TWM ITB Install on a K20a2
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: eugene, or, usa
TWM ITB Install on a K20a2
TWM ITB Install on a K20a2
Ok guys first off im know going to go into huge amount of detail on how to take parts off and put other stock parts back on. Im just going to go into detail about the install process of the itbs.
First thing that needs to be done is uninstalling the stock parts. IM/TB/Intake system/water pump housing/ps pump and lines. After you take the lines out of the steering rack you need to plug the feed/return holes. I just used two bolts and bolted them in and called it a day and it works perfectly. Once you get the water pump housing off the car you have to take the belt tensioner off which will not go back on. Now that it is off you simply need to grind down or saw off (sawing is easier) the lobe on top of the pump housing. In order for the linkage to move freely you must grind down the lobe all the way until you are pretty much exposing the threading. (i will post pics of everything im talking bout). What i did was saw off the lobe then put it back onto the block. At this point you can no install the ITBS. First thing before you put them on is getting either a D series or B series IAT sensor to put into the ITBS. The K20 IAT will not fit. Once that is done you install the itbs onto the head. Once you get it TQ'd down to spec (used oem IM specs) Now is the time to go back to the linkage/water pump problem. Now that they are both back on the motor move the linkage back to the housing see were it hits. Grind/saw from there until it passes freely. Now you have to deal with the MAP Sensor. The way I mounted the MAP Sensor was easy. I went down to the local fastener/hardware store and bought a peice that would go into the ITBs and on the other side had the ribbed edges so if you put a hose over it it very hard to pull off. This peice must be same size as the hose that connects to the MAP so you can plug both sides in. Since it is roughly a foot away from where it normally is you must extend the harness so it will reach the opposite side of the ITBs and plug into the MAP. Next is a fuel pressure gauge. Easy I bought two 45 degree peices that fit on the fuel rail and onto the FPG and then just simply put it in. Thats pretty much the basic install part. Since I havent put this motor combo into a EG I cant go into detail about the fuel system.
Since I did put these into my RSX I can talk about the fuel system. This part is a pain with the RSX. First off we had to cut my stock fuel feed line because it was too short to feed to the ITBS. I got some high pressure fuel line and fittings and then just connect it all together(we did have to flare the stock line with a flaring tool then connect the high pressure line and to make sure we used a house clamp and it worked perfect.. Well the TWM ITBS require a fuel return line. The rsx is a fuel returnless system. So in using these ITBS we had to make a fuel return line. The way this was done was pretty simple, I took a fuel line off a old eg shell that I Had and just ran that all the way from the fuel tank to the front of the car. On the fuel tank side I took a piece of high pressure brake line with the end that hooks up the the brake caliper and connected it to the hardline. I then had to drill a hole through the top of the fuel pump housing. Then took a bolt drilled through the center and the top so that when I put it through the opening of the brake house the fuel that comes back through the line will drain through it (same as the bolt that goes to the braks has hole through center and then towards the top). Once you get this to work you must take out the fuel pump hosing and bypass the regulater thats in the housing. All you have to do for this is take the hose that connect the FPR to the feedline then plug the top of the housing that the FPR line went into. Then just take a lock nut and tighten it to the underside of the bolt so it wil not come out of the housing.(sorry i dont know what certain peices are called but you will know what Im talking about when seeing the pics. Its weird I can work on calls all day long but can never remeber the vocab) Now to the other end. I took a peice of hardline and some more high pressure hose and connected the second peice of hardline to the hardline that runs to the fuel tank. I had somebody sodder (however spelt) a fitting to the end of the hard line so we can put a earl fitting on it and connect it to some SS lines and then to another earl fitting that would fit to the return spot on the fuel rail. So back to me getting those 2 45 degree angle fittings for the fuel pressure gauge. The reason for this is because the closer the gauge is to the fuel rail the more accurate the reading is. I wanted this and still wanted to clear the hood. So take those 2 fittings moves them around like in the pic for the gauge and it will fit under the hood.
Well thats my write up guys. Im really busy today and wanted to get it out for NIKOS especially. So i took a quick re read and it seems decent not the best so I apologize for that. I will post a bunchof pics of the install. IF you have any other questions feel free to ask me.. If i missed anything let me know and I will go over it
Ok guys first off im know going to go into huge amount of detail on how to take parts off and put other stock parts back on. Im just going to go into detail about the install process of the itbs.
First thing that needs to be done is uninstalling the stock parts. IM/TB/Intake system/water pump housing/ps pump and lines. After you take the lines out of the steering rack you need to plug the feed/return holes. I just used two bolts and bolted them in and called it a day and it works perfectly. Once you get the water pump housing off the car you have to take the belt tensioner off which will not go back on. Now that it is off you simply need to grind down or saw off (sawing is easier) the lobe on top of the pump housing. In order for the linkage to move freely you must grind down the lobe all the way until you are pretty much exposing the threading. (i will post pics of everything im talking bout). What i did was saw off the lobe then put it back onto the block. At this point you can no install the ITBS. First thing before you put them on is getting either a D series or B series IAT sensor to put into the ITBS. The K20 IAT will not fit. Once that is done you install the itbs onto the head. Once you get it TQ'd down to spec (used oem IM specs) Now is the time to go back to the linkage/water pump problem. Now that they are both back on the motor move the linkage back to the housing see were it hits. Grind/saw from there until it passes freely. Now you have to deal with the MAP Sensor. The way I mounted the MAP Sensor was easy. I went down to the local fastener/hardware store and bought a peice that would go into the ITBs and on the other side had the ribbed edges so if you put a hose over it it very hard to pull off. This peice must be same size as the hose that connects to the MAP so you can plug both sides in. Since it is roughly a foot away from where it normally is you must extend the harness so it will reach the opposite side of the ITBs and plug into the MAP. Next is a fuel pressure gauge. Easy I bought two 45 degree peices that fit on the fuel rail and onto the FPG and then just simply put it in. Thats pretty much the basic install part. Since I havent put this motor combo into a EG I cant go into detail about the fuel system.
