I was driving on the freeway today and when I exit, I hear a "clink" sound and something start rattling. My first thought was the motor is pinging. I pulled into a gas station about a block from the exit. I look and this is what i found.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proc...u1ZM0
The bolt of the pulley stripped off
http://im1.shutterfly.com/proc...u1ZM0

I'll have to replace the bolt. I beleive it's from the AC. I don't think anything has damages in the engine because i was able to drive the car into the garage without any nosie after the car tow home. Do you guys think there is any damages to the motor? I have don't the compression test or open the motor yet. Thanks.

 

Did you just have the belts replaced?

 

Nope. I did pulled the JRSC off to get it rebuild about a year ago. I'm thinking the mechanic over tighten it at that time. That's just my guess.

i'm just worry that something might happen to the engine.

 

No, something similar happened to me a little while back.
The engine/motor's fine. Just no A/C till you get it fixed.

The bolt itself can obviously be ordered and purchased from Acura.
There is a little more involved in the fix, but nothing serious.

 

Thanks.

How did you get the broken bolt out? Do you have to lower the engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SamC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you get the broken bolt out? Do you have to lower the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be perfectly honest, I was informed that it might have been tightened just a squosh (sp) too much, and that this type of failuer was possible.
I haven't fixed it yet on my own car, but I don't see any reason then or now to have to "drop" the motor. Worst case might be removing the A/C bracket/torque mount and drilling out the broken thread/installing the new assembly/tensioner with a new bolt (with a little less tension/torque).

In the mean time since I also took off the PS belt, I'm looking forward to taking the car to the dyno and putting down some mid 180 numbers on a Dynojet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SamC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you get the broken bolt out? Do you have to lower the engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have done this before for my friend. Simply unbolt the AC bracket from the engine and compressor. Get a bolt extractor from Snap-On or any tool company. Use a drill bit, usually supplied with the extractor, to drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt's shank. Stick the extractor in the newly drilled hole and remove the bolt.

Good Luck

 

i had the same thing happen..tension pulley for the ac belt fell off (bolt backed out) on the way to atl....made me real mad and threw all the a/c stuff in the garbage..power steering will be gone this weekend

 

Same thing happened to my JDM B18C-R. I had to buy the Bolt at a Local Honda from a Del Sol. The Bolt took almost a week to get, they do not stock it and would be special order.

Anyways, I brought to local shop to take out what's left of the bolt and install the new one.

The guy took less than 3 min. to complete it, when I asked why it was so fast he said that the remaining part of the Bolt just came right out without extracting it.

Lucky, I did not drive much because the belt was still rubbing if I had my motor running.

 

Is the bolt number 23? thanks.

Just found the part number for #23. 90054-P30-000


Modified by SamC at 11:28 AM 9/28/2005

 

Seems like this has happened to a few of you guys. I thought that it was a really rare occurance when it happened to my friend's car but, I guess it must have to do with overtightening the belt.

 

Same thing happened to me with the JRSC...soemone had over tightened the bolt. IT happened to me uppon decelration at obut 90mph on the highway at 3am in about 30 miles outside of phoenix.

I cut the belt off, and limped home....it took out my crank pulley, tensioner pullies, supercharger belt and alternator belt.

Luckily once i got to looking at the remnants of hte bolt still in the block, i noticed that it would freely turn with the tip of my finger.

Moral of the story don't let anyone touch your ****. and always tighten to factory specs.

 

anyone one know the torque spec for the a/c pivot bolt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SamC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone one know the torque spec for the a/c pivot bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have my Helms right here and it's showing 33 lb-ft.

 

same thing happened to me a while back after the swap.. overtightening = sheared off bolt. :shrugs:.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmk2888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The guy took less than 3 min. to complete it, when I asked why it was so fast he said that the remaining part of the Bolt just came right out without extracting it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That makes sense, the bolt shouldn't have any tension on it once the head sheared. If it does stick at all, you can try to turn the nub CCW with a chisel by lightly tapping at the edge. Once it moves, it should come out with just fingers.

 

a few more questions....

1) I couldn't figure out how to fit the torque the a/c pivot bolt. I could get the torque wrench in the tight space.

2) Also, How do I know if the A/C belt have the proper tension. I'm not sure if it's too loose or not. Any suggested methods? (The tension gauge won't fit in the tight spot as well) Or maybe some one can explain the tension method in helm for me.

Thanks.

 

Just hand tighten it with a small ratchet ~20lbs w/loctite on it. BTW - I would replace the stock bolt with a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store too. Simple, but effective.

 

Thanks. How do I check the tension?

 

tension is set before that bolt is tightened up. I just eye-ball it lifting up on the widest section of belt so there's ~1/2" of flex.