just finished looking at the archives but didn't find anything relevant. i just finished bypassing the coolant flow on my iac valve and throttle body. started it up, idle stays at 1200+rpm, even when the engine is fully warmed up. most of the posts i read say that idle should go down to normal once the engine is hot. does anybody have the same experience?

 

you can adjust the idle screw to lower the idle..

 

never mind, i found the problem, forgot to reconnect the vaccum line at the back of the manifold. now it idles like stock, and the intake manifold and tb is cooler to the touch. overall a worthwhile mod. tnx for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just finished looking at the archives but didn't find anything relevant. i just finished bypassing the coolant flow on my iac valve and throttle body. started it up, idle stays at 1200+rpm, even when the engine is fully warmed up. most of the posts i read say that idle should go down to normal once the engine is hot. does anybody have the same experience?</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you do this?

 

you disconnect the longer coolant hose from the iacv, then connect it to the small nozzle on the intake manifold where the hose with the metal tube plugs in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you disconnect the longer coolant hose from the iacv, then connect it to the small nozzle on the intake manifold where the hose with the metal tube plugs in </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you be a little more specific ? which nozzle on the intake manifold ?

 

You just made me decide to disable viewing signatures.

 

search the archives, i remember seeing a post that had diagrams of what i'm talking about

 

now bypass it from your intake flange.

 

1.) Get hondata heatshield in race form
2.) Remove all unnecessary lines and plug unused ports

 

yeah hondata intake gasket is the next logical step, unfortunately it's not available here. i'm thinking about getting one that's made locally, phenolic plywood material! hehe

 

my idle stays high a bit longer than normal...and some cool/cold nights it wont drop below 1000rpm. no big deal

 

Has there been any factual data to back up this mod? True, theoretically it should allow cooler air to enter the TB, but I've never heard anyone who has done this mod say that they've noticed a difference in performance. Not trying to badmouth this mod, just wondering if anyone has done any real testing...

 

John, I wish I still had my AEM ECU so I could have seen the before and after temps, but unfortunately I dont. Basically I only decided to do this because it doesnt hurt anything and in theory it should help, so why not? The only "concrete" evidence I have seen is that my IM/TB doesnt get scorching hot like it used to. It still gets warm but doesnt burn my hand off. And I must say that on cool or cold nights, my IM/TB is actually still cool to the touch, unless the car has been sitting still and idling for awhile.

 

i don't think it actually improves performance. it reduces performance losses that result from a heat soaked engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">John, I wish I still had my AEM ECU so I could have seen the before and after temps, but unfortunately I dont. Basically I only decided to do this because it doesnt hurt anything and in theory it should help, so why not? The only "concrete" evidence I have seen is that my IM/TB doesnt get scorching hot like it used to. It still gets warm but doesnt burn my hand off. And I must say that on cool or cold nights, my IM/TB is actually still cool to the touch, unless the car has been sitting still and idling for awhile. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting. Supposedly, in really cold days, your TB will seize up if the coolant line is bypassed. Of course, that could also just be a rumor. hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Interesting. Supposedly, in really cold days, your TB will seize up if the coolant line is bypassed. Of course, that could also just be a rumor. hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>

theoretically it could also do it without it bypassed..

it won't seize, it will be fine..

 

as far as "seizing" goes, I heard that rumor as well but it was more along the lines that the TB wouldnt close fully or would stick partly open, causing a high idle. I have driven my car in the cold for long periods of time, on the highway, and it has not "seized" up like some people say it will do. Furthermore, I would think it would be more likely to "seize" if you were running nitrous which is hella cold

 

it doesn't not fully close or partially stay open..

the FICV is a wax plunger type valve that when the coolant heats up, it expands and therefore closes the extra bypass on the TB for when you first start the car to keep it idling high.. it never closes, so that airflow is constantly there, keeping the idle high.. but you can dial that back out some using the idle adjustment screw.. or just let it idle high..

 

I'm going with the Hondata IM gasket shortly and I'm curious to a few answer here. You can just adjust the idle to bring it back down sure. Also mine will be for the race car so it "freezing" from cold temps wont be a problem also I'm in FL so again not an issue.

 

You could park it in the dead of winter in montreal and it's not gonna freeze..