After punching a hole in the block of my B18B, I have to figure out some kind of affordable engine package to finish out the season. My car is a 2000 Si coupe and the series I run in allows any block. I was running a B18c1 which I changed for a B18b when it spun a bearing. The head is from an SiR, it's ported, flowed, has oem ITR cams, titanium retainers and oem ITR valve srpings with 0.5 mm over Supertech valves. I'm allowed to run a B20 under the rules, but I'll have to add 100 pounds of weight to the car. I can have labour done pretty cheap and I'm trying to figure out what to do to have an economical way to finish up the season. I don't care so much about big hp (never had it, won't miss it), so here are some options:

-just buy a used ITR block, if I can find one... there's one I'm trying to buy around 900-1000$, install it as is
-take my old B18c1 block, buy new OEM pistons and rods, balance the crank, machine the cylinder walls and reinstall it.
-Buy a B18b with low mileage, install as is
-Buy a B20z with low mileage, install as is
-Buy a B20b for 650$, put B20z pistons after machining, leave the rest stock
-Pay a friend 500$ to borrow her B18c5 for the rest of the season (cheap option, but I still have no engine in the end)
-Buy a high mileage B18a or B18b and "refresh" it
-anything else? B16 is not worth it because I will never get down to the minumum weight


Modified by Civic44 at 2:48 PM 8/12/2005

 

If...<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I can have labour done pretty cheap </TD></TR></TABLE>

then I vote for this one:

-take my old B18c1 block, buy new OEM pistons and rods, balance the crank, machine the cylinder walls and reinstall it.

Or find some used internals to make it cheaper.

 

hi.

sorry to hear about your recent engine probs....

i believe that you should stay away from the b20 blocks; most of the guys here on the east coast have given up on the b20 (we have to run stock bottom ends; no aftermarket rods or pistons allowed). i remember lots of the b20s cracking the cylinders last year; i think all the guys who were running them are running 1.8s now....

if you go lsvtec, you will probably have to check the bottom end bearings and rods and rod bolts fairly frequently.

if you want to go for max reliability, i think i'd go with a b18c1 or c5. they seem to be really sturdy and last well, especially if you are planning on running honda oem cams.....

good luck with your buildup!

 

I have my H2 ITR block for sale:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1319515

 

I just checked out your ad, Adam. I don't know much about engines, but is the list of parts that come with your block complete? Would I have to buy anything else (I guess an oilpan, unless the B18C1 part fits)? Is everything there to just have my mechanic assemble it? Thanks.

 

H22 Swap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the series I run in allows any block</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I kept the other parts, Oil Pan, Pick-Up, Tray, Oil Pump, Water Pump, etc. B18C parts will fit fine. It needs 40 over rings and then just assembly.

 

PM Rambler, I believe his motor is for sale. B18c5 with headwork. motor puts 200 to the wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H22 Swap
</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what I was going to suggest..

sell your existing head to buy goodies for it..

 

Rebuild your old B18C1 block, throw some ITR pistons in it, jdm ones if you can, 11:1 i think.

 

Whats the weight penalty for a 2.2L H series engine?

 

I'd refresh your current B18C1 and put JDM ITR pistons to bump the compression slightly to take advantage of your cylinder head mods. The alternative is to get PR3 pistons from this retard:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...75188
(who likes to list everything as "JDM", when it's really USDM spec)

Details of his dealings, has good product, just doesn't know what he is selling:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1315508

To play with your compression ratio, you can check it here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php

This is of course if your block is still within service limits that will enable you to fit OEM oversized pistons.

I'm just guessing you will still be racing next year.... at least this option gives you a "brand new" motor and not something used that you might have to build again shortly after in the off season.

Bonne Chance!....I really enjoy reading about your experiences on track.... hope you get the car running strong and trouble free!


Modified by RagingAngel at 1:11 AM 8/14/2005

 

Thanks for the advice all. The weight penalty for the H22 is the same as for the B20, K20 or K24... it's 150 pounds higher than the minimum for the B18.

I'll have the crank from the B18C1 looked at to see if it's still usable, which will doubtless help me decide whther to rebuild it or not.