1.)OMFG...i tried putting the new rims on and i grinded new teeth into the damn stud. This was on the driver side. One of the stud broke off along with the new lug nut i bought. GODDAMN. Now im riding on 3 nuts... ...anyways...

2.)i tried changing out the steely i have on the passenger side, after taking out all the lut nuts, the steely WONT BUDGE. I TRIED EVERYTHING!!!! GODDAMN...

Can someone here please help? What is the disk that contains all the studs? Will it cost much? Can i get it from a junkyard? THANKS!!!!!

 

FIRST OFF LAY OFF OF THE CUSSING IF YOU WANT HELP



#3 is where you need to be looking at. I would not get studs from the J/Y I would get them new. They are #21 on the picture


Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 5:39 PM 8/24/2005

 

first off for the stuck steelie.... i would either take a large hammer and hit the back of the wheel with 1 stud still on.... if that does not work get something like a large pipe run it behind the wheel with something to pry against and pry the **** out of it.... that should work...

Buy new studs they are only like $1 each... might as well buy all new ones since you will be back there replacing them.....

 

OMFG...THANKS!!!

 

best of luck removing the hub from the knuckle assem.

I had to press mine out. And that was after they were pressed for new bearings. Can we say OUCH

busted two fingers trying to pry it off myself with proper equip. just did not have the darn press. Time to go buy one if I keep working/buying imports

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawkimport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best of luck removing the hub from the knuckle assem.

I had to press mine out. And that was after they were pressed for new bearings. Can we say OUCH</TD></TR></TABLE>

a press is not necessary...i changed 3 broken wheel studs on my 5th gen with no more than basic hand tools and about 4 hours...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by momstaxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a press is not necessary...i changed 3 broken wheel studs on my 5th gen with no more than basic hand tools and about 4 hours...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah I could do it in 5 mins. You do not have to remove the hub.

 

please explain how to do without removing hub?? hub is too close to spindle to get bolts out from the way I see it....I would definately change mine out if it was easy.

 

Your SOL man, you have to remove the entire front knuckle, press the bearing/spindle assembly out from behind after you pull the 4-12 point bolts, then you can get to those studs. I've had to pull mine twice in 5 years, good luck to ya.

 

I've been told you don't need to pull the hub to replace the studs but when I replaced mine I had the hub off anyway to replace the rotors so I can't say if they can be done that way or not.

As for needing a press, it's not always needed. Remove the axle nut, remove the caliper and bracket, pop the lower balljoint free, then remove the axle from the hub/bearing. Then remove the 4 bolts (with a 6 point socket) on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing. Once those are removed the hub/rotor/bearing assembly should fall away from the knuckle. If it doesn't, try hitting the rotor with a deadblow hammer so you don't damage the surface of the rotor. If that doesn;t work you may need to have it pressed out because it's probably to rusted in there. Thats only if the hub has to be removed to remove the stud.

Like I said though, I've been told you can remove the stud by hammering it out into the area where the caliper bracket is. They say if you remove the caliper bracket you have enough room to get in there and do it. But I've never tried this way so I don't know if it'll work or not.

As for the stuck steelie, hit the back side of the tire, not the rim, with a small sledge. If that don't work hit it with a bigger hammer. Just be carefull it doesn't bounce back at you. Two rims on my sister Wrangler got stuck before and I had to hit it many times with a sledge hammer to get it to pop off. Just make sure you have the car supportted very good and the lug nuts are not off all the way so your rim/tire doesn;'t go flying.

 

I've replaced all my studs on my 95 EX without removing the hub/rotor. It actually takes about 15 mins per wheel.

1. Take off wheel

2. Take off caliper

3. Line up the stud you want to remove to the area where the caliper is mounted. Take a hammer to the stud and it will pop right out.

4. Hammer a new one in from the back of the hub. There is just enough room to put the stud in since you removed the caliper. Another way to pop the stud in is to put the new stud in, put some washers over the stud and then tighten the lugnut over the washers. This will pop the stud in good and tight.

