Is there a trunk trigger on the integras? I was told by my installer that there wasnt one. So my hatch is pretty much unprotected? It doesnt make sense to me, there has to be a way to tap into the signal that goes into my dash telling me my hatch isnt closed all the way, right? Thanks in advance!

 

jus wire it to the light that comes on when you open the trunk

 

Or you could use the correct wire, which is green, located in a 12 pin blue plug on top center of the fusebox.

 

I dont know too much about installing alarms. So from that green wire on the blue connector, then where do I connect the other end? Is that blue connector factory or is it a connector supplied with the alarm? Thanks for you help b18c_ej8!! I appreciate it!

 

You hook the blue wire (I think) off of the big white connector on the alarm to the trunk trigger wire...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You hook the blue wire (I think) off of the big white connector on the alarm to the trunk trigger wire... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct, it is labeled as "instant trigger" in the manual

 

Does the green wire on the blue plug run down the kick panel? it seems like a tight fit for me to use a "quick connect" near the blue plug.

and my second question is, is it possible to have more than one signal tied into that trunk trigger (blue wire, main harness). for ex. can i have the trunk trigger and another type of sensor tied into that one trigger?

thanks again guys for the help!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the green wire on the blue plug run down the kick panel? it seems like a tight fit for me to use a "quick connect" near the blue plug.

and my second question is, is it possible to have more than one signal tied into that trunk trigger (blue wire, main harness). for ex. can i have the trunk trigger and another type of sensor tied into that one trigger?

thanks again guys for the help!! </TD></TR></TABLE>First a "quick connect" is a poor way to make alarm connections You can connect a hood pin directly to the blue wire along with the "trunk" trigger, all that will happen is the trunk/hatch light will come on when you open the hood, however if you want to connect some type of sensor, [prox, impact or the like] you will have to isolate the 2 inputs to the blue wire with diodes, as the ground outputs from the sen. can be damaged by the load of the trunk/hatch light 94

 

Just back from connecting and testing. We got the trunk trigger to work. BUT, we had the tilt sensor tied in also and the tilt did not work. When we turned the dial all the way on the tilt sensor it set the alarm off. Hopefully I didnt ruin it by not having the diodes in there like you said. After we gave up, we left everything connected again. As soon I started the car, the trunk light in the dash was flickering, in hind sight I assume this is because there wasnt any diode in the circuit. We just ended up cutting the tilt sensor wire to make that stop.

But Fcm, will the trunk trigger and tilt sensor work fine once I get those diodes in there?

Thanks for the help, its greatly appreciated!

 

I was looking to get this alarm for my recent purchase... Would you recommend it? Where did you get it? I was going to go online and buy one, they run $150-200... Installation is going to run me cheap cause one of my boys does car/audio installations...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeRod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But Fcm, will the trunk trigger and tilt sensor work fine once I get those diodes in there?</TD></TR></TABLE> I don't know if the tilt sen. will start working properly, [there are other facters that apply] but I do know that without the diodes it can not work properly, the reason the trunk/hatch ajar light is "flickering" is because the tilt sen. is sending a ground to the light, [just like the trunk/hatch switch does] and it could be the reason you had to turn it up all the way for it to trigger the alarm, the diodes will isolate the tilt sen. from the trunk/hatch switch, light and warning light, and them from the tilt sen. 94

 

yeah i think its a good alarm. nice features. its a little diff. than my last alarm (clifford avantguard 3). but overall its a good alarm. what i love best is the range the remote has. but the two way is pretty much like a cell phone, if you dont have signal then you wont know ur car alarm is going off. yeah i would say go for it. hope it works out for you!

 

So i finally ordered it but was curious about the keyless entry. Do i need to buy additional items? I was told that since i have powerlocks, it should not be a problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MILKILOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So i finally ordered it but was curious about the keyless entry. Do i need to buy additional items? I was told that since i have powerlocks, it should not be a problem? </TD></TR></TABLE> It depends on the car, most Honda/Acuras use a neg. triggered relay system for their D/Ls and it's low current. and all alarms that have D/L outputs, have at least low current neg., [about 250mA] D/L outputs. 94

 

Hey typerod did you hook up the remote start?

Does the turbo timer work without hooking up the remote start? or does it require that the remote start be hooked up?

I have this alarm and I MUST have the tutbo timer working. Because if this turns out to be an expensive alarm then it will suck. I thought I could get the tt and alarm in one so I could save some money.


Which kinds of installers will hook up remote start on a manual car?

 

Most will do it if you tell them not to wire the starter output, that way the TT will work but you can't start the car by remote, and yes the remote start has to be wired, [except the starter wire] for the TT to work. 94

 

This is really frustrating, because some installers are saying that you have to have the remote start installed for the alarm to work period. Others are saying that you dont and the other alarm features will work.

I dont know who to take the car to.


But I'll call these idiots up again tommorow and see if they can do it without the starter wire output.


Modified by Mjfan12 at 6:45 PM 9/15/2005

 

Hey Mjfan12! Yes I did have the remote start hooked up. I've never tried out the turbo timer part of it.

As far as having the remote start wired for the tt to work, I'm not sure...but I'm sure fcm knows what he's talking about.

Most "pro" installers wont do the remote start on manual trans. just because they can be held liable for it. some will do it, w/o a second thought. I have it rigged so if the car is in gear and I try to remote start it, it wont start at all.

But IMO, i would want the alarm to perform all that its capable of, so i know im getting the most out of it.

just keep askin around local shops, im sure you'll find someone who can answer ur questions. and if you have a "pro" shop do it, everything is under warranty, so bring it back as many times as you have to until its the way u want it.

sorry if i wasnt much help! but i hope it turns out for the best for you.

 

You have to hook everything up, except the output from the alarm/remote start that goes to the starter wire in the ign. harness, for the TT to work, you don't need to be able to start the car, [it's already running] everything will work, except you will not be able the remotely start the car, we do it in our shop all the time, we have people that get the alarm/remote start, so they can have the TT and alarm, and if it's a standard, we are not aloud to wire it up unless we do not connect the started output wire. In your case we would not wire the heavy gauge purple and green wires from the 791vx to your cars black/white wire. 94

 

Thanks fcm. I'll print your response out and show it to the installer and we'll see if they do it right.

I know you know your stuff. Whew. I feel very relieved! I was about to put the alarm for sale because I thought that I could never get it to work like I wanted to.

Remote start would be nice, but I dont really need it that much. All I want is a kickass top of the line alarm and the tt feature to work since I wont have to buy and install a seperate tt and have the hassle of making it work together with the alarm.

Since the tt is integrated with the alarm, i'm sure things will work together real nice.

Thanks again for answering my dumb repetitive questions, but I was feeling angy/upset/frustrated because most installers in my area dont seem to know what theyre doing and cant answer my questions correctly.

I should take this to an authorized viper dealer so my warranty will stay in tact correct? how long is the viper warranty and what will it cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mjfan12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks fcm. I'll print your response out and show it to the installer and we'll see if they do it right.

I know you know your stuff. Whew. I feel very relieved! I was about to put the alarm for sale because I thought that I could never get it to work like I wanted to.

Remote start would be nice, but I dont really need it that much. All I want is a kickass top of the line alarm and the tt feature to work since I wont have to buy and install a seperate tt and have the hassle of making it work together with the alarm.

Since the tt is integrated with the alarm, i'm sure things will work together real nice.

Thanks again for answering my dumb repetitive questions, but I was feeling angy/upset/frustrated because most installers in my area dont seem to know what theyre doing and cant answer my questions correctly.

I should take this to an authorized viper dealer so my warranty will stay in tact correct? how long is the viper warranty and what will it cover?</TD></TR></TABLE> Don't blame the installer, some places have a very strict policy, and will not let their installers install any part of an alarm/remote start into a standard because of liability, [and that's a much bigger problem in the USA then in Canada]
Why don't you just sell it, get a Compustar, they make alarm/remote starts for standards with built in TTs, and a Compustar dealer will have no problem installing the unit.
Warranty on any DEI product that is purchased and installed at an authorized dealer has a lifetime warranty on the main unit and 1 year on the remote. Same goes for Compustar. 94

 

compustar? I know about the "safety features" but can you tell me what they are and do exactly? Like will it not remote start if the car is left in gear, or if the e brake isnt engaged?
I just might get this, because the range on the compustar remotes seem to be better.

The 2wss-as is good right? thats their top model I believe.

It is $50 more than the viper, but I guess if it is a good product and has safety features for manuals then it would be a wise choice.



Modified by Mjfan12 at 1:04 AM 9/17/2005

 

Yea it does have the range, but when installed in standards both the "E" brake and your doors are wired to the remote start, once you come to a stop you have to go through a sequence that allows you the remove the key from the ign., [kind of like a stop and go feature] but keep the motor running, then you would open the door and get out of the still running car, [that can't possibly be in gear], and depending on programing, when you close the door, the engine would stop running and the alarm would arm, or wait till TT ran down, and then stop the motor and arm or close door, arm the alarm manually, and that would shut motor down, or let TT run down, and then shut the motor down, IF AT ANYTIME A DOOR IS OPENED after getting out of car and closing door, or "ready mode" sequence is not fallowed, you will not be able to remotely start the car. 94