Hey guys. Since the oil filter sits higher on an SH block is it possible to change it w/o draining the oil? I add ~1 qt. of oil ever 400 miles since im burning so much so I figure its a waste to change it since its all relatively fresh anyway. Not to mention im lazy as hell thanks

 

I pretty sure you can and only a little oil will spill out when you do, but IMO why not change your oil since your already under there, all you do is pull the plug and wait. Changing your oil also lets you see if there ia anything floating around in your engine i.e. metal particles, which would let you know if something is wrong, but to answer your question, yes I believe you can.
-B

 

well my filter is accesed from the top, so I dont have to get under the car. I'd rather spend the $20 on beer rather than oil . Hopefully once I replace my valve seals all will go back to normal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piotrush &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my filter is accesed from the top, so I dont have to get under the car. I'd rather spend the $20 on beer rather than oil . Hopefully once I replace my valve seals all will go back to normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How bout you spend the $$ to fix whatever's eating up the oil?

 

You'll lose a little oil from the filter, but that's all.

 

yeah, it's fine to just change the filter. They are normally changed along with the oil, that's all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomakit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How bout you spend the $$ to fix whatever's eating up the oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha. this is an h22. unless he wants to put in a completely different series of engine, i think just adding oil is more economical

 

Getting the valve seals replaced in 2 weeks. Lets just hope thats the problem. Its definately not the rings, compression is solid and no blow by either.

 

Just FYI: while you very well may be right, it is also very possible to have the rings loose enough to blow oil significantly, yet still hold great compression.

 

So I heard, but I really have no idea what else could be doing it. So I figure I'll do the valve seals firs since they're cheaper and hope for the best. If the problem persists...that'll be yet another $400 mistake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by piotrush &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Getting the valve seals replaced in 2 weeks. Lets just hope thats the problem. Its definately not the rings, compression is solid and no blow by either.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can have good compression test numbers and still have problems with the pistons or the rings. Have a cylinder leakdown test done to narrow down where the problem is before you have any work done. I doubt that the valve seals are the problem. Don't waste $400 when you can simply have a leakdown test done that will tell you where the trouble lies.

 

I did do a leakdown - there was no blow by. Heres the thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1329734

Everyone else is telling me that the valve seals are the next most likely cause of me burning oil.

 

One way to check valve seals on the exhaust side, is to let the car sit for a few days. Pull off the exhaust manifold and look at the valves. They should be a dry sooty black. If they are wet, oil is getting past the seals. Could do the same on intake, but it's harder to pull the intake mani off and the gasket can tear sometimes.

The seals themselves are not that expensive, but there is a lot of labor involved with replacing them. If you are going to pay someone to do it, consider how much oil you could buy with the same $. Might be better (financially) to just add oil periodically. Also, if you are replacing seals, it wouldn't be any more labor to install spring/retainer/cams. Just a thought.