Ok so i may be gettin a used jrsc with low miles... have some questions here...

1. safe to run off the jrsc fmu?
2. safe to run stock injectors?
3. safe to run stock ngk plugs are they cold enough?
4. its from a 98 gsr... any differences?
5. any comments welcome

Im basically havin the blower transferred from one car to mine... and gonna run on the fmu and as little as possible and wanna be safe....

 

FMU? did JRSC do an upgrade on their kits? Last I knew, it just had a resistor added inline with the IAT sensor to fool the computer into adding more fuel into the chamber. You will need to upgrade your fuel pump. It should come with a boost depended fuel pressure regulator too. If not, you'll need one. Stock injecotors and plugs are ok to run. No differences between 98/97. You'll probably have to set the base timing at 10* BTDC, 12* if you get the water cooler, as opposed to 16* stock. This will result in very poor off idle performance.

But I would recommend against it. It's a piece of crap. The belts were getting cut on the older kits due to a bad pulley. I think they've fixed that. Many people were complaining that their blowers were leaking oil. Personally, I very much dislike JRSC's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kchungb17a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FMU? did JRSC do an upgrade on their kits? Last I knew, it just had a resistor added inline with the IAT sensor to fool the computer into adding more fuel into the chamber. You will need to upgrade your fuel pump. It should come with a boost depended fuel pressure regulator too. If not, you'll need one. Stock injecotors and plugs are ok to run. No differences between 98/97. You'll probably have to set the base timing at 10* BTDC, 12* if you get the water cooler, as opposed to 16* stock. This will result in very poor off idle performance.

But I would recommend against it. It's a piece of crap. The belts were getting cut on the older kits due to a bad pulley. I think they've fixed that. Many people were complaining that their blowers were leaking oil. Personally, I very much dislike JRSC's. </TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks.... so its a necessity to run a new fuel pump? I plan on getting the charger and running bare bones on an fmu for while until i can afford to upgrade further with a hondata, tuning, etc. Will the stock fuel pump be ok to run?

 

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. No different.
5. Please read: JRSC Basics

If you are that lazy, I'll paste it in here for you:

Out of the Box:

The easiest way to create power is to pressurize the intake, better known as forced induction.

One of the easiest ways to force feed an engine is to use of a supercharger. Jackson Racing (JR), a known name in the Honda and Mazda market, has put together a well-engineered supercharger kit that is 50 state smog legal, carrying a CARB certification. JR use a specially modified supercharger made by Eaton, to accomplish a gain of 40% power.

Out of the box, the supercharger kit (6 PIS) includes just about everything you need:
• New vacuum hoses, fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
• JR electronics
• M-45 or M-62 Eaton supercharger depending on application
• Intake manifold
• Alternator relocation bracket
• Double alternator pulley
• Supercharger belt and tensioner
• Along with throttle body and intake manifold gaskets.

A new fuel filter is required, but not included.

General hand tools and a good knowledge mechanical knowledge are needed to be successful.

Average install time for a professional is about 8~10 hours for a B18B engine and about 12~14 hours for a B18C engine. The kit is marketed as a "bolt-on" and a successful install can be accomplished over a weekend's time. Instructions are through and are detailed enough for the amateur mechanic, but expect a more realistic time of 20 to 28 hours if this is your first attempt at modifying your engine. Having a Helms Manuel is highly suggested, for any engine project.

One of the most general questions asked is "what else do I need." In the most simple terms, nothing additional is needed. It's very possible to operate on a stock kit with only dyno tuning and moderate timing setting. Most gear heads do seek further performance and reliability gains, so the following will help guide you in your decision.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Basic Setup:

Even though the Jackson Racing Supercharger can operate with a high level of reliability, there are some aftermarket items not included in the kit that not only make the engine more reliable, but also support future power upgrades. Besides, who wants to be stock? The following items are suggested for safety and reliability.


One heat range colder plug (NGK BCPR7ES)
High-flow fuel pump (Walbro GS-342 or better)
Cartech FMU (20005i or 2025 models)
JR BTC or MSD 6BTM
Boost and mechanical fuel pressure gauges
Dyno tuning

Products, such as the Cartech, BTC, and fuel pump, were chosen to compliment the supercharger and add even more reliability. The Cartech FMU is far superior to the JR FPR (fuel pressure regulator) in many ways. The Cartech FMU is a rise rate fuel pressure regulator; similar to the one JR gives you with their kits. But that's where the similarity ends.

The Cartech 20005i or 2025 (the one you need for S/C engine) allows you to change the ramping, ratios, and allows one to tune larger injectors; these are all things that JR unit can't do.

Ramping: The JR unit does not increase fuel pressure until positive manifold pressure is reached; this is the area where tip-in detonation is common. Also, a "bog" can be felt when the JR unit makes a sudden change in fuel pressure, during this transition. The Cartech has a bleeder valve that can be adjusted to start raising fuel pressure as low as 10" mercury; this makes for a smooth transition to boost and lessens tip-in.

Ratios: The JR unit is set to a 5:1 ratio, meaning for every 1 LB of manifold pressure, fuel pressure will be raised 5LB. So on a stock (6LB) blower, the max fuel pressure should be (6x5=30 + 52(stock GS-R fuel pressure)= 82LB). But many of us see +100LB. why? The reason is the JR FPR makes adjustments based on manifold pressure, which can be higher than 6LB, due to restrictive a header/exhaust slowing the flow and causing the air to "clog up." So instead of the FPR seeing 6LB, it sees 8LB and bumps up fuel pressure an additional 10LB; too rich and robs power. The Cartech's ratios are adjustable and can be set as low as 1:1. On a dyno, several people note a 3.8~4.2:1 as making "good power;" these numbers will only mean something to your set-up and are not transferable to another's setup.

Tuning with bigger injectors: The JR FPR just can't do it. When used in conjunction with an AEM FPR/B&M FPR, the Cartech can dial in those fat injectors for a nice idle.
The fuel pressure gauges will allow the tuner to dial in fuel pressure. The JR BTC will allow for detonation control and give back what would be lost timing and power, for the low end. The fuel pump is self explanatory, as the stock pump just can't move the volume need ed. Changing to a copper plug, of one heat range colder (NGK BCPR7ES-11 stock #1095 for B-series engines) will also aid in detonation control and are cheaper on the wallet to replace. One of the most important aspects is dyno tuning; it is near impossible to extract power by "seat of the pants" tuning.

 

Thanks a lot... very helpful...

 

You may also want to read this entire thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1214810

Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may also want to read this entire thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1214810

Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>thanx a lot for all your help

 

You're welcome.