P28 or P75 ECU for a Crome tune?
I have an allmotor LS that I am getting ready to have tuned very soon. This is the first time i am using Crome to tune, so hopefully it will yield better results than that damn SAFC I have been using.
My question though is, what ECU should I use to tune and then use after the tune. I have read where several ppl have had problems using a P75 on Crome and Uberdata. The P75 doesnt like to datalog and the A/F ratios change after tuning or the ECU doesnt function like it should.
I have both a P28 and a P75 that I have socketed and ready for use, but which one should I use. If I disable the knock sensor and the Vtec sensors, shouldn't I be able to use the P28 ECU?
My question though is, what ECU should I use to tune and then use after the tune. I have read where several ppl have had problems using a P75 on Crome and Uberdata. The P75 doesnt like to datalog and the A/F ratios change after tuning or the ECU doesnt function like it should.
I have both a P28 and a P75 that I have socketed and ready for use, but which one should I use. If I disable the knock sensor and the Vtec sensors, shouldn't I be able to use the P28 ECU?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an allmotor LS that I am getting ready to have tuned very soon. This is the first time i am using Crome to tune, so hopefully it will yield better results than that damn SAFC I have been using.
My question though is, what ECU should I use to tune and then use after the tune. I have read where several ppl have had problems using a P75 on Crome and Uberdata. The P75 doesnt like to datalog and the A/F ratios change after tuning or the ECU doesnt function like it should.
I have both a P28 and a P75 that I have socketed and ready for use, but which one should I use. If I disable the knock sensor and the Vtec sensors, shouldn't I be able to use the P28 ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you will be able to use the p28 ecu with a non-vtec eprom.
I would recommend you try using crome.
Use a p30 basemap, disable vtec, eld, etc...
My question though is, what ECU should I use to tune and then use after the tune. I have read where several ppl have had problems using a P75 on Crome and Uberdata. The P75 doesnt like to datalog and the A/F ratios change after tuning or the ECU doesnt function like it should.
I have both a P28 and a P75 that I have socketed and ready for use, but which one should I use. If I disable the knock sensor and the Vtec sensors, shouldn't I be able to use the P28 ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you will be able to use the p28 ecu with a non-vtec eprom.
I would recommend you try using crome.
Use a p30 basemap, disable vtec, eld, etc...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, you will be able to use the p28 ecu with a non-vtec eprom.
I would recommend you try using crome.
Use a p30 basemap, disable vtec, eld, etc...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why disable eld?
Yes, you will be able to use the p28 ecu with a non-vtec eprom.
I would recommend you try using crome.
Use a p30 basemap, disable vtec, eld, etc...
</TD></TR></TABLE>why disable eld?
P28 for sure. gives u the expandibilty of tuning other peoples cars with VTEC motors.
also when u dyno tune the car, make a 1st pass with the setup u have now (with the tuned SAFC settings, just to make see where the HP is at and verify that ur still making 170whp) then set everything to zero on the SAFC or remove it and start tuning the car with CROME.
also when u dyno tune the car, make a 1st pass with the setup u have now (with the tuned SAFC settings, just to make see where the HP is at and verify that ur still making 170whp) then set everything to zero on the SAFC or remove it and start tuning the car with CROME.
Use the P28, throw the hack in the garbage (SAFC) and if needed go and get a TTL to serial converter or USB ... and log that way through the stock computer. As for the other suggestion of turning off the knock P28s hhave no knock board...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHFAST94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the P28, throw the hack in the garbage (SAFC) and if needed go and get a TTL to serial converter or USB ... and log that way through the stock computer. As for the other suggestion of turning off the knock P28s hhave no knock board...
</TD></TR></TABLE>I thought B16's have a knock sensor, as well as the D16Z6 that originally was in the car? I have a plug for the knock sensor, but not one on the block.
Yes I have the TTL to USB cable, thanx to Jim Truett who hooked me up. Will be soldering it in this week.
Also can I use a chip burner to read the program on the chip in my ECU now? It is a flash EPROM. I just thought that I could copy that to a file for Crome before the tune. Oh well if I have to start from Ground zero then it will just take longer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought B16's have a knock sensor, as well as the D16Z6 that originally was in the car? I have a plug for the knock sensor, but not one on the block.
Yes I have the TTL to USB cable, thanx to Jim Truett who hooked me up. Will be soldering it in this week.
Also can I use a chip burner to read the program on the chip in my ECU now? It is a flash EPROM. I just thought that I could copy that to a file for Crome before the tune. Oh well if I have to start from Ground zero then it will just take longer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
B16's DO have knock sensors.. P28's however do NOT have knock boards. You can add them, but they don't have them stock. Z6's never had knock sensors either. The Y8 does.
You should be able to read the chip just fine. Its most likely a 27c256. Most people like to use those because they are cheap. I would recommend getting a 29c256 as its rewritable through the software and doesn't need a UV eraser to clear. You should also get yourself a romulator and you MUST get a wideband... unless you like to tune "in the dark"..
I thought B16's have a knock sensor, as well as the D16Z6 that originally was in the car? I have a plug for the knock sensor, but not one on the block.
