Will a Walbro255 cause RICH motor.?
I have a b16 when i did the swap my pump was bad so i put a 255 on stock FPR.
I belive its causing my car to be rich because on idel it sputters.
Also im driving in gear and when i let of the gas you could hear loud pops(well its loud now because im open header) Im gonna buy a BM commanflow FPR. what do you all suggest
I belive its causing my car to be rich because on idel it sputters.
Also im driving in gear and when i let of the gas you could hear loud pops(well its loud now because im open header) Im gonna buy a BM commanflow FPR. what do you all suggest
the sputtering could be from the open header, get that fixed unless thats how your going to run it, fpr will help though with the open header
the fuel pump shouldn't make the engine run rich if you had the stock fpr and stock engine.
the fuel pump shouldn't make the engine run rich if you had the stock fpr and stock engine.
If you have the stock FPR, prolly not. An occasional sputter or stumble form the exh. is normal when your open header/DP @ idle. Also a lot of sputter/rumble on decel with it in gear is normal as well. You can check your plugs to get a real idea of what is going on in the CC. But if your not throwing a CEL and everything else seems to be fine, I think your alright.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need an adjustable FPR if you running a 255lph fuel pump for sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
fpr is a must with a walbro 255. I had the b&m fpr when i installed the 255 and it ran super rich at idle (46 psi vacuum hose off/42 psi hose on). So i drilled a .035" hole in the bottom half of the oem fpr to allow more fuel to return (learned about this on the endyn website). Pressure dropped to 40 psi (vacuum hose on).
After all that i bought an aem fpr an installed the silver orifice. Final pressures are 46/36
You should get a fuel pressure gage as well. You're supposed to check fuel pressure before installing the pump. Fuel pressure for the b16 is 35-41 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected from the fpr. I think your fuel pressure is close to 50 psi (hose off).
fpr is a must with a walbro 255. I had the b&m fpr when i installed the 255 and it ran super rich at idle (46 psi vacuum hose off/42 psi hose on). So i drilled a .035" hole in the bottom half of the oem fpr to allow more fuel to return (learned about this on the endyn website). Pressure dropped to 40 psi (vacuum hose on).
After all that i bought an aem fpr an installed the silver orifice. Final pressures are 46/36
You should get a fuel pressure gage as well. You're supposed to check fuel pressure before installing the pump. Fuel pressure for the b16 is 35-41 psi with the vacuum hose disconnected from the fpr. I think your fuel pressure is close to 50 psi (hose off).
i run a walboro 255 ho on my b18c1 with a stock 00' b18c1 fpr. i switched between two old commandflow's and one brand new one one on a 98' oem gsr fpr and all of them failed. the beleive the oem spring inside the fpr fails under higher fuel pressure (46+) combined with the high output pump.
ive had the stock fpr on for about 2 months now running the stock 42psi (itr injectors and itr fuel filter) and my motor never ran better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a b16 when i did the swap my pump was bad so i put a 255 on stock FPR. I belive its causing my car to be rich because on idel it sputters.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sputtering isnt only related to a rich air/fuel ratio. i would double check your ignition system as well as timing. take a look at your plugs, they should be dark brown if im not mistaken..this will indicate a rich ratio and white will indicate lean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also im driving in gear and when i let of the gas you could hear loud pops(well its loud now because im open header) Im gonna buy a BM commanflow FPR. what do you all suggest</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car is gonna do that no matter what especially with an open hdr. my bone stock b18c1 in my teg did with and open hdr. as my experience has taught me DO NOT WASTE $$$ on this temporary fix. try running another oem b-series fpr. oem rocks and is reliable...the b&m is more of a hack for a couple more peak whp BUT in my cases the spring wear was the problem. for only $80 more bucks you can get your hands on some serious fpr's that will handle ANYTHING you throw at them.
if (like your not gonna catch the bug) later down the road your gonna upgrade the motor or possibly get some tuning software i would adjust the air/fuel ratio in the computer itself. this way you know its gonan run right no matter what.
q: what ecu are you running and in what trim? pre-obd or obd1
ive had the stock fpr on for about 2 months now running the stock 42psi (itr injectors and itr fuel filter) and my motor never ran better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a b16 when i did the swap my pump was bad so i put a 255 on stock FPR. I belive its causing my car to be rich because on idel it sputters.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sputtering isnt only related to a rich air/fuel ratio. i would double check your ignition system as well as timing. take a look at your plugs, they should be dark brown if im not mistaken..this will indicate a rich ratio and white will indicate lean.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also im driving in gear and when i let of the gas you could hear loud pops(well its loud now because im open header) Im gonna buy a BM commanflow FPR. what do you all suggest</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car is gonna do that no matter what especially with an open hdr. my bone stock b18c1 in my teg did with and open hdr. as my experience has taught me DO NOT WASTE $$$ on this temporary fix. try running another oem b-series fpr. oem rocks and is reliable...the b&m is more of a hack for a couple more peak whp BUT in my cases the spring wear was the problem. for only $80 more bucks you can get your hands on some serious fpr's that will handle ANYTHING you throw at them.
if (like your not gonna catch the bug) later down the road your gonna upgrade the motor or possibly get some tuning software i would adjust the air/fuel ratio in the computer itself. this way you know its gonan run right no matter what.
q: what ecu are you running and in what trim? pre-obd or obd1
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run a walboro 255 ho on my b18c1 with a stock 00' b18c1 fpr. i switched between two old commandflow's and one brand new one one on a 98' oem gsr fpr and all of them failed. the beleive the oem spring inside the fpr fails under higher fuel pressure (46+) combined with the high output pump.
ive had the stock fpr on for about 2 months now running the stock 42psi (itr injectors and itr fuel filter) and my motor never ran better.
sputtering isnt only related to a rich air/fuel ratio. i would double check your ignition system as well as timing. take a look at your plugs, they should be dark brown if im not mistaken..this will indicate a rich ratio and white will indicate lean.
your car is gonna do that no matter what especially with an open hdr. my bone stock b18c1 in my teg did with and open hdr. as my experience has taught me DO NOT WASTE $$$ on this temporary fix. try running another oem b-series fpr. oem rocks and is reliable...the b&m is more of a hack for a couple more peak whp BUT in my cases the spring wear was the problem. for only $80 more bucks you can get your hands on some serious fpr's that will handle ANYTHING you throw at them.
if (like your not gonna catch the bug) later down the road your gonna upgrade the motor or possibly get some tuning software i would adjust the air/fuel ratio in the computer itself. this way you know its gonan run right no matter what.
q: what ecu are you running and in what trim? pre-obd or obd1
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Running stock everything Pr3 ECU ill check my spark plugs.
I wanted to use the BM commandflow because you use the stock rail.
I dont want to buy an Aftermarket fuel rail to use some other type of FPR.
Do you know any other FPR that are compatable with the stock fuel rail.
ive had the stock fpr on for about 2 months now running the stock 42psi (itr injectors and itr fuel filter) and my motor never ran better.
sputtering isnt only related to a rich air/fuel ratio. i would double check your ignition system as well as timing. take a look at your plugs, they should be dark brown if im not mistaken..this will indicate a rich ratio and white will indicate lean.
your car is gonna do that no matter what especially with an open hdr. my bone stock b18c1 in my teg did with and open hdr. as my experience has taught me DO NOT WASTE $$$ on this temporary fix. try running another oem b-series fpr. oem rocks and is reliable...the b&m is more of a hack for a couple more peak whp BUT in my cases the spring wear was the problem. for only $80 more bucks you can get your hands on some serious fpr's that will handle ANYTHING you throw at them.
if (like your not gonna catch the bug) later down the road your gonna upgrade the motor or possibly get some tuning software i would adjust the air/fuel ratio in the computer itself. this way you know its gonan run right no matter what.
q: what ecu are you running and in what trim? pre-obd or obd1
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Running stock everything Pr3 ECU ill check my spark plugs.
I wanted to use the BM commandflow because you use the stock rail.
I dont want to buy an Aftermarket fuel rail to use some other type of FPR.
Do you know any other FPR that are compatable with the stock fuel rail.
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