5. Rotate the hub to line up the next stud and repeat.

Viola!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've replaced all my studs on my 95 EX without removing the hub/rotor. It actually takes about 15 mins per wheel.

1. Take off wheel

2. Take off caliper

3. Line up the stud you want to remove to the area where the caliper is mounted. Take a hammer to the stud and it will pop right out.

4. Hammer a new one in from the back of the hub. There is just enough room to put the stud in since you removed the caliper. Another way to pop the stud in is to put the new stud in, put some washers over the stud and then tighten the lugnut over the washers. This will pop the stud in good and tight.

5. Rotate the hub to line up the next stud and repeat.

Viola!</TD></TR></TABLE>

holly hell i'm gonna try that this weekend on my car, how big of a BFH do i need???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jagged4698 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off for the stuck steelie.... </TD></TR></TABLE>


bahahahahahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

holly hell i'm gonna try that this weekend on my car, how big of a BFH do i need???</TD></TR></TABLE>

A normal hammer will do. Hammering out the current stud is the easy part, it's not lodged in as tight as you would think. Hammering in the new stud is the tricky part since there's not much room to work with behind the hub. That's why I suggested using a lugnut over the new stud and tighten it to pop it in. Not sure which years this method is good for, but best of luck with the install!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A normal hammer will do. Hammering out the current stud is the easy part, it's not lodged in as tight as you would think. Hammering in the new stud is the tricky part since there's not much room to work with behind the hub. That's why I suggested using a lugnut over the new stud and tighten it to pop it in. Not sure which years this method is good for, but best of luck with the install! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe all the 90-97 accord's all have the same brake setup (hub over rotor)

 

if u have a problem putting the new stud in, take it and grind part of the head off ,it will give u enough room to put it in

 

Thanks for the replies everyone! Going to autozone tomorrow morning to buy 3 studs for two on the driver side and one on passenger side. Hopefully everything works out, just needa hammer everything!

 

This is one of those parts you can actually get even at the dealership for cheap...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i believe all the 90-97 accord's all have the same brake setup (hub over rotor)</TD></TR></TABLE>
IIRC "Rotor over hub" is describing the other Honda/Acura cars that utilize two Philips screws holding the rotor on, I just say "pressed in bullshit" referring to the 90-97 setup. IMO this is Honda's WORST engineering (for consumers...GREAT for mechanics cuz they charge $300+ in labor only)......

I need to have something clarified.........did Honda use the "two phillips screws" rotors on the pre-90 Accords just to switch back (after the "pressed in bullshit") on the 6th Gen?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've replaced all my studs on my 95 EX without removing the hub/rotor. It actually takes about 15 mins per wheel.

1. Take off wheel

2. Take off caliper

3. Line up the stud you want to remove to the area where the caliper is mounted. Take a hammer to the stud and it will pop right out.

4. Hammer a new one in from the back of the hub. There is just enough room to put the stud in since you removed the caliper. Another way to pop the stud in is to put the new stud in, put some washers over the stud and then tighten the lugnut over the washers. This will pop the stud in good and tight.

5. Rotate the hub to line up the next stud and repeat.

Viola!</TD></TR></TABLE>

This method has been working fine for me. I did have to take the hub off and use a press on another accord (same year/model) though. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've replaced all my studs on my 95 EX without removing the hub/rotor. It actually takes about 15 mins per wheel.

1. Take off wheel

2. Take off caliper

3. Line up the stud you want to remove to the area where the caliper is mounted. Take a hammer to the stud and it will pop right out.

4. Hammer a new one in from the back of the hub. There is just enough room to put the stud in since you removed the caliper. Another way to pop the stud in is to put the new stud in, put some washers over the stud and then tighten the lugnut over the washers. This will pop the stud in good and tight.

5. Rotate the hub to line up the next stud and repeat.

Viola!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly