So i've been trying to do this electric trunk actuator mod to my bike that a guy from CBRworld came up with. He sent me the exact same actuator he used. All we did was mount the actuator, and splice onto a tail light for power, that way it only works when the key is activated. This of course being run to a switch.
Now, when i had the switch wired up and tested the wires directly on the battery, it functioned great.
Then, when i spliced onto the license plate light (which i no longer have due to undertail) it's too weak to open the release all the way. At one point i had to literally start the bike and rev up a bunch to get it to work. That kind of made me think it was the battery (8800 miles on original). But why then would it work when i went directly to the battery, but not off the wires. Any ideas? Also, my switch is rated at .3A 50VDC.

 

EDIT: I was smoking crack.. here's a revision.

Get a SPDT relay, aka BOSCH Relay.
Connect pin 85 to ground
86 to positive out from activation switch
87 to positive on battery
87a doesn't go to anything
30 to positive on actuator

Make sure your actuator ground wire goes to solid ground or directly to negative on battery.


Modified by ScareyH22A at 3:21 PM 8/19/2005


Modified by ScareyH22A at 3:22 PM 8/19/2005

 

somebody at radio shack told me the same thing. I'm a little new to relays. If a wire goes from teh pin to my switch, what goes off the other end of the switch?

 

The switch is just a open/close gate, you need to feed power to the relay from the switch to trigger it.

Here's a pointer, the relay needs + on either 85 or 86 and negative on the opposite side to trigger. So, if the relay is closer to your power source, it's probably safer to run a long negative trigger wire from your switch. That way, if they're a short in the longer ran wire by accidental grounding, nothing will actually short out.