My front end feels really loose and shakes when I brake and I'm sure I need to replace my lower ball joints. Anyone have success with aftermarket joints? Also do the lower joints wear out faster than the upper? My upper joints seem to be fine but who knows. Anyone try replacing them on the car with a "C" puller/installer?

 

bump for info because i am about to attempt the install of my front end components also

 

ill keep saying it, because no one seems to believe me.

replace the rack end bushing.

 

Tyson just get them to stickey it, they should put a banner that says that in rotation in the sponsor box.

 

yes the lower ones go more often than the upper, if you need to revove them you can beat them out with a hammer pretty easy, then put the new one in and tap it in with a mallet with a 2x4 between so you dont damage the new joint

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes the lower ones go more often than the upper, if you need to revove them you can beat them out with a hammer pretty easy, then put the new one in and tap it in with a mallet with a 2x4 between so you dont damage the new joint </TD></TR></TABLE>

because the lower are the loads caring ball joints....they sustain all the wear and tear of the car

 

Funny post, just changed both lower ball joints, and outer tie rod ends 2 days ago.

It really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Just need snap ring pliers, a hammer to remove and install the ball joints, and something to seperate the ball joints. I used a pickle fork on the lower joints b/c I didn't care about the rubber boot since I was replacing the boot. On the upper joint (which you need to seperate to remove the knuckle) I was able to knock one loose with a hammer and on the other I had to use the pickle fork, but was careful and didn't tear the boot. The outer tie rods are also pretty simple. Pretty much unscrew it after you get the joint free. Might need some pb blaster to loosen it up.

I've heard horror stories about changing joints, but I didn't think it was that bad. Hardest part is getting the joints ball joints seperated, and changing the ball joint just took some whacking with a hammer.

 

yeh the uppers wear out faster....u really shouldnt have to replace the balljoints unless of course u get a swap and add more weight to it....at that point its almost inevitable ull have to do em.....its not too hard thou good luck

 

Also, I see in your sig you have an 88 which means you have to buy brand UCA's b/c the ball joint is a weld in piece for the upper ball joints. If you have a 90-91 then you can press them out. I swapped mine out with a 91 civic EX UCA's so that when the time comes, I can just replace the ball joint and not the whole UCA. Again, this the upper ball joint, lower is same across the years.

 

just to update, we replaced the rack end bushing, adjusted the steering gearbox, replaced the driver side tie rod end (which had a lot of play) and replaced the passenger side balljoint.

all of which contributed to the bad steering and vibration, which is now all gone. (mostly)

we did not change the upper balljoint.


Modified by Tyson at 3:36 PM 10/5/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to update, we replaced the rack end bushing, adjusted the steering gearbox, replaced the driver side tie rod end (which had a lot of play) and replaced the passenger side balljoint.

all of which contributed to the bad steering and vibration, which is now all gone. (mostly)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, maybe this is the problem with my steering vibration ???