Ok. so I just finishing a b17 swap and I am having problems. When I turn the key the cel flashes and stays lit? Car starts but runs like ****? So my first assumption wa the ecu so I tried another obd1 ecu and same problem. So I figure it must be the conversion harness, nope. I put back a obd0 ecu turned the key to the on position and same tuel pump primes and light does not go off? I guess I need to know what to check to figure why my cel will no turn off? help

 

First off, you must be throwing a code if you have a CEL, check which one it is, then we will help you.

Also, stick with the correct B17 ecu and dont change it. I dont know the number for it. For example, with a d16z6 use a p28 ecu.

 

well I am runnuing a hondata p28 with a stock b16 base map. I have cel for iacv and exhaust temp sensor. I tried switching them around with no luck. car ran worse . Kinda at a standstill. Car runs in limp mode. I am at a brick wall. need advice. lol

 

You are in St. Cloud right? If so, I can give you a hand with the wiring as I did the OBD-0 --> OBD-1 Conversion from the ground up in my chassis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4potnick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I am runnuing a hondata p28 with a stock b16 base map. I have cel for iacv and exhaust temp sensor. I tried switching them around with no luck. car ran worse . Kinda at a standstill. Car runs in limp mode. I am at a brick wall. need advice. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then its either wiring or it is wired correctly, but there is no continuity in the wires or a bad connectino somewhere.

 

yup. I had an b18b in the hatch no problem. Motor blew, swapped in a b17 now problems? Don't know which way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are in St. Cloud right? If so, I can give you a hand with the wiring as I did the OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1 Conversion from the ground up in my chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>blown hatch did my harness. worked in revious car. What all stops the ecu light from turning off after you turn the key? pump primes, relay is brand new and works, and car goes into limp mode and barely drives. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are in St. Cloud right? If so, I can give you a hand with the wiring as I did the OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1 Conversion from the ground up in my chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>blown hatch did my harness. worked with previous engine in same car. What all stops the ecu light from turning off after you turn the key? pump primes, relay is brand new and works, and car goes into limp mode and barely drives. lol

 

are you checking codes with the orange and blue wire?
Rywire is kinda like JKOBD tech support, Jason aka blown90hatch is very busy lately. Give us a call!
Dr_latino's good too

 

yeah. I sent jason an im. haven't even checked yet. you guy sell his product? I'll give you a call tomorrow

 

Well we fixed the idle problem today - 440cc Injectors on a stock ECU - now we just need to find you one more 240cc Injector and it'll run, then it'll be time to hack away at the two sensors.

 

yup. does anyone have an odb1 injector. stilll have an cel that doesn't turn off when you turn the key to the on position. the cel shouldi turn off when the key on and the car is not running? fixing the injector problem is a start, but that is not my main issue. could a bad ground make it so that the cel won't turn off. I have a cel for iacv and exhaust coolant sensor. help anyone?

 

HELP.