B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit?
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From: Norcal
Re: B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit? (SilverCIVIC96)
No one's done a B to EK swap??? This must be one of those mystical urban myths that no one's seen before... 
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Re: B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit? (SilverCIVIC96)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverCIVIC96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">???</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: CA
Re: (zer0-psi)
On my Ek the B18c gsr jdm manifold and b-pipe will bolt up to the stock exhaust but the USDM gsr header is way to short. And even my itr DC sports header doesnt bolt up. I need a 3 inch piece made or the stock exhaust setup extended.
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From: OAKLAND/ CASTRO VALLEY, Ca, 94546
Re: (Supa_Slow_Civic)
usdm gsr header wont bolt up to ur existing cat where it stops from
if you have a b18a/b your fine.. im guessing that the b16a2 ones would also fit too
FYI, if you have a GSR, you can not use a LS/RS header for it... it wont fit..
but anyways just go LS, it'll bolt rigth on
if you have a b18a/b your fine.. im guessing that the b16a2 ones would also fit too
FYI, if you have a GSR, you can not use a LS/RS header for it... it wont fit..
but anyways just go LS, it'll bolt rigth on
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From: portland, or, USA
Re: (zer0-psi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0-psi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any b-series header will fit, except gsr...i personally have a b16 header on my swapped eg, which should be the same for an ek...hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
like i said...any header but a gsr one will work.
like i said...any header but a gsr one will work.
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Re: B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit?
EK civics with a b18 or b20 non vtec would need to get a non vtec header because the acura integra header non vtec fit but it turns more to the left so your center bound mid pipe on your ek will not line up with you driver side bound header. You would have to do all types of unnecessary things to get everything to line up like me being that all these want to be pro honda guys don't know **** about Hondas its all I think and I think like wtf 😒
But back to the point get an exhaust kit for 96-00 ek sedan or coupe b series exhaust system and specifiy if its vtec or non vtec also if it doesn't come with a test pipe make sure its the compete exhaust or you will find yourself in a situation like me.
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From: The South - Roll Tide !!!
Re: B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit?
For all 2020 to 2025 honda guys Vtec header are different from non vtec headers vtec are shorter then non vtec.
EK civics with a b18 or b20 non vtec would need to get a non vtec header because the acura integra header non vtec fit but it turns more to the left so your center bound mid pipe on your ek will not line up with you driver side bound header. You would have to do all types of unnecessary things to get everything to line up like me being that all these want to be pro honda guys don't know **** about Hondas its all I think and I think like wtf 😒
But back to the point get an exhaust kit for 96-00 ek sedan or coupe b series exhaust system and specifiy if its vtec or non vtec also if it doesn't come with a test pipe make sure its the compete exhaust or you will find yourself in a situation like me.
EK civics with a b18 or b20 non vtec would need to get a non vtec header because the acura integra header non vtec fit but it turns more to the left so your center bound mid pipe on your ek will not line up with you driver side bound header. You would have to do all types of unnecessary things to get everything to line up like me being that all these want to be pro honda guys don't know **** about Hondas its all I think and I think like wtf 😒
But back to the point get an exhaust kit for 96-00 ek sedan or coupe b series exhaust system and specifiy if its vtec or non vtec also if it doesn't come with a test pipe make sure its the compete exhaust or you will find yourself in a situation like me.
First, lets assume that an aftermarket header is "dimensionally" identical to it's applications factory exhaust manifold. For example: A DC Sports header designed to fit a 1994 Acura Integra LS directly bolts in place of the stock exhaust manifold that comes on the car, assuming that you still have stock mounts (or aftermarket mounts that place the engine in exactly the same location as the OE mounts would). This header would also fit a '94-97 B16A Del Sol, a '99-00 Civic Si, all '94-01 non-VTEC Integras (LS/RS/GS), and even a '00-01 Integra GSR. Now in the case of the B16A powered vehicles I have listed above, the header may hang down a bit low and cause the exhaust system to droop a bit over a half inch toward the ground, making the chances of exhaust and header damage more likely, especially on a lowered vehicle.
Now, if you try to use a header specifically designed for a B16A application, there will be some cases where the header doesn't fit on the taller 1.8L or 2.0L applications because the primary tubes are too short before the header pipes turn and pass under the oil pan, creating contact with the oil pan itself.
The ONLY header that is vastly shorter than all the rest is the '94-99 Integra GSR because it uses a longer cat-body/test pipe from the factory. In addition, it does NOT have a primary O2 sensor bung at the rear of the header just ahead of the rear flange... all others do. However, IF one wanted to use a GSR header on some other application, all they would truly need for a bolt-in install would be a matching GSR cat/test pipe.
