I have a 97 honda accord SE auto tranny. I was wondering if switch out the engine (i belive it is a f22b2 engine) i was wondering if it is worth saving up to put a new vtech engine and then after put in turbo? (at the same time put a custom exhaust, b.c i heard something liek u have to have a certain width of pipe if you get turbo for better performance) also if i get a new vtech engine, should i switch the whole tranny to a manual? if so im guessing that will cost even more money to do that.. thanks for the inputs

by the way i always read people asking for help and everyone always says do suspension first and then intake, and stuff, i already have both so no worries

 

if your planning on swaping in a f22 vtec motor, then dont waste your time, and just turbo the stock motor. but if you want to swap in an h22 motor, then go for it, its' a great motor and a good improvement over the stock one.

and if you want 5spd or not is your choice, personally yes, i would go 5spd, becaues well i hate honda autos, they always liike to blow up in my hands,

 

so going h22 and then turbo is the way to go im taking it? or h22 and no turbo.. or stock engine and then turbo? just trying not to waste my money thanks

 

First off to help you out it is VTEC. As for the engine your Accord will support a wide variety. You will find that for a decent price an F20B is a good engine and does turbo well as does the H23 and your stock F22. The H22A is the sportiest of the swap-ins IMO but is a little harder to turbo because of the FRM sleeves. You may want to search all of these engine codes and FRM in the forum here for more information.

 

I want an H22 so I can fit in with my friends.

The f22b2 is not VTEC. The f22b1 is the VTEC engine. (you don't have VTEC). By the way SOHC VTEC isn't that great. I would put on a head from a 4th gen (f22ax). They have better flow capabilities, but it's harder to find turbo manifolds (you could just redrill a DSM manifold) and theres not as many off the shelf turbo kits (so make your own).

 

Your probably best off swapping in a manual transmission and then turbocharging. Swapping and turboing will cost twice as much and only get you a little bit more power(assuming on stock internals) than boosting the f motor. The F22 responds really well to boost on stock internals so its a fairly inexpensive yet effective route to take.

btw how many miles does your motor have?

 

my motor has 150k miles. I heard its not a good idea to put turbo on motors with highmilage (i dont think its that high consdering hondas are great in that department) anyways. Due to research and such, im starting to think turboing my f22 is more effective then getting a h22. Plus i heard h22 and turbo dont responde well? well i mean i hear diffrent stories all the time.

More suggestions would be great. so far im leaning towards keeping my stock and turboing, or going h22 swap.. depending on the answer to this "Plus i heard h22 and turbo dont responde well? well i mean i hear diffrent stories all the time. "

more in put please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> vtech (at the </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh boy

ive done an h22 swap and a custom turbo setup on my accord... mine was a 92 but the h22 is definetly worth it and was fun.. and the turbo setup on it makes it even better... but be ready (if you do the work youself) cause its gona take some brain power and time... turboing that bitch took alot of moving welding and stuff.. but i am running a full 3" dp and exhaust and everything... good luck man..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
AEM Intake - 200 dollars
New h22 engine - 2500 dollars
New turbo - 3000 dollars
Racing a cocky guy in a mustang cobera infront of his hott gf and winning - priceless </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol an AEM intake and new turbo? but i guess i dont have room to talk..i hacked up my AEM intake to make an intake pipe for my turbo. i would love to see an h22 accord turbo run an 03 cobra w/ half that money into his car. the older cobras are slow..but the supercharged ones are extremely fast and cheap cars to make fast...i would drive one. my manager at work ran a 12.42 @ 117 this weekend at the track in his 03 cobra on street tires, less than $1k in mods and right after driving an hour and a half to the track.

but anyways whos says its a bad idea to boost a motor w/ high mileage? it depends on the condition of the motor...im boosting my f22b2 at 8psi daily driven w/ 156k miles..it has been boosted for 10k miles and i have had no problems at all. i take care of my motor and always have.
i would just boost the motor you have but swap to a manual definately that auto wont take it. just look around for a manual tranny you can use another f22 tranny or buy an h23 tranny for really cheap, they will usually run you around $200 then you will need the clutch pedal assembly, a manual tranny ECU, shift linkage, shifter assembly, clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder w/ lines. shouldnt cost you more than about $800 if you look hard enough. of all the people that have told me over the last few years they are gonna swap an h22 and turbo it..only about 2% of them actually swap an h22 and the people that end up turboing it are slim. but props to all the turbo h22's out there. just do a lot of searching...i did about 6 months of research before i even started my turbo setup..and i will be changing it a little bit soon. w/ a built f22b bottom end, built f22A head, and some other mix and match goodies, a bigger turbo

 

Agree with Brad on one important point:

Miles don't matter, compression test results do! Do a compression test and if all looks good you may be a good candidate for turbo. F22 iron sleeves love the boost.