Since I did put these into my RSX I can talk about the fuel system. This part is a pain with the RSX. First off we had to cut my stock fuel feed line because it was too short to feed to the ITBS. I got some high pressure fuel line and fittings and then just connect it all together(we did have to flare the stock line with a flaring tool then connect the high pressure line and to make sure we used a house clamp and it worked perfect.. Well the TWM ITBS require a fuel return line. The rsx is a fuel returnless system. So in using these ITBS we had to make a fuel return line. The way this was done was pretty simple, I took a fuel line off a old eg shell that I Had and just ran that all the way from the fuel tank to the front of the car. On the fuel tank side I took a piece of high pressure brake line with the end that hooks up the the brake caliper and connected it to the hardline. I then had to drill a hole through the top of the fuel pump housing. Then took a bolt drilled through the center and the top so that when I put it through the opening of the brake house the fuel that comes back through the line will drain through it (same as the bolt that goes to the braks has hole through center and then towards the top). Once you get this to work you must take out the fuel pump hosing and bypass the regulater thats in the housing. All you have to do for this is take the hose that connect the FPR to the feedline then plug the top of the housing that the FPR line went into. Then just take a lock nut and tighten it to the underside of the bolt so it wil not come out of the housing.(sorry i dont know what certain peices are called but you will know what Im talking about when seeing the pics. Its weird I can work on calls all day long but can never remeber the vocab) Now to the other end. I took a peice of hardline and some more high pressure hose and connected the second peice of hardline to the hardline that runs to the fuel tank. I had somebody sodder (however spelt) a fitting to the end of the hard line so we can put a earl fitting on it and connect it to some SS lines and then to another earl fitting that would fit to the return spot on the fuel rail. So back to me getting those 2 45 degree angle fittings for the fuel pressure gauge. The reason for this is because the closer the gauge is to the fuel rail the more accurate the reading is. I wanted this and still wanted to clear the hood. So take those 2 fittings moves them around like in the pic for the gauge and it will fit under the hood.
Well thats my write up guys. Im really busy today and wanted to get it out for NIKOS especially. So i took a quick re read and it seems decent not the best so I apologize for that. I will post a bunchof pics of the install. IF you have any other questions feel free to ask me.. If i missed anything let me know and I will go over it
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: eugene, or, usa
Re: TWM ITB Install on a K20a2 (chad_everson)
those are the bolts i used to plug the lines.. only bolt i could find was too long thats why it looks like that
here is the pump housing i didnt care bout looks jsut fitment so as soon as i got it to fit i left it. Notice how the further i get down told the bolt the more i have to grind. just dont grind too far.
the bolt i used for the map sensor
map sensor in
picture of the fuel return line
fuel return line
here is a pic of the fuel feed line connected to the stock feed line. I forgot to add in the write up we flared out the stock line then put the high pressure line over it the hose clamped it. works perfect.
pic of the FPR and a lil pic of the MAp sensor
pic of the fuel return line
pic of the linkage and housing and the itbs clearing the hood.
if you want more pics/vids go to
http://04pwpdc5.com/itbcamsinstall/
chad
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 61
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From: Dayton, Ohio, USA
Re: TWM ITB Install on a K20a2 (ReV LiMiT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReV LiMiT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one question, though not pertaining to the itb install, how did you get your gauges in different colors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Most cars you can swap the bulbs/leds or put covers on them. It looks like he has just installed blue leds. I am sure someone somewhere has a write up on this for the RSX.
Most cars you can swap the bulbs/leds or put covers on them. It looks like he has just installed blue leds. I am sure someone somewhere has a write up on this for the RSX.
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From: san salvador, n/a, el salvador
MAYBE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH MY PROBLEM...https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1390786, I WAS WONDERING IF I CAN MOVE THE OXYGEN SENSOR ... SO IT WONT BE CLOSER MAKIN THAT THE HEAT OF THE MOTOR DONT ACTIVATE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: eugene, or, usa
i will be doin another one here shortly on how to install rsx dash center console gauge cluster and door panels into a eg hatch. topdogg i replied to you in your thread.
chad
chad
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 492
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From: Seattle, WA
Re: (chad_everson)
Hey Chad, could you do a writeup on putting the RSX cluster into an EG? I still have my RSX cluster sitting around and would love to swap it. Awesome job on the ITB install. I would love to do this if it wasn't for money and having to chop the hood on my swap. If I could find a full hood that would work(with a slight bulge) the ITB's would definately be on my "to buy" list.
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