my wheel cylinder is leaking...
i got drums in the back of my crx and the wheel cylinder in the rear right is leaking brake fluid. also, that drum doesnt seem to want to release my brake shoes, i know im going to have to replace the wheel cylinder but how can i make the drum release my brake shoes?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc ninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhh..no, its a beater.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so?
so?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc ninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhh..no, its a beater.</TD></TR></TABLE>
take the rear lines out of the MC and put in a bolt!!
take the rear lines out of the MC and put in a bolt!!
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WTF are you talking about dude? i'm just messing around.
I needed my rear drums pretty much rebuilt a few years ago. It was much more cost-effective to convert to disc than go through that hassle.
It may also be the same for you!
I needed my rear drums pretty much rebuilt a few years ago. It was much more cost-effective to convert to disc than go through that hassle.
It may also be the same for you!
do you know what a wheel cylinder is?? it sits in between your brake shoes and when you go to apply the brakes it pushes outwards and forces your brake shoes with the drum. also its not releasing so im not sure what is wrong...im just asking. and yes i would convert to disc but how much did you drop on that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF are you talking about dude? i'm just messing around.
I needed my rear drums pretty much rebuilt a few years ago. It was much more cost-effective to convert to disc than go through that hassle.
It may also be the same for you!</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said.
BUT the reason its not releasing the pads is because that cylinder isnt returning back. and the automatic adjuster just keeps on pushing those pads out.
when replacing the cylinders you should also get some new hardware (springs,clips,whatever) I think it comes in a kit.
after all that it probly would have been cheaper to convert to disc. disc=no stupid springs\shoes\cylinders to **** up.
I needed my rear drums pretty much rebuilt a few years ago. It was much more cost-effective to convert to disc than go through that hassle.
It may also be the same for you!</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said.
BUT the reason its not releasing the pads is because that cylinder isnt returning back. and the automatic adjuster just keeps on pushing those pads out.
when replacing the cylinders you should also get some new hardware (springs,clips,whatever) I think it comes in a kit.
after all that it probly would have been cheaper to convert to disc. disc=no stupid springs\shoes\cylinders to **** up.
I purchased new cylinders for my drums a few months ago, they were about $12 TOTAL for both brand spankin new. If you can not get the drum off, keep the beast in gear, take off the ebrake, and use some nice 8x60 bolts in the drum holes and screw it off (ha ha). It should take no more than 1 minute per drum. The cylinder shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to get done, but new shoes (which will be required if they have been sitting in fluid) will be a PITA to get on with new springs. If you do the full Disc conversion, it might cost you about $50-300 based on where you get it and their condition. If having fancy brakes is not an issue, just rebuild your drums. I want discs as I am VERY tired of working on my drums, but that seems to be my problem
I understand poor, I sell cell phones and it never seems to be enough. Bills (home), the wife's car, and my ride all seem to be the major money pits in my life, in that particular order. That's why rebuilding the drums and maintaining them is a more cost effective option on my hatch when the problems present themselves. If you plan on keeping your ride for a long time (3-4 years or more) and can justify the up front cost with duration and lower long term maintenance effort and cost, the rear disc conversion might be a better option for you.
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GSR FRONT AND REAR BRAKES 100% COMPLETE WITH EBRAKE CABLES AND MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE BOOSTER,+ C
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