hey guys..question could a bad tps sensor make you go through fuel pumps like crazy? i have only drove my car 1500 miles after i did a swap(95 civic hatch/b16a) and ive been through two fuel pumps..now they were stock cuase i had them laying around..i still wouldnt think they would go so quick..it feels like my car is losing power low rpm i hit vtec and around 7000rpm it starts to pull..now i no a b16a has little tq..but it just doesnt feel right..my tps had been loose when i recieved the swap and i tightned it..does it need to be adjusted? what do you think could be the problem..also my car gets around 18mpg..thanks

 

bump

 

anyone?..bump

 

I've been working with hondas since 1995 and you know how many OE Honda original fuel pumps I've seen go bad?

<FONT SIZE="7">2</FONT>

One 1989 Civic Si Hb, and one 1990 Accord LX.

I've also seen in that same 1989 two bad aftermarket fuel pumps in a row because the customer wanted to be a cheap-***. He paid us three times to do the job and ended up with the "rip-off" Honda pump. I still see that car running around with a different owner to this day, and that was back in 2000 when we replaced the pump.

I seriously doubt it's the fuel pump. Yamada fuel pumps suck *** despite the green link to them.

Other than that the problem you describe could be so many different things that it'll be nearly impossible to diagnose via the internet.

Here's some options:

Plug wires - replace with only genuine Honda

Spark plugs - replace with NGK or Denso only. Bosch sucks ******** despite the green sponsored link that tries to sell them to you in this very paragraph.

Coil - inside distributor

Ignitor - inside distributor

Distributor (TDC sensors inside can go bad, but usually throw check engine light)
Rotor button - could be lose or worn

Distributor cap - could be worn/cracked

Main fuel pump relay - won't usually cause bogging while driving, but csan make car very difficult to start in heat

Fuel filter - not likely, but clogged ones can cause poor fuel flow

There are more, but those are the most common fixes for cars that bog when they come to my shop.

BTW:

There is a TPS adjustment, but it requires using a volt meter at the samew time to measure it's output while you adjust it. Have a COMPETANT shop do that.

You may end up needing to take the car to a good Honda/Acura shop and pay them to diagnose and fix the car.


Modified by B18C5-EH2 at 9:46 AM 9/14/2005

 

well i know the fuel pump is bad..cause right now my car doesnt start..i crack the banjo bolt on the inline filter and i turn my car over..no pressure..i replaced the fuel pump BAM! car starts..so i know my fuel pump keeps dying on me.

 

its your main relay- Main relay supplies power to the fuel pump to turn on. i have never seen a Honda Fuel pump fail in my 7 years working on them i just seen them run out of juice in high horsepower cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yamada fuel pumps suck *** despite the green link to them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matthevelli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i know the fuel pump is bad..cause right now my car doesnt start..i crack the banjo bolt on the inline filter and i turn my car over..no pressure..i replaced the fuel pump BAM! car starts..so i know my fuel pump keeps dying on me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That means nothing bro.

The main fuel pump relay (that I mentioned before) cuts the fuel pump on. What I think you have is a coincidence that the main relay worked right after you replaced the pump itself, but now it's fucked up again.

Simple test for the main relay:

Turn the key "on" and watch for the check engine light to come on.

Right as it goes out (it should go out right as the key chime stops) you should hear a "clink" noise from under the dash near the hood release. If you do not hear the clink, the car won't start because you need a main relay.

If you hear the clink and the car still won't start, then you do have another problem besides the main relay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LMAO</TD></TR></TABLE>x87

 

thats good info..problem i have a cel anyway..low tps voltage..o2 heater wire..high voltage to the iac i believe..i have it written down..i'll have to look at my notes..but anyway my car just isnt running to full potential..and it goes threw alot of gas...its my fuel pump cuase i just put a walbro in it and it starts again..but i dont want to go threw another pump..im going to tune my tps and that should take care of one code..let me know more what you think