 

haha the funny thing is a never compression tested my motor before i boosted it...but i also bought the car w/ 111k miles and drove it about 30k something miles and changed the oil w/ mobil 1 every 3k miles and took good care of the motor...i had the car inspected by a local honda shop i trust before i bought it. but im not complaining 10k miles on boost is pretty good, change my plugs about every 5k and still change the oil every 2500-3k miles w/ mobil one

 

Well i made up my mind to get the compression tests done and everything done and checked before i get boosted. However im thinking if it all doesnt go to well im just gonna by a new f22b2 (well not new new.. but u get the point) and boost it.

Im still doing alot of researching on f22b2 boosted, or going h22 or h22a.. Its all so much though and alot of brain power to get it all down lol.

 

if you are going to turbo the f22 get 3'' exhaust . i am thinking of turboing my f22 also, but i also want LSD to keep it on the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H2290 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Agree with Brad on one important point:

Miles don't matter, compression test results do! Do a compression test and if all looks good you may be a good candidate for turbo. F22 iron sleeves love the boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondabum4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are going to turbo the f22 get 3'' exhaust . i am thinking of turboing my f22 also, but i also want LSD to keep it on the road. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You won't be putting down enough power to worry about LSD

 

lol sorry for my stupidness, but what is LSD? (im new to the car scene and everything i have been learning alot) So i dont know alot of abv. only a few.

Anyways so 3" exhaust is the best thing for it then? b.c im getting my exhaust done real soon and i dont wanan go spend money for nothing and not be able to boost. Thanks for the tip any more suggestions or tips would be apprciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol sorry for my stupidness, but what is LSD? (im new to the car scene and everything i have been learning alot) So i dont know alot of abv. only a few.

Anyways so 3" exhaust is the best thing for it then? b.c im getting my exhaust done real soon and i dont wanan go spend money for nothing and not be able to boost. Thanks for the tip any more suggestions or tips would be apprciated </TD></TR></TABLE>

LSD=Limited Slip Differential

ur stock diferential distribute torque to the wheel with the least amount of grip...what a LSD does is it delivers torque to both wheels evenly(or as close as possible)...they come in 3 types, 1, 1.5, and 2-way...1 way only works during acceleration..1.5 works during acceleration and partially during deceleration..and 2 way works during both accel and decel...and there are viscous, and helical(spell check?) and cluth types, etc. i dunno the diference between them and how they work so i'll let sumone else explain those

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goowakjai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LSD=Limited Slip Differential

ur stock diferential distribute torque to the wheel with the least amount of grip...what a LSD does is it delivers torque to both wheels evenly(or as close as possible)...they come in 3 types, 1, 1.5, and 2-way...1 way only works during acceleration..1.5 works during acceleration and partially during deceleration..and 2 way works during both accel and decel...and there are viscous, and helical(spell check?) and cluth types, etc. i dunno the diference between them and how they work so i'll let sumone else explain those</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the lesson

 

ive seen and worked a little with the clutch type ones... the only way i can explain it is... its kinda like a motorcyle clutch, it used friction and steal discs to deliver the correct power... when using them make sure not to use a synthetic oil because it will cause the clutches to slip...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 97 honda accord SE auto tranny. I was wondering if switch out the engine (i belive it is a f22b2 engine) i was wondering if it is worth saving up to put a new vtech engine and then after put in turbo? (at the same time put a custom exhaust, b.c i heard something liek u have to have a certain width of pipe if you get turbo for better performance) also if i get a new vtech engine, should i switch the whole tranny to a manual? if so im guessing that will cost even more money to do that.. thanks for the inputs

by the way i always read people asking for help and everyone always says do suspension first and then intake, and stuff, i already have both so no worries </TD></TR></TABLE>

First thing i did was swap an H22A.....the others will come.
But before that i learned to spell VTEC

 

you dont necessarily need 3" exhuast especially if you will only be running 8-10 PSI...im running 2.5" from downpipe all the way back w/ no cat and a knock off N1 style straight thru muffler.

plus its really hard to fab a 3" downpipe w/ AC

you don't really need a limited slip unless you are making a ton of power and running at the track...it will torque steer like a mother ****** but just keep your hands on the wheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rival12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First thing i did was swap an H22A.....the others will come.
But before that i learned to spell VTEC

</TD></TR></TABLE>

it was a typo. Try not to be a dick about it

 

Turbo in a auto or you doing a auto to manual conversion?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by casmello &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo in a auto or you doing a auto to manual conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh no definatly doing a auto to manual swap