Yes I have the TTL to USB cable, thanx to Jim Truett who hooked me up. Will be soldering it in this week.
Also can I use a chip burner to read the program on the chip in my ECU now? It is a flash EPROM. I just thought that I could copy that to a file for Crome before the tune. Oh well if I have to start from Ground zero then it will just take longer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>B16's DO have knock sensors.. P28's however do NOT have knock boards. You can add them, but they don't have them stock. Z6's never had knock sensors either. The Y8 does.
You should be able to read the chip just fine. Its most likely a 27c256. Most people like to use those because they are cheap. I would recommend getting a 29c256 as its rewritable through the software and doesn't need a UV eraser to clear. You should also get yourself a romulator and you MUST get a wideband... unless you like to tune "in the dark"..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B16's DO have knock sensors.. P28's however do NOT have knock boards. You can add them, but they don't have them stock. Z6's never had knock sensors either. The Y8 does.
You should be able to read the chip just fine. Its most likely a 27c256. Most people like to use those because they are cheap. I would recommend getting a 29c256 as its rewritable through the software and doesn't need a UV eraser to clear. You should also get yourself a romulator and you MUST get a wideband... unless you like to tune "in the dark".. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have 3 Atmel AT29C256 EEPROM's. I was just talking about teh pre-programed chip I had bought long ago that is in my P75 currently.
I do not know why ppl just dont use the AT29C256. They are CHEAP($6 ea).
I dont want a romulator, I think I am going to get an emulator and a chip burner.
I will be ordering my wideband this week, but still debating PLX or Innovative. I think I am leaning toward teh PLX.
On this current tune coming up. I will not be doing it. I will leave it to the pros, however I will start tuning my other project for practice.
B16's DO have knock sensors.. P28's however do NOT have knock boards. You can add them, but they don't have them stock. Z6's never had knock sensors either. The Y8 does.
You should be able to read the chip just fine. Its most likely a 27c256. Most people like to use those because they are cheap. I would recommend getting a 29c256 as its rewritable through the software and doesn't need a UV eraser to clear. You should also get yourself a romulator and you MUST get a wideband... unless you like to tune "in the dark".. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have 3 Atmel AT29C256 EEPROM's. I was just talking about teh pre-programed chip I had bought long ago that is in my P75 currently.
I do not know why ppl just dont use the AT29C256. They are CHEAP($6 ea).
I dont want a romulator, I think I am going to get an emulator and a chip burner.
I will be ordering my wideband this week, but still debating PLX or Innovative. I think I am leaning toward teh PLX.
On this current tune coming up. I will not be doing it. I will leave it to the pros, however I will start tuning my other project for practice.
man, u know whats even a cheaper solution to the AT29C256 chips, are the sst27SF512 EEPROM chips. they are electronically erasable like the at29c256 and work great. i use them all the time. only thing u need to do is change the chip start offset to 8000. these chips run about $1.45 each! cant beat it
go for the PLX for sure!
also with most chip burners, u have the option to read chips. but the chip u have in ur car right now is probably some random ebay chip made from skunk2,mugen,jun,etc. u can read the chip but u cant view it in CROME. theres a way to do it i think, but u cant just read the chip and open it up in crome,uberdata,etc
go for the PLX for sure!
also with most chip burners, u have the option to read chips. but the chip u have in ur car right now is probably some random ebay chip made from skunk2,mugen,jun,etc. u can read the chip but u cant view it in CROME. theres a way to do it i think, but u cant just read the chip and open it up in crome,uberdata,etc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man, u know whats even a cheaper solution to the AT29C256 chips, are the sst27SF512 EEPROM chips. they are electronically erasable like the at29c256 and work great. i use them all the time. only thing u need to do is change the chip start offset to 8000. these chips run about $1.45 each! cant beat it
go for the PLX for sure!
also with most chip burners, u have the option to read chips. but the chip u have in ur car right now is probably some random ebay chip made from skunk2,mugen,jun,etc. u can read the chip but u cant view it in CROME. theres a way to do it i think, but u cant just read the chip and open it up in crome,uberdata,etc</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanx.
go for the PLX for sure!
also with most chip burners, u have the option to read chips. but the chip u have in ur car right now is probably some random ebay chip made from skunk2,mugen,jun,etc. u can read the chip but u cant view it in CROME. theres a way to do it i think, but u cant just read the chip and open it up in crome,uberdata,etc</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanx.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchinprogress »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rick check email</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where you been at? I aint heard from you in a while.
Where you been at? I aint heard from you in a while.
p75 can be converted to vtec.
theres no knock board on p28
does PLX have a programmable output or is it 0-5 volts only?
innovative have adjustable output for wideband and second output narrowband so you can still have it hooked up to stock o2 input and disable o2 heater error
or use d14 for wideband input and set 0v-10afr and 3.7volt 17afr
theres no knock board on p28
does PLX have a programmable output or is it 0-5 volts only?
innovative have adjustable output for wideband and second output narrowband so you can still have it hooked up to stock o2 input and disable o2 heater error
or use d14 for wideband input and set 0v-10afr and 3.7volt 17afr
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