ive been searching and havent really found anything, so ill start this topic.

I really want to know wat oil everyone is running???

i know some people that run Mobil 1 5w30 in their setups
Ive been running Mobil 1 10w30
some other people run Mobil 1 15w50.

Crower recommends Kendall Gt-1 20w50 in all of their racing applications.... so im wondering wat everyone else uses.....

 

20w50 is much too thick for our honda engines.

I'd stick with 5w30 or 10w30.

I personally run regular penzoil 5w30 in my "built" ls/vtec. It was just rebuilt so I have to stay away from synthetics. After a year or so I plan to switch to Royal Purple 5w30.

 

how about 15w50??

rite now my engine is losing oil like crazy fast on 10w30. i know im burning oil cause on start up it spits out black **** out of my exhaust, and when im ripping it im blowing out blue smoke.

would going to 15w50 help me at all??

 

new rings and guide seals might be a better idea

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Riceintegrars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about 15w50??

rite now my engine is losing oil like crazy fast on 10w30. i know im burning oil cause on start up it spits out black **** out of my exhaust, and when im ripping it im blowing out blue smoke.

would going to 15w50 help me at all??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Might help a bit, I guess. I don't see it fixing your problems. Like PURPLETERROR says, you should get your rings and valve seals checked (via a leakdown test). If you PM Honda-tech user Raene he can do one for you for a cheap price (we live in Vancouver too).

 

i know im not looking to fix this problem, rite now im just trying to help it not eat soo much oil because im 100% sure its my rings and valve seals and guides.

I need a rebuild on my car cause ive almost hit 300k on my engine. Plus i have been planning to bump up my compression and get new pistons and rings and **** which i dont have the money for rite now.

Rite now im just looking for a temporary fix till i have enough $ so i can finish my build

 

theres really no temporary FIX for your problem. it will just get worse and worse. i dont see how thicker oil will help. running a thicker oil will possibly cut down on oil loss a bit because over the last 300k miles the engine tolerances have no doubt
opened up some. maybe a 10w40 conventional motor oil will work but i think 15w50 is just way too thick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It was just rebuilt so I have to stay away from synthetics. After a year or so I plan to switch to Royal Purple 5w30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why can't you run synthetic oil in a freshly built motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whatVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why can't you run synthetic oil in a freshly built motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My machinist told me not to, he said that synthetic oil was "too good" and would work it's way past the new rings more than regular oil will, or something to that effect. He said that the newer the engine is, the more likely it is that this could happen with synthetic oil. He said to give it a year and then switch over.

 

I read on nonvtec.com somewhere that crower doesnt recomend synthetic oils for any racing applications. They say it will cause wear to the camshafts but it doesnt really make sense to me. Im running 5w30 valvoline synthetic in my ls with 403's so can someone clear this up or should i just keep running what i have?

 

Valvoline 10W-30

 

i emailed crower and asked them, but still no reply. a

nyways, my car is hella alot slower plus it can barely idle on its own on cold start on 15w50. going back to 10w30 soon.

 

Dude, you're doing the classic HT noob thing: asking a question, getting answers you don't want, ignoring them and making your own conclusions. Listen to these people. When 10 people or so say, "different oil isn't gonna make it any better" give it some consideration. Having been in your situation (burning oil a bunch, trying to minimize it with thicker oil), it's the wrong thing to do. I needed a rebuild, and if your consumption is as bad as you make it out to be, you need to replace something as well.

 

yes its a noob thing to do, but i actually posted this question on other forums to see the response, then i switched to 15w50, then i posted the same question here, and gotten a way better response. so im switching back.

i didnt make up my on conclusion, i went by some other peoples experiences, but it didnt help me. i dont go on H-T often so i forgot how fast and how inteligent a response i get from here.

 

heres wat crower had to say about my question

"That oil link is really intended for flat face cam/lifter combos in V8's
with high spring pressure. The sport compact engines don't have much spring
pressure, so it's not as critical.

If you're having success with synthetics, keep running it.

Thanks for your interest in Crower,

Crower Cams & Equipment Co, Inc
6180 Business Center Court
San Diego, CA 92154-5604 USA
Tel: 619-661-6477
Fax: 619-661-6466
http://www.crower.com"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Riceintegrars &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i emailed crower and asked them, but still no reply. a

nyways, my car is hella alot slower plus it can barely idle on its own on cold start on 15w50. going back to 10w30 soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah go back to 10W-30. I like it b/c it is a lil thicker than 0W-30 and 5W-30, which I feel will better protect my internals. I have never spun a bearing with 10W-30, but every motor I had that I spun a bearing in ran 5W-30 in it.

I'll take being a lil slower, for a lil more reliability. Not sure if what I said is fact, but it is what I think.