Hey guys, what are you doing when your rear lower shock bolt has seized to the bushing on the LCA? This is on my EG. I broke the head off the bolt, and I even ripped the welded nut on the shock out. I no longer have any bolt protruding thru the shock fork. I am thinking my only solution now is to drill out the bolt so that I can pull the shock out from the bushing, and then replace the bushing.

I want to know what you guys have done.

Thanks.

 

are these in stock shocks?
if so id just cut the shocks unless you want to try to sell them

if you want to save them id try to drill the bolt out

im gonna have to see if mine come out next weekend theyve only been in a year so i hope they come out

 

I had a bolt seize in the bushing once. I had to use a sawzall with a special blade (Torch brand) to cut through the bolt ends (both sides between fork & LCA). I just got another shock because it was bent so bad. You could just get another grade 5+ bolt & locking nut from Ace hardware & bend the fork. For the bushing, cut the inner metal part away from the outter ring (I started with a drillbit, then used a hacksaw blade). New bushing is a few bucks.

 

sean i would just buy a new LCA, you can find them for cheap, and it will cost less then to buy bushings and press old ones out and new ones in.

 

might just have to put Tyson on another mission.

Getting a new LCA WOULD be less of a headache, but if a new bushing only costs a few bux, I'm okay with that.

I wonder if I can press out the remainder of the bolt with 10,000 lbs of force?!

 

ive got some extra bolts for you. i have a spare EF right rear LCA available as well, not sure if its the same.

 

there he is

Technically I just fucked up the left side, but the right side is also stuck, but I didnt break that bolt loose. I just left the arm on the shock. I just have to fix the drivers side so that I dont risk the shock coming off one day while driving.

 

well, you missed the big sale this weekend. anyway, let me know if i can help.

i would just get the bushing pressed out and replaced altogether.

 

ya i agree that its easier to just pop out the bushing

sorry to go on a little tangent
but does anyone know what part causes the seizing
is the bolt bending
or the bushing bending
or is it just getting stuck

since im about to pull mine out again (knocks on wood) would it be worth while to replace with better bolts

 

i imagine water getting in the sleeve of the bushing and corroding the surface of the bolt and welding into the wall of the sleeve.

 

think i should replace them with some 140,000 tensile strenght stainless steel ones

that might help?

im about to replace them so i guess i can be a guinee pig
all i know is im not gona keep using those oem bolts from acura for 25$ each that always get stuck

 

honestly, i dont think that solves anything. just taking the bolts out and using antisieze is probably all you need to prevent any more stuck bolts. its a problem with that bolt is never serviced after 10+ years.

besides, im a fan of honda design. almost every bolt is made pretty unique, especially the suspension bolts. just looking at it, you can see they designed the proper shoulder diameter and length, theres a little blue plastic lock nub at the end, right where the nut is located (yeah, that may seem redundant in a case like this...) but the point is that honda puts a lot of effort in designing their hardware. i wouldnt mess with it.

 

well i took mine out last year in 04 and my car is an 01

so between 3 to 4 years on the bolts
and they both broke

ill tell you in about a week how they are after 1 year

 

never had a suspension bolt break on me i guess. and i usually deal with 15+ year old cars.

 

you use breaker bar or impact wrench

i only had a breaker bar when i did mine
but i got an air compressor now and might try an impact wrench

 

ive only used a breaker bar.

i usually dont have access to air compressor, which is only available to me at my friends house. and even then, i prefer manual tools sometimes.

 

Ive broken them a lot using just hand force, never snapped them with impact (only used electric impact too) just as a side.

 

I was on a roll swapping the springs out on that car until I got stuck on the bolts. I was using air tools The impact wrench wouldnt break the bolt so I switched to a 2 foot breaker bar, and then I twisted the head of the bolt off like it was butter.

Tyson is completely right, all you need is antiseize to keep the bolts from seizing in the bushings, which are bare steel if I am not mistaken. The plating on the bolts don't help prevent corrosion.

Tysons also lucky that living near the beach also hasen't made his bolts seize. I was going to say that if you live in conditions where there is a lot of bad weather, seizing could be a problem sooner than later. Just look at snowy states where there is always salt spread on the roads, lots of **** corrodes faster out there.

I'm surprised no one has said "oh well I drenched the assembly in liquid wrench and it finally broke loose." Wish it was that easy.

 

well, you forget im originally from the east coast. the old red #16 went through many moons of icy winters in the mid atlantic. ive also worked on a few other cars there. actually my current yellow crx is from the east coast, but mostly florida, so that dont count. but, ive never encountered a broken/siezed suspension bolt myself, that i couldnt get off with a breaker bar. i count myself lucky.

and all the cars in the junkyard ive encountered never gave me a hassle. but perhaps thats because theyre all california owned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sean i would just buy a new LCA, you can find them for cheap, and it will cost less then to buy bushings and press old ones out and new ones in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

das what i was thinkin. Either that or buy a used LCA with bushings in good condion and BAM SON.....even easier!