Yesterday I was out in my car and I started to hear a slight rattle coming from the engine bay. I didn't think much of it figured it was a heat sheild because I just recently had one that was rattling. About 5 mintues later it continued to rattle and get a bit louder so i pulled over and was listening to the rattle and it sounded like it was coming from inside the cylinder head. I drove it a couple blocks further to a safe place were I could leave it and by the time I got there I was listening to it again and it was knocking at this point.

Oil pressure did not decrease and there was no signs of smoke or fluids leaking. Also the car drove perfect no loss of power or anything. This leads me to beleive that the problem is in the head. I wont get a chance to tear the head down untill tomorrow so I figured I would get some input.

 

any ideas?

 

loose valve adjustment nut?

 

Its def. possible. Thats what I was actually thinking or a broken rocker arm.

 

I have a question about the knock sensor if the knocking was coming from my block would the knock sensor cause a CEL or would it just automatically retard timing with out causing a CEL?

 

it would just retard timing.
But valvetrain noise would not trigger it, it needs to be certain frequence.

 

Alright thanks. Tomorrow I will start tearing it down a bit hopefully the problem is in the head.

 

Interesting I just pulled the CEL codes and i'm getting a missifre in every cylinder.

 

I got the same code on my car, when I checked. Id check the timing, mine had the same symtoms, and my timing was way off.

 

So your were getting a loud knock from your car too? It's so loud on my car i dont even want to turn it back on to check the timing. I already took the head apart everything seems fine in there from what i can see. I didn't pull it off the block yet. Also i pulled the oil pan no signs of metal shavings or anything.

 

Yea man, it was loud as hell. But, mine went away at higher RPM's, like about 4 grand. Its funny though, because I adjusted the valves and everything.

 

Oh nice when I did have the car running the other day I didn't bother to take it to higher rpms. I was too scared. Did your car drive fine? Mine didnt seem to have any signs of loss of power or anything (this was before the CELs came on, but the knocking was present).

So today i'm going to put the head back on and bolt the oil pan back up. If the compression comes out good then I know my valves are fine. Also how did your timing change so much while you were driving? This just came out of no where for me so maybe my belt jumped or developed wear on it.

Thanks for all your help, keep it comnig.

 

My timing jumped because the engine broke the keyway off of the inside of the timing belt drive pulley. It jammed like 45 degrees advanced, im not even sure how it ran....lmao.

 

hmm very interesting. I'm going to have to take a better look at the belt and pulleys. Your problem sounds so much like mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My timing jumped because the engine broke the keyway off of the inside of the timing belt drive pulley. It jammed like 45 degrees advanced, im not even sure how it ran....lmao.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn thats amazing you didnt bend or break anything

 

I guess i was not so lucky cylinder 3 looked really bad on the compression test. Oh well time for a rebuild.

 

Don't be so quick to rebuild... why don't you just adjust the valves first?

 

I guess it cant hurt to try. But when i added a cap of oil to the weak cylinder it jumped from 90 to 120. So doesnt that mean its my rings?