I have a 2000 base and i am loosing about 2 quarts of oil every 1500 miles, my lude only has 73000 miles and I dont really drive all that hard. I took it to a shop and they checked for leaks and couldnt find any so they ran a dye through it for a week and then checked it with a blacklight but nothing showed up. The car doesnt seem to be smoking. The check engine light is on for misfire on cylinder 1,2,3,4 and I dont know if the problem is linked together or sperate. The mods I have is Accel wires, AEM cold air intake, AEM fuel rail, excedy clutch, fidenza flywheel, and a cheapo exhaust. Any info on why my car is loosing oil or what is cuasing the misfire codes would be greatly appreciated.... thanks

 

change your spark plugs and wires for the misfire.

and did the shop you took your car to do a compression test?

 

I had a comp test done and they said it was good. I think they said I had 120 per cylinder. Once I change my plugs and wires should the check engine light go off on its own or will I have to pay to have it reset?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a comp test done and they said it was good. I think they said I had 120 per cylinder. Once I change my plugs and wires should the check engine light go off on its own or will I have to pay to have it reset?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if 120 per cyclinder, you need to rebuild it. average is about 190.
plugs and wires have nothing to do with check light, first, u should run the code to see what it is, then go fix it.

 

I had the codes ran and thats what the machine said was misfire on each cylinder. Wouldnt my car be smoking with that much oil loss or if it needed to be rebuilt because its not and it still has good power... Would the AEM fuel rail I added be causing it to throw the misfire codes?

 

120 per cylinder, ouch. The oil is seeping past the rings and getting burnt in the firing process. It's hard to see blue smoke unless someone else is hitting the throttle while you look at the exhaust.

 

you don't have to be able to see the smoke to know its coming out the exhaust. 1500 miles is more than enough time for that much oil to burn off without showing in the axhaust fumes. check your spark plugs and see what they look like. if there's a lot of oil burning in the cylinders, your spark plugs should be really black and grimey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 2000 base and i am loosing about 2 quarts of oil every 1500 miles, my lude only has 73000 miles and I dont really drive all that hard. I took it to a shop and they checked for leaks and couldnt find any so they ran a dye through it for a week and then checked it with a blacklight but nothing showed up. The car doesnt seem to be smoking. The check engine light is on for misfire on cylinder 1,2,3,4 and I dont know if the problem is linked together or sperate. The mods I have is Accel wires, AEM cold air intake, AEM fuel rail, excedy clutch, fidenza flywheel, and a cheapo exhaust. Any info on why my car is loosing oil or what is cuasing the misfire codes would be greatly appreciated.... thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

My lude's '01 w/about 20K miles on it and it burns about 2qts every 3K miles. I think it's normal.

My compression is kinda low on cyl #2, about 135. I think you're better off having even compression, even tho is 120, across the board than one cyl being low like mine. The rest checks out about 185.

I don't sweat it tho. It still pulls hard.

 

maybe the guy that did the compression test didnt have the it at WOT?

my compression test was 220, 215, 220, 225.

 

I guess that I am going to have nother compression done to make sure that it was done correctly the first time. I guess this is what I get for buying a used car. If its the rings about how much should it cost me, and should I go ahead and change over to the type S pistons while im at it? Also, how do I get the check engine light to reset without paying someone to do it? thanks for all the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess that I am going to have nother compression done to make sure that it was done correctly the first time. I guess this is what I get for buying a used car. If its the rings about how much should it cost me, and should I go ahead and change over to the type S pistons while im at it? Also, how do I get the check engine light to reset without paying someone to do it? thanks for all the info</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure how much it will cost to change rings and pistons, but a compression test tool is like $20 at autozone. you should just buy it and do it yourself. its easy. to reset teh ECU just unplug the battery for a minute.