trying to find out if my car needs for the base timing to be reseted . it's a 96 honda accord 4 cycl. 2.2 non vtec. when I push gas it sputters and when I ease off it accelerates fine it also is overheating and I was told that the base ignition timing could have a lot to w/ that . So if you could help out to see if it needs this and how to do this.thanx

 

You should pick up a good shop manual, they're great for reference.

Anyhow, if your timing is off.....then that directly coincides with your cam gear being (+/-) a tooth off from the crank shaft. This could have happened if the belt was replaced improperly......only way to resolve this is to pull the thing and line up all of the timing marks on the cam, crank, etc. before replacing the belt. This is not likely, but it is possible. I refered to my shop manual when I replaced mine.

Anyone else have input/suggestions?

 

First off, have you had any work done recently such as timing belt replacement or distributor work that would cause the timing to have been moved. Cars don't just go out of time. Stumbling on acceleration has many causes as does overheating so we need some more info. Check if both of your cooling fans are running when the a/c is on. If not or if only one fan is running let us know. Does it overheat while driving down the road or only at idle? When was the last time you changed the plugs, wires, rotor and cap?

 

I changed out the motor and had to take the timing belt to put in crank position sensor . The crank shaft was off a bout half a tooth so I moved it back to the mark on the block. the cam sprocket was still at tdc or at least looked straight up still. The only one that off mark waas the water pump which was half a tooth off. I was wondering als o if the base timing mode could be the culprit of making the car overheat and sputter.Both fans do work and put distributor in time also by rotoating it 180 degrees so when the car is at tdc the rotor is pointing at cyclinder on the cap. Check to see if the # 1 cyclinder was up and it was. so Thats why I'm thinking it the base timing .

 

What you're saying is that you indexed the rotor to the cap pin on cylinder #1(so that the plug in #1 would be firing), and the piston in cylinder #1 was at TDC......then you put the belt on?

 

check to make sure you have the wires set right it should 1 3 4 2 clockwise

 

Return you engine to TDC and check the marks again. Does it overheat driving or while idling?

 

No doubt about it, that water pump being a tooth off can cause really serious problems......You replaced the engine and couldn't fork out a few bucks for a new T-stat?

 

DUDE IF UR TIMING WAS DPOEN AND U SAY U WER EOFF THE MARK ALIL AND NOT THE CAM THEN STR8 UP UR PROB IS IMPROPER TENSION IN THE TIMING BELT WHICH IS GIVING U A LAZY IGNITION AND IMPORPER REVOLUTIONS ON UR WATERPUMP MAYBE UR TIMING BELT TENSIONER CNA BE FAULTY I BELIV EU HAVE A SOHC CAM EMGIENIF SO HTEN IS REAL EASY IF IS A DUAL OVER HEAD THEN IS A BIT MORE COMPLICATED TO PROPERLY TENSION THE BELT REMBER WHEN PUTTIGN TENSION ON THE BELT IT HAS TO BE IN A SPECIFIC SET ORDER AND ON THE COREECT SIDE I DONT RELALY FUG WITH SOHC SO I DOTN KNWO OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD BUT FOR DOHC ENGINES U GOTTA THROW THE CAM ADN CRANK MARKS OFF ONE TOOTH PUT HTE BELT ON ADN TURN THE CAMS TO THE MK AND LCOK THEM AND THEN TURN THE CRANK TO THE MARK ADN MAKE SURE U MOVE TEH BELT SALCK COMING FROM TOP AND BOOTOM TOWARDS THE TENSIONER AND HTEN HODL THE TENSIONER UP AND TITEN. BUT TO CHK IF U AR EOFF OEN TOOTH WHICH CANNNNNNN HAPPEN ONLY IF UR TIMING BELT HAS IMPROPER TENSION AND CAN OCCUR WHIEL SHIFTING EXPECILLAY WHEN REVING HIGH AND SLAMMIGN GEARS BEST AND EASIST WAY TO CH KIS THE DISTRIBUTOR WUTU DO IS LOOSEN UP HTE BLOTS FOR THE DIZZY AND HAVE SOMEONE START THE CAR WHIEL U HOLD THE DIZZY FIRMLY THEN WHIEL THE ENGIEN IS RUNNIG START ROATATING THE DIZZY LEFT AND RITE AND SEE IF U FEEL OR HEAR THE ENGIEN INCREASING OR DECREASING IS REVS OR WUT NOT IF THE ENGIEN DOES NOT RESPOND U ARE TOTTALY OFFF ON THE CAM ADN CRANK AND EVEN IF U ARE OFF ON THE MARKS U CAN STILL PICK UP IGNITION AND RUN TEH CAR BUT WITH LOTS OF PROBS NOW IF UR ENGIEN DOES REPSOND THEN UR TIMING IS CORRECT BUT CHK UR TIMING BELT TENSION AND SEE IF IT CORRECT ANYWAY HIT ME UP IF U HAVE ANY QUESTIONS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frank_O &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trying to find out if my car needs for the base timing to be reseted . it's a 96 honda accord 4 cycl. 2.2 non vtec. when I push gas it sputters and when I ease off it accelerates fine it also is overheating and I was told that the base ignition timing could have a lot to w/ that . So if you could help out to see if it needs this and how to do this.thanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off the water pump CANNOT be a tooth off , there is no set way to install the water pump, you can spin the pulley till hell freezes over and would not matter where you wrap the timing belt around it,,, what you might mean is the Oil pump maybe????.........,,

Secondly the distributor CANNOT be installed wrong there is only 1 way it will go in ...

here is what you can try........get a timing lite and chk where timing is set at.........with timing lite set at zero, engine at normal operating temp , the notch on the lower timing belt cover should line up with the RED mark on the crank pulley , there are 3 mark close to each other and a WHITE mark a bit off, the white mark is TOP DEAD CENTER ,,,,, the RED mark is where timing should be set at , the other 2 marks next to the red are 2 degrees advance and 2 degrees retart.....
If timing is on the RED mark then your timing belt was installed properly,,,,,,,,,
If you cannot see the red mark then cam timing is off............If it is off
Remove valve cover, line up the notch on the lower timing belt cover to the WHITE mark on the crank pulley ,,,,You are now at TOP DEAD CENTER ...there are 2 notches on the cam pulley they should line up with the head no matter if you are on top dead 1 or top dead 4 ,, if they do not line up......... remove upper timing belt cover,,,make sure the up mark on the cam pulley is up you are on top dead 1 this way + it will make it easier for next step,,,, we are going to reset your cam timing ,,,,,,,Do not loosen up the timing belt tensioner unless belt has a lot of slack .put a rag in the openings at lower timing belt cover we do not want anything to fall in there ,,
.. loosen the cam pulley 12 mm bolt do not remove it yet ,,, now slip the timing belt off the pulley , make sure the marks on the lower cover and crank pulley are still aligned.. Now rotate camshaft till notches are even with the head , once done, remove the cam pulley again carful about the woodruf key,, Now slip the belt on the cam pulley while it if off, align the pulley opening and the cam opening and put the cam pulley on ,,now insert the woodruf key in the alignment hole , install the 12mm bolt, tighten it up,, double chk make sure all the marks line up , put everything back together ,, your timing will be on,,,,,,,,,,,,

If you think that the oil pump is not aligned properly that has to do with the balancer belt it will not affect ignition timing but it will affect balencer shafts timing it will cause some engine shaking ( vibration ) the only way to line it up is to remove lower timing belt cover
.............if you do the job let me know how it turns out ..