Modified by turbotommy at 8:10 PM 9/12/2005

 

id worry about the forces on that breaking the bolt... would it be possible to add one on the other side.

 

I think it would crack the block before it broke that bolt.

 

Metal vs Aluminum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Metal vs Aluminum </TD></TR></TABLE>

Al is metal...lol

im sure you mean steel vs al

 

all damn steel............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it would crack the block before it broke that bolt. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that too

 

I was just stating that the block would break before the bolt, but I don't think either will happen. I think it'll hold up fine.

 

honda put 3 and 4 bolts there for a reason

im sure you know better than i do of course... but if i were to do something like that i would probably attach it to all 4 bolt holes. how does putting that brace on just the one side effect the rest of hte engine/tranny, with only 2 mounts on the tranny side?

 

The factory bracket that's there sees a completely different load. The ac compressor or motor mount that goes there is trying to shear the bolts off when loaded. This is in direct compression and tension, where a bolt is much stronger. If you had an ac compressor or motor mount the factory way there then it would just pivot on 1 bolt, hence the need for more than 1.


I do think it would work better with a matching one on the tranny side, or very stiff mounts in the other 3 locations, but I don't see this breaking or anything. It may cause the motor to try and pivot weird, dipping down on the back side of the tranny.

 

very similar to mine except in a different spot and i didnt have to do any welding, i found these sick *** Right hand/Left hand threaded couplers for a good price so i figured i would mess with them

 

I've always thought of doing this but with a small damper, then I saw Stillen sold something like that for Nissans (why is it that everything has been thought of?! ). I would still do it though, I love the way my polyurethane filled lower mounts work but at idle my car shakes and rattles a lot.

Anyways, nice job, but I'd be affraid to break something with just a solid bar like that...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do think it would work better with a matching one on the tranny side, or very stiff mounts in the other 3 locations, but I don't see this breaking or anything. It may cause the motor to try and pivot weird, dipping down on the back side of the tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was thinking about that today and i kept refering back to the rear motor mount. its already there except instead of a solid rod its a da bracket bolted to a polyurethane peice. unlike the drivers side mount the tranny mounts force is spread horizontally across a 3bolt traingle...i beleive that the oem design is very very strong on the passenger side.

as for stiff mounts im running the first gen hasport mounts with brand new poly inserts.

Q: maybe a stiffer insert or possibly a solid rear mount could further stiffin the motor? this morning before i left for work i gave the motor a few quick revs and it still doesnt budge, not one bit. so would additional support really be necessary?

 

A solid rear would definitely solve any movement issues. As you know, the front and rear mounts are really the only ones doing much to control engine torque. I don't think reving the engine is enough to say that it's solid, as when you dump the clutch at 8k there's ALOT more force being applied to the mounts. Regardless, I think you're fine with this setup. Do this, take the hood off and launch the car, see if the motor moves.