see the rad full???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpkelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So if I open the rad when the engine is cold, I should expect to see the rad full???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep thats right, i went through this a couple weeks ago after changing the radiator and thermostat. Just keep an eye on it for a few days, keep the overflow filled and you'll be fine.

 

I've been hearing that whirring noise down near the waterpump even when the belts are off (except timing belt). It must be running dry. I opened the rad this morning and noticed the rad to seem quite dry. The weird thing is my car never over heats (temp guage stays just below the middle). Well time for some more coolant.

 

If coolant level is low, the sender has nothing to get a reading from. So you most likely would be running hot and nevr know it until it was too late.........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"That what the manual sez, I swear........."</TD></TR></TABLE>
to god it does?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are two tools i use.....



and

a venturi coolant vacuum fill tool, pulls vacuum on the coolant system and then fills it no air bubbles, i use it every day i can't find a picture of the one i have right now</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a large funnel like this and keep it full and pump the upper radiator hose(grab it and just squeeze it wit you hand) until no more air bubles come out, and that should do the trick. Everytime I do it this way I never even have to add any coolant at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If coolant level is low, the sender has nothing to get a reading from. So you most likely would be running hot and nevr know it until it was too late.........</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hopefully it's not too late. I'll find out over time.