The real problem in answering the question originally posed here is how do all of the cheap EBay/Amazon crap headers really compare in fitment and quality to the brand-name headers currently on the market ? Many of these are poorly engineered, and you have to do minor fitting or creating... just as you did with the tunnel alignment that you described above.
So, if you want "Bolt-In", buy a brand name header. If you want to save some $$$ and choose the cheapest one you can find on EBay, be prepared to modify things to make it work... no matter what the description it claims to fit in the sales listing.
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Re: B-series into EK --> Which Header is a direct fit?
Necro-bumping a sixteen year old dead thread... and you did so without providing quality information just like those "pro honda guys" that you loath so much. Nice job rookie.
First, lets assume that an aftermarket header is "dimensionally" identical to it's applications factory exhaust manifold. For example: A DC Sports header designed to fit a 1994 Acura Integra LS directly bolts in place of the stock exhaust manifold that comes on the car, assuming that you still have stock mounts (or aftermarket mounts that place the engine in exactly the same location as the OE mounts would). This header would also fit a '94-97 B16A Del Sol, a '99-00 Civic Si, all '94-01 non-VTEC Integras (LS/RS/GS), and even a '00-01 Integra GSR. Now in the case of the B16A powered vehicles I have listed above, the header may hang down a bit low and cause the exhaust system to droop a bit over a half inch toward the ground, making the chances of exhaust and header damage more likely, especially on a lowered vehicle.
Now, if you try to use a header specifically designed for a B16A application, there will be some cases where the header doesn't fit on the taller 1.8L or 2.0L applications because the primary tubes are too short before the header pipes turn and pass under the oil pan, creating contact with the oil pan itself.
The ONLY header that is vastly shorter than all the rest is the '94-99 Integra GSR because it uses a longer cat-body/test pipe from the factory. In addition, it does NOT have a primary O2 sensor bung at the rear of the header just ahead of the rear flange... all others do. However, IF one wanted to use a GSR header on some other application, all they would truly need for a bolt-in install would be a matching GSR cat/test pipe.
The real problem in answering the question originally posed here is how do all of the cheap EBay/Amazon crap headers really compare in fitment and quality to the brand-name headers currently on the market ? Many of these are poorly engineered, and you have to do minor fitting or creating... just as you did with the tunnel alignment that you described above.
So, if you want "Bolt-In", buy a brand name header. If you want to save some $$$ and choose the cheapest one you can find on EBay, be prepared to modify things to make it work... no matter what the description it claims to fit in the sales listing.
First, lets assume that an aftermarket header is "dimensionally" identical to it's applications factory exhaust manifold. For example: A DC Sports header designed to fit a 1994 Acura Integra LS directly bolts in place of the stock exhaust manifold that comes on the car, assuming that you still have stock mounts (or aftermarket mounts that place the engine in exactly the same location as the OE mounts would). This header would also fit a '94-97 B16A Del Sol, a '99-00 Civic Si, all '94-01 non-VTEC Integras (LS/RS/GS), and even a '00-01 Integra GSR. Now in the case of the B16A powered vehicles I have listed above, the header may hang down a bit low and cause the exhaust system to droop a bit over a half inch toward the ground, making the chances of exhaust and header damage more likely, especially on a lowered vehicle.
Now, if you try to use a header specifically designed for a B16A application, there will be some cases where the header doesn't fit on the taller 1.8L or 2.0L applications because the primary tubes are too short before the header pipes turn and pass under the oil pan, creating contact with the oil pan itself.
The ONLY header that is vastly shorter than all the rest is the '94-99 Integra GSR because it uses a longer cat-body/test pipe from the factory. In addition, it does NOT have a primary O2 sensor bung at the rear of the header just ahead of the rear flange... all others do. However, IF one wanted to use a GSR header on some other application, all they would truly need for a bolt-in install would be a matching GSR cat/test pipe.
The real problem in answering the question originally posed here is how do all of the cheap EBay/Amazon crap headers really compare in fitment and quality to the brand-name headers currently on the market ? Many of these are poorly engineered, and you have to do minor fitting or creating... just as you did with the tunnel alignment that you described above.
So, if you want "Bolt-In", buy a brand name header. If you want to save some $$$ and choose the cheapest one you can find on EBay, be prepared to modify things to make it work... no matter what the description it claims to fit in the sales listing.
Well said !
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