So I didn't have the torque specs when I was installing Crower 403 cams in a B18B1 motor - I had to call people and have them check specs online as I had no internet access and no one was at my place to check my service manuals...well somehow the spec info I was given was a bit more then necessary.

Here's what I torqued stuff to:

Cam cap bolts: 12 ft/lbs
Rocker arm nuts: 16 ft/lbs
Cam gear bolt: 45 ft/lbs

I think the factory specs are:
Cam cap bolts: 7 ft/lbs
Rocker arm nuts: 7 ft/lbs
Cam gear bolt: 27 ft/lbs


How bad is it? Do I need to loosen everything and re-torque to factory specs or will this be ok?

 

If the cam cap bolts didn't strip out I would leave them as they are.I've never torqued the adjuster nuts but I'm sure I've exceeded 15#'s.The cam gear bolt I would throw away and properly torque the new one.Having a cam bolt fail is a catastrophic event I try to avoid.
Glenn

 

Those cam cap bolts like to break when over torqued so you may have weakened them. I'd buy a full set of cam cap bolts and retorque those along with the cam gear bolts. Torque on the valve adjust nut should be around 18 ft-lb.

 

the torque wrench that i used on my LS head didnt have low enough numbers to torque the caps down to 7-8 ft-lbs so i just hand tightened the nuts then gave it another 1/2 a turn. the first time i did my cam caps i had them torqued to 15 ft-lbs. i drove the car like that for about 6 months with no problems. pulled the cams out to rebuild the bottom end with higher CR pistons and the cams were in mint condition still. no wear on them

 

New cam gear bolts should be here Wednesday. Until then I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

i wouldn't worry about it....its not like it said 15 lb/ft and you went to 85...if the bolt didn't shear off you shouldn't worry. unless there was a gasket there and its now bulging out, forget about it