88 crx hf
jdm zc vtec
still obd-0

it doesn't even turn over using a pm8 ecu i get codes 6 and 10. with the pr3 i get sixteen quick blinks. im assuming this is a code sixteen, but maybe im misreading it. I know my iat sensor is bad but that shouldn't keep it from starting.
I'm using the hf distributor

what is a code 16 on a pr3 and how can i get this thing to start and clear these codes?

thanks

 

Codes
6 - ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature): defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
10 - IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature): defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

16 - Fuel Injector System: defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

what you can do is check your continuity between the plugs and the pins on the ecu... this can be a little tedious but will help you locate any openings in the circuits... so its probably just your wiring or the ecu, but not likely ecu. did you change any pins at the ecu plugs? if so, the connections may have been damaged from depinning... that kept my car from starting when I swapped in my b16a... took 2 months for me to recognize that. just an idea to check.

 

I had this problem but it might not be the same but it's worth a shot.

The butterflies inside your Trottle body might be stuck open and it's flodding your car causing it not to start. Take the Cover off the Fuel Injection and you will see a metal screen held on by two nuts 10mm to be exact. Take that off and see if it's stuck open. Clean it out with some Throttle body cleaner and check the spring on the side and the lever see if it moves easily or if it gets stuck. If it gets stuck clean it till it doesn't and put everything back wait a few minutes and try starting it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16vtecx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">88 crx hf
jdm zc vtec
still obd-0

it doesn't even turn over using a pm8 ecu i get codes 6 and 10. with the pr3 i get sixteen quick blinks. im assuming this is a code sixteen, but maybe im misreading it. I know my iat sensor is bad but that shouldn't keep it from starting.
I'm using the hf distributor

what is a code 16 on a pr3 and how can i get this thing to start and clear these codes?

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you say you used a PR3 ecu also? isnt that a B16A OBD0 ECU? Would that ecu even work

 

Car would still work with it but it will run in limp mode. It would hit the rev limiter at around 2500-3000 RPM's. I know from Experience lol.

 

i havent messed with any pins on the ecu
i will try checking the continuity
my throttle body is fine
is the ECT sensor the one on the thermostat housing or on the head under the dizzy?
i replaced the one under the dizz already
as for the IAT its not hooked up right now cuz im using a y8 manifold so theres no place for it

Why would the pr3 make my car run limp mode?
it's an mpfi obd0 ecu and a mpfi obd0 car.

thanks for all your help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaakro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do you say you used a PR3 ecu also? isnt that a B16A OBD0 ECU? Would that ecu even work</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha yes it will work in any similar pgm-fi system... I plugged one into my hf when I had it (stock engine) and drove it around the block, but it was running sooooo rich the engine would bog WAY down so I could only do like 1/8 throttle LOL and it only gave vtec error codes

as for the iat sensor, just put a 20K-Ohm resistor in the plug so it doesn't give you an error code.... besides it will "add at least 15hp" according to ebay "chips" LOL.... theoretically it will add slightly more fuel but its probably very hard to measure the difference heh...

and the ECT sensor... I wonder if its the two-pin connection directly above the oil flter on the back of the block... not sure exactly but you basically have to remove the intake manifold if you want easy access to it heh. it could just be a wire unplugged

 

the two prong plug was on my old motor but on the zc vtec it is moved to the thermo housing. I spliced the wires going to the one on the block to a connector for the one on the thermo