Castle Nuts spinning with ball joint
I had a new ball joint put on, and the castle nut is spinning with the ball joint. Is there an easy way to tighten the nut all the way or get it off again?
Is there a tool or something to keep the bolt coming from the ball joint from spinning?
I'm hearing this knocking noise sometimes and I believe it's because that castle nut is not on all the way. It's tightened just enough to get the cotter pin in - actually, the pin is going through the castleated part of the nut.
Is there a tool or something to keep the bolt coming from the ball joint from spinning?
I'm hearing this knocking noise sometimes and I believe it's because that castle nut is not on all the way. It's tightened just enough to get the cotter pin in - actually, the pin is going through the castleated part of the nut.
Clean the threads and lube them up, and clean the threads of the castle nut
then put a jack underneath the lower control arm and jack it up until the spring starts to compress (ie: car will be just about ready to start jacking itself up more). This will put some pressure on the balljoint and give you a better shot.
Otherwise... its airtools and impact gun... or new balljoint time. Usually when its spinning, its a good sign its starting towards the end of its lifespan (not dead... just starting).
then put a jack underneath the lower control arm and jack it up until the spring starts to compress (ie: car will be just about ready to start jacking itself up more). This will put some pressure on the balljoint and give you a better shot.
Otherwise... its airtools and impact gun... or new balljoint time. Usually when its spinning, its a good sign its starting towards the end of its lifespan (not dead... just starting).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is why i always torque my ball joints to spec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used the castle nut off the old balljoint and couldn't get it to tighten any more without spinning the balljoint... I'm pretty **** with the torque wrench too...
I'm waiting for new castle nuts... that's if UPS feels nice today. It's only been 4 days since they said they would actually deliver it.
I used the castle nut off the old balljoint and couldn't get it to tighten any more without spinning the balljoint... I'm pretty **** with the torque wrench too...
I'm waiting for new castle nuts... that's if UPS feels nice today. It's only been 4 days since they said they would actually deliver it.
I guess you purchased the OEM balljoint that does not include a new castle nut.
Most aftermarket balljoints include a new c-clip and castle nut to avoid situations like this.
Most aftermarket balljoints include a new c-clip and castle nut to avoid situations like this.
If not have someone stand on the arm to add pressure on the joint. That usually works. With someone standing on it while you tighten it up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_696 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If not have someone stand on the arm to add pressure on the joint. That usually works. With someone standing on it while you tighten it up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Standing on the lower control arm eh
I'd guess you meant that they put weight down on the spindle/brake rotor.
Just try my method above... the compression really helps. Just clean all the threads up well.
Standing on the lower control arm eh
I'd guess you meant that they put weight down on the spindle/brake rotor.Just try my method above... the compression really helps. Just clean all the threads up well.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean the threads and lube them up, and clean the threads of the castle nut
then put a jack underneath the lower control arm and jack it up until the spring starts to compress (ie: car will be just about ready to start jacking itself up more). This will put some pressure on the balljoint and give you a better shot.
Otherwise... its airtools and impact gun... or new balljoint time. Usually when its spinning, its a good sign its starting towards the end of its lifespan (not dead... just starting).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That should do it, make sure you done cross thread.
then put a jack underneath the lower control arm and jack it up until the spring starts to compress (ie: car will be just about ready to start jacking itself up more). This will put some pressure on the balljoint and give you a better shot.
Otherwise... its airtools and impact gun... or new balljoint time. Usually when its spinning, its a good sign its starting towards the end of its lifespan (not dead... just starting).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That should do it, make sure you done cross thread.
either that, or look on the bottom of the bolt. on my contour, the bottom of the bolt of the ball joint has a place for a 4.5mm allen wrench, i just put that in there and crank down the castle nut. maybe the integra has it, not sure though. i remember when we did my integra, i just stood on the ball joint with all my weight while my friend cranked it down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lke2drvgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">either that, or look on the bottom of the bolt. on my contour, the bottom of the bolt of the ball joint has a place for a 4.5mm allen wrench, i just put that in there and crank down the castle nut. maybe the integra has it, not sure though. i remember when we did my integra, i just stood on the ball joint with all my weight while my friend cranked it down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No such luck
No such luck
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