When I am in high rev, letting off the throttle...I hear popping sounds...

The sound is similar to tire hitting bumps. I first thought it was the suspension, but when I put it in neutral, the sound disappears...so it is the engine.

Also, what spark plaugs should I use for k20A Type R? Are they same as the Type S sparks?

Also, another thing, the Clutch...is it the same as Type S or not?

Thank you for input!

 

is this the type r engine you are talking about? mods? what kind of car do you have it in? this could be a number of things. Check your engine mounts to see if they are loose.

 

Its the Type R, from a DC5 R. It is now in a civic ES 4 door body.

I am not sure if it would be the engine mounts, because when I put the car in neutral travelling at that speed, the car becomes quiet without any pops anymore...

What are the possibilities? What could this be?

Thanks!

 

First off, what kind of engine management are you using? DC5-R Ecu? What kind of exhaust are you running for the swap? I'm very sure that the spark plugs are the same between the Type S and Type R. Are you running an aftermarket clutch? Most, if not all, aftermarket clutches I've seen for the K-series say they'll work for the Type S or Type R. I know the flywheels are different. Need a little bit more info from you.

Edit: BTW, welcome to the K-swap club

 

I am using Hondata K-Pro, and using stock exhaust from the DC5 R, with small bit of modification.

Everything about the negine is stock except for the Hondata. Had it tuned once on the dyno to get around 180 HP on the wheels.

The clutch I think is aftermarket, since it is harder than normal, but the bite is still pretty good. It also makes a sound when it is engaging when the clutch is still cold...the sound of airplane brakes (for lack of a better description) but not as lound, just very faint.

Thanks, I love being in the K-swap club! haha!

 

Are you using the stock exhaust manifold or an aftermarket header? Cat/Catless? You don't experience this sound when letting off during regular driving(low/mid rpms)? Only when letting off in the higher rpms(let's say 6k+)? Have you tuned it much? Doesn't really sound like it since 180whp on a K20a is honestly a pretty pathetic number for that engine. What bolt-ons are you running? PS/AC?

The only thing that really comes to mind right off the bat is that the engine is running a little rich in the high-rpm region, which could easily be resolved with more tuning. Who did the original tuning?

 

Original Tuning, was using the baseline program that came back with the K-Pro...It resulted in knocking, which is probably because of the fuel grade here. They dyno tuned it for about 2 hours to get rid of the knocking...

I am using stock everything...The Cat, well, if the japanese version came with cat, it is there too. We tried not to modify anything so as to keep it as stock as possible. I even have the stock airbox with paper filters.

It does not happen when I let off on lower RPMs, but the engine does not sound as smooth when I am feathering the throttle at 5,000 RPMS. Have no bolt ons at all! Still have all the stock factory accessoris like A/C...sorry to be an idiot but what is PS/AC?

Is 180 whp really pathetic? I thought it was pretty decent since the engine is rated to be 220ps or hp (I am assuming before drivetrain loss) which is roughly 18% drivetrain loss.

I am starting to learn the K-Pro software now, but of course, I am new to tuning...I just know tha basics. and I will have another more experienced person to also help out, but the conclusion we got is that dyno tuning is good for max power, but for daily street driveability, we need to do some real world driving and review the data logs...

 

Yeah, seems to me like you just need to tune it more. As far as keeping everything stock, you'll notice a huge difference in the K20a with the usual bolt-ons(I/H/E). I imagine you could see close to 210whp with a good tune. Crap, my K20a2 saw 195whp with just an CAI and RH(catless).

The PS/AC was just a reference to Power Steering and Air Conditioning, just wondering if you're running either or both of those. My swap has neither. So all in all that I can tell so far is that you have to do some more tuning on the top end, you might be running a little rich up there. Good luck.

 

hmm ... either sounds like you're backfiring or detonating ...

either way .... find a better tuner!

bone stock K20a3 = ~135 whp
bone stock K20a2 = ~165 whp
bone stock K20a = ~185 whp

if you want me to prove that, I'll fetch some dyno graphs.


Modified by aznboysrfr at 1:08 PM 10/7/2005

 

what octane fuel are you running?