i just put my b18c swap in my 94 rs, and i thought the head sounded a little loud. i checked all the valves with the feeler gauges, and some were a little tight, and some were a litle loose ( never adjusted after put new valve seals in )
so i adjust them with the correct tools ( the matco tool ) to the correct tolerrances which i believe was .07-.08 car sat all night so it was dead cold when i did it also.

but the head still sounds like it has some valve train noise. motor hasnt rain in over a year, bc it was on the stand getting put together ( took awhile im a broke *** college student ) but i was just wondering do you think it will quiet down after its been ran a little while longer ? i dont see how it would matter.

and my motor also acts like it has a vacum leak with a wandering idle/ high idle
motor is an obd2 b18c. and car is a 94 teg RS. i checked all the possible things for vacum leak even changed the throttle body back to the ls one for a line on top of the tb. put a whole top end gasket kit from honda on it when i put the motor together so it has all new gaskets... i cant seem to figure it out. other than that it runs fine. vtec isnt wired up as of yet, and thats the only code it throws is for vtec so idk what to do about the stupid wandering idle thing... im stumped. car also seems to be missing at an idle when it holds a solid 850-9oo. but when you give it gas its fine, and it doenst hesitate or anything like that while driving. im running shitty 87 in it ( bc i had like a half tank in it before i tore it down ) im gonna throw some 100 octane in it and hopefully thats what the cause of that is. any thoughts suggestions ?


any info would be greatly appreciated

 

possibly it's your injectors your hearing.

take a screwdriver and put the handle end to your ear and touch the drive side to different places on the valve cover and then touch your injectors.

This may help you determine where the noise is coming from.

 

thanks ill be checking that today

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAguyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly it's your injectors your hearing.

take a screwdriver and put the handle end to your ear and touch the drive side to different places on the valve cover and then touch your injectors.

This may help you determine where the noise is coming from.</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably. my injectors are HELLA loud, but the valvetrain is almost silent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAguyLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly it's your injectors your hearing.

take a screwdriver and put the handle end to your ear and touch the drive side to different places on the valve cover and then touch your injectors.

This may help you determine where the noise is coming from.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what i do.

 

or if u have an automotive stethiscope u can use that, also use wd40 and spray on areas that might have a vacume leak. If you spray an area that is a leak the rpms should raise

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkDragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or if u have an automotive stethiscope u can use that, also use wd40 and spray on areas that might have a vacume leak. If you spray an area that is a leak the rpms should raise</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe automotive stethoscope=fairly long screwdriver with large handle
good advice for vacuum leaks, too

 

I had a problem like this in a B16 that was in a CRX, did a valve adjustment still heard the same noise. We noticed that the VTEC engagement plungers? were sticking. Not sure of the correct term to use for the VTEC engagement, but they got stuck up so the noise wouldn't go away till the VTEC fully engaged. I think he had the problem because he had a VTEC controller that was set to a super low rpm and would always be engaged and I think it screwed up the engagement plungers in the engine making them get stuck. Hope this might help you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstolars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a problem like this in a B16 that was in a CRX, did a valve adjustment still heard the same noise. We noticed that the VTEC engagement plungers? were sticking. Not sure of the correct term to use for the VTEC engagement, but they got stuck up so the noise wouldn't go away till the VTEC fully engaged. I think he had the problem because he had a VTEC controller that was set to a super low rpm and would always be engaged and I think it screwed up the engagement plungers in the engine making them get stuck. Hope this might help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
probably had more to do with the lost motion assemblies being either worn/defective or being installed or worked with improperly (which would cause defective unit). happens sometimes with cam installation. ditch 'em and get new ones or get prelude ones with a shim. read up on that .

 

agreed^ i got my money on the lost motion assemblies cause i changed my buddies who was having the same problem with his b16, that he swap into a crx, the damn things were rusted and were the cause of the noise

 

yea. i tightened them to a .08 tolerance and before, and it quieted up but a buddy of mine said he tightens his to a .06 on his GSR so that should cure the problem. ( wasnt as loud as i thought. didnt know vtec heads were a little noisy naturally)

now just to find the vacum leak somewhere.

theres a gnarly exhaust leak from the exhaust mani. bc the one stud was fucked. and the vtec selenoid and knock isnt wired up into my harness yet( only pulling code for vtec though) ....you think it would have anything to do with a wandering idle from 1100-1300 ? other than that the motor runs fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gssr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">agreed^ i got my money on the lost motion assemblies cause i changed my buddies who was having the same problem with his b16, that he swap into a crx, the damn things were rusted and were the cause of the noise</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, that's the problem with a head that sits for too long waiting to be sold. rust . . . evil .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-series ninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea. i tightened them to a .08 tolerance and before, and it quieted up but a buddy of mine said he tightens his to a .06 on his GSR so that should cure the problem. ( wasnt as loud as i thought. didnt know vtec heads were a little noisy naturally)</TD></TR></TABLE>
watch out for going tighter than spec. you need to leave room for thermal expansion properties of the metals of the cams and other valvetrain parts. get it too tight and there will be negative clearance meaning that there will be some serious extra stress going on in there and SNAP a cam or float a valve or something. so yeah, it's better to have a little noise than have negative clearance at temperature.