Domani (D16Z6) turbo troubles...
I've got a ZC swapped out of a Domani (Basically a D16Z6 with a factory LSD) in a 94 civic. The car was brought to me for tuning but the customer got a little anxious on the drive over and he blew the headgasket and burned 2 valves. I said no boost!
So I did a mild head port and the customer had his friend (honda tech) reassemble the head to save some $$$. Then I installed a top gasket set and ARP studs.
On startup there is a lot of air coming out the valvecover and it idles very very rough (400rpm or so).
- It is firing in all 4 cylinders.
- Leakdown showed 6%, 6%, 6% and 5%.
- Timing is within a couple of degrees.
- Mixture is (12.5:1) reasonable enough for a stable idle during warmup.
- Oil pressure is about 60PSI
- It's idling at about 13" of Hg
Any suggestions?
-Michael
So I did a mild head port and the customer had his friend (honda tech) reassemble the head to save some $$$. Then I installed a top gasket set and ARP studs.
On startup there is a lot of air coming out the valvecover and it idles very very rough (400rpm or so).
- It is firing in all 4 cylinders.
- Leakdown showed 6%, 6%, 6% and 5%.
- Timing is within a couple of degrees.
- Mixture is (12.5:1) reasonable enough for a stable idle during warmup.
- Oil pressure is about 60PSI
- It's idling at about 13" of Hg
Any suggestions?
-Michael
Something to add here. ECU is now throwing a code 14 (IAC).
I tried swapping IAC's - no improvement. I tried removing, cleaning and testing the IAC. It's 12ohms and clicks properly when power is applied.
IAC may account for the really low idle problem. The idle adjustment screw on the TB is all the way out. Any ideas here?
-Michael
I tried swapping IAC's - no improvement. I tried removing, cleaning and testing the IAC. It's 12ohms and clicks properly when power is applied.
IAC may account for the really low idle problem. The idle adjustment screw on the TB is all the way out. Any ideas here?
-Michael
ECU throwing IACV code will barely run. Good IACV, bad IACV, doesn't matter. Need to get rid of the code - fix wiring, swap ECU/repair driver, disable in code.
I'd check cam timing. Twice. Three times. I've had my Z6 be 2 TEETH off and still run, barely.
I'd check cam timing. Twice. Three times. I've had my Z6 be 2 TEETH off and still run, barely.
Ay Dave!
I checked the cam timing twice. I think if it were off then it wouldn't time with a timing light correctly. It's a JDM P30 chipped. Maybe I will prep a P06 and try that as well.
-Michael
I checked the cam timing twice. I think if it were off then it wouldn't time with a timing light correctly. It's a JDM P30 chipped. Maybe I will prep a P06 and try that as well.
-Michael
i'm betting you have leakage through your valves. did you do a valve job and grind the valve face? how bad were the valves burnt? i'm betting it's the valves not sitting flush
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mamaboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm betting you have leakage through your valves. did you do a valve job and grind the valve face? how bad were the valves burnt? i'm betting it's the valves not sitting flush</TD></TR></TABLE>
One burned valve was literally melted and was replaced. The other wasn't too badly burned. As mentioned above the leakdown numbers were 5-6% loss. I'm fairly cetain this was past the rings as they were not changed.
-Michael
One burned valve was literally melted and was replaced. The other wasn't too badly burned. As mentioned above the leakdown numbers were 5-6% loss. I'm fairly cetain this was past the rings as they were not changed.
-Michael
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