I took a car for a test drive and the owner of the car was telling me that the skunk2 camber kit he has installed knocks on the chassis when you go over hard bumps. Is this a problem with the design of the skunk2 kit or is there something Im not being told. Please get back to me asap!

 

It does this on a friend's 96-98 sedan with old gen skunk2 upper kit. I have no idea if it is something they took care of with the new generation.

 

probably a result of the car being to low and hitting on the top of the wheel well

 

take a mini sledge hammer and flatten the seam above the upper control arm......that will solve the problem

 

Car to low and/or soft springs. I have never had this problem.

 

The car has H&R race springs and it looks absolutely dumped on them

 

There are two things that typically rub/hit with the Skunk2s. First is the outer arm on the inside of the fender well (top of the bolts hit first). The inner edges can also rub on the inner fender well behind the bushings. Proper ride height, springs, and bumpstops prevent the first; a few minutes with a grinder prevents the second.

Edit: Oh yeah, if there's a strut tower brace involved, I've seen the Skunk2 arms come into contact with the bolts for the brace. This can happen when the brace uses the same attachment location as the Type R brace, i.e., neither the shock bolts nor the upper arm bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demon_Dub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car has H&R race springs and it looks absolutely dumped on them</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car to low and/or soft springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Try to help but people with no clue rule the place.

Clinton


Modified by wtfman2 at 10:35 AM 8/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea mine did it too untill I picked it up a bit. Seems to handle better up there too. Lower isn't always better. Its kinda funny though that you can't lower the car that far when using a product that was designed to correct the alighnment problem cause by lowering the car too much.

Clinton</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know, there really isnt a "problem" caused by lowering the car too much that a camber kit fixes. you just need an alignment after you lower your car to correct the toe. leave the negative camber gain as is, it does no harm.

 

Try to help but people with no clue rule the place.

Clinton


Modified by wtfman2 at 10:36 AM 8/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah ok you tell that to the countless sets of tires that only last for 3000 miles and are only wore out on the inside. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is due to excessive toe - NOT camber. Camber doesnt scrub like a bunch fo toe will.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides it may lok cool but it lowers the roll center of the suspension so far under the pavement that it actualy makes the car handle worse. Look at all of the Hondas that ae competitive at autocross races at a national level and look at how tall they are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really?

http://redshiftmotorsports.com/images/IMG_2281.JPG

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

That may be true for other cars, but most hondas get away just fine.

 

Try to help but people with no clue rule the place.

Clinton


Modified by wtfman2 at 10:36 AM 8/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No its not cause we always set our toe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're wrong. If your toe is set within spec, you wont get any funny wear even with -3 deg of camber.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Acessive camber losses acceleration and stoping power. Its just that simple. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exessive camber, yes - but you need more than -3 deg for that starts to happen.

 

Try to help but people with no clue rule the place.

Clinton


Modified by wtfman2 at 10:37 AM 8/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you can show me a lap time of 1:26.56 at Blackhawy from a standing start then we can talk some more about this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

:rollseyes:

Its sad when you have to resort to a pissing match of personal insults to support your (false) argument.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.5 in the front and ride hight is about 1 inch lower than stock with 1/16 of an inch toe out in the front </TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me guess - tire wear is fine. The more camber you can get up front the better.

 

Try to help but people with no clue rule the place.

Clinton


Modified by wtfman2 at 10:37 AM 8/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no that is almost a stock setting you cant even see it. the cars on the street that are just dropped have about 5 degrees neg. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You cant get 5 deg of negative camber without having something seriously bent in the front suspension just by lowering it. No way. If you lower it enough to get -3 degrees you need to be very careful that you're not bottoming out your shocks or slamming UCA's against the frame.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but ohh well mister 5000 post expert you can have it I need to go and live life now</TD></TR></TABLE>

:rollseyes:

Get a clue.

 

I'm running ~-2.3 degrees camber up front and don't have any issues with tire wear. My car is also pretty durn low. Definitely lowered more than an inch. My toe is in spec though.

Edit: Nevermind, I guess you're out living life, so you won't be able to read that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wtfman2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but ohh well mister 5000 post expert you can have it I need to go and live life now
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah Who the heck is this RJ. guy with 5000 or so posts?


J/K

 

Maybe he wasn't talking about Hondas all this time?



I run a 14k spring up front and my car is pretty low and didn't have this knocking noise, however when I swapped in my stock ITR dampers with Tein S-Techs.... I ended up doing more work to swap the stock arms back in.

me = lazy at trying to even attempt a string/toe adjustment.... and woud rather bust more knuckles swapping arms....